Brian H

I did a web search for 2842-292 As other have pointed out Retail Version. Amazon, Home Depot and many other carry the 2842-292 stock number.

The original garage door kit from Smarthome did have the NC/NO magnetic switch in it. That they later changed to a lower cost one. Here is what use to be in the kit. http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html As pointed out. Other vendors may also have such switches.

Thank you for the information I will have to add the fuses value a dn part number to my notes.

This is from a V1.1 Date Code 1044 SynchroLinc. I have no idea if anything is changed in the present units. If it is completely dead. There is a 5mmx20mm fuse with leads. Covered In shrink tube. Connected in series from the AC Line Input prong to the PCB AC Line Input Pad. I can't read its value. As it is covered with shrink tubing. The actual load current is read on the Neutral feed to the outlet socket. White wire from the Neutral connection on the input side of the PCB to a fairly heavy PCB run near the output. Then a heavy shunt is soldered to the PCB where the input white jumper wire is. On the other side of the shunt is another heavy PCB run, To a short white wire jumper connected to the output socket.

The CT-800 mentioned in this how to monitor an appliance should trigger an IOLinc if you want to go that route. There is also a version of the sensor that has a snap opening so you don't have to remove a wire to slip it over. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

Sorry if I confused things by calling out the C13 silkscreen number for an older artwork PCB. Where it is just hanging off the board. In mine the bare leads are awful long. If I did one. I would use some insulating tubing on mine to make me feel better. My old electronic repair experiences showing up.

I tried this and it worked. If you can't find an easier way. You can manually link it to a module in the Administrative Console. Then do a Show Device Links Table for the module you linked it to. The RemoteLincs ID will show as a mismatch. Then it would be best to do a manual unlink from the module you added it to. So its ID is removed from the module. If you don't want to mess with a module in use now and have a unused module. You could also add the unused test module to the Administrative Console. Then manually link the test module to the RemoteLinc Then do the Show Device Links Table. To see the ID. Then just remove the added test module from the Administrative Console and Factory Reset both the test module and Remotelinc. I did the same thing with a Smarthome "X10SC503" controller that was a short lived module. Basically a 2430 ControLinc II with the Insteon Labels removed and sold for X10 use. Though the firmware was never changed. So it was a 2430 in disguise.

C13 is the 10uF/35 volt that is not silk screened on the PCB as it was a engineering change. To go from a simple single filter capacitor on the +12 volt supply to a Pi filter on the +12 volt supply. C13 and the coil hanging off the PCB where added to the PCB layout on a later revision. There should also be a PCB run cut {maybe under a part and not easily seen} so the added components are now part of the +12 volt supply. The red fly wire is the output of the Pi network and connected to where the +12 volts is supplying power to the unit.

The two 10uF/35 Volt (C7 and C13) should be a low ESR designed to be used on a switching power supply. For best results.

The 2413S PLM in you photos. Looks like a Hardware Revision 1.0 where the PCB was originally made with no Pi filter just one capacitor. In the unregulated 12 volt supply. That was updated to add the extra cap and coil. For the Pi type filter. I have two of them but have not tried rebuilding them yet. I know a forum member was going to do one but I don't know if they did it yet. The capacitors should be the same values as found on the later Rev. 1.5 and above models. One of mine had 10uF/25V one for C7 and C13 but the 35V is better and in most of them anyway.

It is Dual Band even if the box doesn't specifically say it is. The sales page shows both Insteon RF and Power Line signal specifications. If you have not done it yet. Download the full users manuals from the sales page manual links. It will explain how to do the Beacon {communications} tests between Dual Band Modules when installed and other things like a Factory Reset if you ever have to do it.

Though the Start Linking choice in the Link Management Tab, can be used. I found the Add New Insteon Device choice to work better. Using the Auto Discover method. Inputting the modules six digit ID and giving it a useful name. Worked better.

If you are using Windows 10 64 Bit version. I have seen an independent X10 software programmer. Report some of his programs started acting strange with 64 bit and the last few updates. Something about being over protective of some folders.

The PLM only uses three signals. Some of the other pins are TTL level send and receive. So you may have to do a custom pin out as there are no RS232 hand shake signals. Only Send, Receive and common. The Quick Guide in the 2413S box gives the pin outs. The Insteon Modem Developers Guide also gives the pin outs but is not up to date. The schematics are still for the older single band 2412S. Pin 2 on the Serial Daughter Board RJ45 connector is no longer unregulated +12 volts. The fuse is not on the board. The EEPROM Link Database chip is now a 24FC64. The main PCB is the old 2412 power transformer model not the completely different switching power supply with RF main board in the 2413.

PLM Developers Guide: Pages 26-27 are X10 related. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf http://cache.insteon.com/developer/developer-guide-022009-en.pdf

The IR Firmware upgrade module has to be purchased. I looked at the Purchase Module Tab in the Administrative Console. It is $40. Not sure if UDI can transfer the firmware module from the original units UUID to the one you instilled the IR Board into.

If the EZFlora is around two years old and built on the base 2413 Dual Band PLM Main Board with their custom daughter board. It could be suffering from the known power supply issues.

The ISY994i needs a serial PLM to work. At the present time there is no European PLM that will work on 220 volts 50 Cycles and the different Insteon RF frequency used in Europe. I have seen mention of some modified European HUB's to make them a PLM. I have no further information on who did it or how it is done.

Yes the serial connection on their model goes to the same serial jack on the ISY Controller. It has the same base 2413 PLM main board in it. So it is only as reliable as the Smarthome 2413S PLM. I have seen no reports of the serial daughter boards in either model being an issue.

The Smartenit Insteon Serial PLM is built on the same 2413 base main PCB they buy from Smartlabs. With their own serial port daughter board. That can have options like RS-485 I/O or USB So if you need to purchase a new one. You might as well just get another Smarthome one as both have the same base main PCB. The Smartenit has a one year warranty. The Smarthome a two year warranty. The latest 2413S with a hardware revision of 2.0 and above. Are supposed to have the updated power supply components for better reliability. As the older ones had a reputation of failing shortly over the two year warranty period. Smartenit sales page indicates it is Functionally equivalent to a Smarthome 2413S PLM

Memory and Error flashing is a network communications problem. As you suspected. You may want to look at the wiki hints on this issue. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#Front_Panel_LEDs.2FLights

On the two ones with no LEDs Try a power cycle reset. By pulling the Air gap Switch out for ten seconds. Then push the Air Gap switch back to its normal position. Using care you don't push it all the way in. When you replaced the PLM did you power down the ISY controller and the old PLM? Power up the new PLM first so it can totally initialize. Power Up the ISY controller so it detects the new PLM's ID. Then do a Restore Modem (PLM)? You did not use the Delete Modem (PLM) at any point?

I have seen duplicate six digit Insteon ID's for the special Developers Group Hardware Kits. All the PLM's where AA.AA.AA All the Lamplincs where 11.11.11 A few of the developers with more than one kit being used by a few employees. At the same time. Caused all kinds of strange happenings when one developer caused another developers kit to go on, off brighten or dim. Probably would also get strange answers if the LampLinc was asked its status.

Yes after the new one is added. When you click on the bad one. The replace with will give you a list of modules of the same type including the new one added. Pick the new ones name and it will replace all the places the old one was. The original bad one should no longer be in the Administrative Console or any scenes it was in. The new one should have replaced it. If the old switch had any battery operated devices like a Motion Sensor controlling it. It would have to be woken up for the new switches ID to be written to it.

If memory serves me. Some of the RemoteLinc 1's. Had an issue with not going into power saving mode and killing the batteries in a relatively short time. Not sure if I can find any archived data on how to get it back to power saving after I believe thirty seconds.