Brian H

Phillips recently changed the ability of third party devices working with HUE. Not sure if this will impact what is being done by the members here. http://www.extremetech.com/electronics/219450-philips-updates-hue-introduces-lightbulb-drm

I have recently seen reports of the modified sine wave UPS units. Causing big issues with the newer computers with Active Power Factor Correction power supplies. Like instantly shutting down when going into battery backup on a power loss.

If the 200mA supply was close to its rating. There is a possibility it momentarily dropped out as the UPS switched to battery. The UPS may have a stepped modified sine wave output also. That could have played into the observations you had.

Over the last few weeks. I have received a few exclusive for email registered customer sales offers. Yesterday my luck was not too good. Ordered a few of the refurbished On/Off module at $39.99 and the Alert Module. Last night I found a limited time 20% off email for two or more of the new On Off Modules. 20% off the 49.99 new price is $39.992 rounded down to $39.99. Of course the order was processed and on its way. When I read the email offer. Refurbished don't have the I am not happy 30 day return privilege. Just a 30 day DOA exchange warranty.

I suspect the old 300mA minimum current specification. Is low for a ISY994i. Especially if it has any added hardware. Like the Z-Wave board. My ISY994i and the one sold by Smarthome as an option when using a 2413S. Is 100-240 VAC 50/60 Cycles Input. 5 Volts 1 Amp output.

Maybe someday Smartlabs will release the Insteon Firmware UDI needs to make their own PLM. As I understand that is the hold up right now.

I don't believe a KPL dimmer can be used to replace a KPL relay. Using the replace with choice. One is an On Off device the other one dims. The replacement has to be close enough hardware wise for the replace with to show. I was going to use one of the new 2635-222 On Off modules in place of an old 2456S3 ApplianceLinc. The replace option was not available. As the new one was not close enough feature wise.

I didn't have any of the 2476ST models but do remember them also being reported as having no Air Gap switches. As do my early 2476S and I believe also the old Icon models.

If you had any of the old hardware 2476S Switchlincs. They do not have the Air Gap Switch. Pulling out the set button will just break it off. They also have a completely different Factory Reset procedure. Later hardware revision 2476S module did have the Air Gap Switch.

Yes C1 was the 100uF/6.3V one you where trying to find a replacement for. I temporarily jumped F1s pads so I could measure the unregulated 12 volts on one I was baking in after the capacitor changes. As F1 is the unregulated 12 volt feed to the serial port connector. So far I have not had large globs of glue on the LED. On mine I was able to gently pry it free from the side of the case and remove the PCB. Then gently cut off the glue blob on the LED off. Now if anyone has a better way to remove the glue. I would also like some tips. I have a 2456S3 recent hardware ApplianceLinc with a giant blob of glue holding the LED and covering a possibly bad 30 volt zener diode or shorted cap in the 30 volt supply.

Serial PLM Daughter Board. Parts list says 100uF/6.3 volts. This is the older 2412S Developers Manual but the Daughter Board is similar . Serial daughter Board Page 57 & 58. U3 EEPROM is now a 24FC64. No F1 0.4A fuse. Position not occupied. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf The capacitor is on the 5 volt side of a 5 volt regulator. I measured one and I believe it has the 2.5MM pin spacing. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UTT0J101MDD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22awqI6nzE%2fsTpqgrp1y9nV0%3d

The instruction on the support page will not show the older magnetic switch with both the Red and Green {NC or NO}. The present kit does not have the same switch in it. I looked myself for the older manual, for a friend and did not find it.

Battery devices are in a power saving mode. A query will not work. This new feature waits until the device wakes up. Like detecting a motion or door opens. Then while it is awake. Starts to write to it. If memory serves me many of them have a way for the program to keep it awake until turned back to power saving.

Thank you for the information.

Wouldn't the 2843-222 Open Closed Sensor or 2854-222 Hidden Door sensor also wake up if you open the door?

In the Tools Tab, Diagnostics. What does the Show PLM Info/Status show? Connected or safe mode? Is the PLM a 2413S and how old is it? They have a known issue with their power supply failing after two years. When you cycled the power. Make sure the PLM is powered up first and has initialized. Then power up the ISY-99i.

The 6.8uF 250 Volt. Is on the Line Powered DC feed to the switching supply. It will probably be fine.

You can try a power tap so you can plug both the LED lights and a plug with the resistor in it. On the output of the module. As pointed out other loads like an old phone charger or a 4 watt incandescent night light bulb also works. If the LED lights have a plug with a outlet on the back. So another LED string could be added. The plug with the resistor could be used there. As long as it is not exposed to the elements.

Smarthome sells a eight button face plate and button set. For the conversion. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401wh8-8-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-white.html

At one time they had a three way kit. One of the two had no load output and they where linked at the factory. Biggest downside was the kit was only a few bucks less than two full featured ones. If memory serves me.

X10 also had a Companion Switch. That controlled the main switch with the load control. When they started Insteon. The companion-slave method was discontinued. Now you cross link the two switches and one probably has its load wire capped off.

Sorry that model and any of the other V1 models are strictly X10. The Insteon models used the SAME basic model names. So in the beginning when both where being sold. V1 was the X10 only. V2 was the Insteon version that could could do both Insteon and X10. Example a 2001SHL was an AppliancLinc V1 and a 2456S3 is an ApplianceLinc V2. After years of no longer selling the older X10 ones. The V2 at the end of the model name was removed. The switch in the photo is just a slave switch. To control a V1 Togglelinc. That has the dimmer circuitry in it. When used in a three way switch setup. 2389_web.pdf

I have seen a Cree phone number mentioned on a lighting related forum. Though I don't have it at the moment. I have had Cree bulbs go bad. Three of of six of my 60 watt, A Shell, high CRI ones have died. All the same way. Started to occasionally pulse off and now dead. Though I can see arcing inside them. I have some older 60 watt ones where the shells fell off and started also acting like the ones above. I found the spring contacts they used to couple the LED array to the driver was arcing. Push on it with an insulated plastic tool and it went back On. Side note. The LEDs are in series and the normally running voltage on the array is 220VDC. 280VDC open

Some of my 2476S SwitchLincs and 2876S Icons had the intermittent Tact Switch issues. Push the local paddle. Hear the tact switch click. No action on the load. Smarthome said we didn't know how to use them correctly or wired them incorrectly. Finally gave us a seven year warranty on the known hardware versions with the problem. Mine are also old enough [Hardware 2.1 firmware v.28] to not have an Air Gap Switch. Pull the set button out and it breaks off. There is a completely different Factory Reset Sequence. Mine do remember their state of On or Off at power loss. I have an original 2456D LampLinc from a early developers group kit. Firmware .20. It does not respond to an All On or All Off command. Yes the same feature they are again removing. The 2456S3 ApplainceLinc and 2856S Icon On/Off had the remember feature. Then two firmware version always Off. Then again remember state. I have found the list helpful but also have not seen much added information lately.

Glad the resistor helped.