Brian H

The IR adds a small PCB that plugs into a header on the main board and can be added later if someone wanted to add IR. I did that on my ISY99i.

I replaced the four because Samcon and Fujicon brands are both on the list of "Crap Caps" on the Bad caps forums. I would have done the YIHCON high voltage side cap if I could have found one easily. I kept the new one in service as it had later firmware and if it dies in less than two years Smarhome can replace it. I consider it OK to keep as a spare but not tested enough to say 100% fixed.

Thank you for that information. The newer 2456S3 hardware version 4 and above. Have a snubber network across the relay contacts. It also passes some current through the load when it is Off.

I replaced the four capacitors on the low voltage side of the power supply. With a good quality low ESR type capacitor. I feel it was the two directly on the unregulated +12 volts supply as the voltage was very low and went up and down as it warmed up. The other two where on small linear regulators and probably didn't have to be Low ESR. I temporarily jumped the F1 on the serial daughter card {like the old 2412S} so I could read the unregulated +12 volts and let it run cover On. Voltage was steady for two weeks of tests and I did use it for some HouleLinc tests. Also tested it with DockLight Scripting and BusyRats PLM Test program. Was not stressed with lots of duties. Now in the box with F1 removed as a tentative spare if needed.

I am glad to see there is steady progress on the UDI Developed PLM. My recently purchased 2413S should last long enough for yours to be tested, production up to speed and released.

If your USB PLM does not work with HouseLinc. It maybe too old. Early 417 Link Database hardware versions of the PLM are not supported.

Is the LED on the side PLM On?

The XPCP has a tuned coupling transformer in it. Depending on how narrow a frequency it couples. It may not be as efficient with the 131.65 KHz Insteon frequency as the 120 KHz X10 frequency. I would suspect it would work fine.

Some of the sales pages for the Dual Band Devices specify an open air distance with no obstructions. I have seen some say 150 feet, others greater than one hundred feet and some none specified.

2414S? That is the very old obsolete Power Line Controller and is not compatible with any Insteon Module using I2 or I2CS Protocol. Lack of proper handling of Extended Insteon Messages was part of the problem. It did have the ability to have programs downloaded into it and run stand alone. Also had its own RTC chip in it. I still have a few left over from the early Developers Kit and purchased ones. I took the RTC batteries out as they where going flat and I didn't need battery juice inside my units. There is a chart on the 2413S sales page showing the differences. http://www.smarthome.com/2413S/PowerLinc-Modem-INSTEON-Serial-Interface-Dual-Band/p.aspx The two basic PLMs where 2412S and the present 2413S.

You should update the firmware to the latest. 4.0.5 was released before the devices where being sold. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13761-release-428-rc3-is-now-available/

It is an add on firmware module In the Administrative Console Help Tab. Purchase Modules. It should open up a new browser page and tell you what you have and what you can purchase if it is not yet installed.

The only problem with the X10 XPPF is it is rated at five amps. If you push it close to the five amps. The internal coils get quite warm and start to smell hot.

Good to read you found and fixed the problem.

If both setups are completely independent. They should work. Problems happen if you have Insteon devices common to both controllers. Each one does not know the other system exists and can overwrite links in the modules. Not known to the controller.

Momentarily jump the two together. If it works the kit should work. If it works and you have a intelligent display. It may reset the display. If power and data are both on the same two wires.

There is only two wires from the RF remote connected to the fan motor?

That is the "ISY Finder" and is normal for it to be open and behind the admin window.

4.0.5 is the latest Official Release. 4.2.5 Is the latest Release Candidate. I would expect a later Official Release would be close.

Reversing the Line and Neutral normally will not reverse the fans motors direction. If the fan motor uses a motor run capacitor you maybe able to reverse it but it would require rewiring the motor to do it. What make and model fan is it. Maybe we can find more information on it. It does not have a remote that can reverse it?

I am not sure if it was posted here or on the Smarthome Forums. I know someone rigged up some relays {maybe used I/OLincs} to do the reversing but as LeeG said. Not easy to do.

Depends on the switch being sold in electronic terms or security system terms. In electronic component terms the state at rest with no magnet. In security system terms the state when next to the magnet and the zone is not violated. So in electronic component terms. A NC switch is a security zone NO switch. Because it is open when the magnet is next to it and the zone viloates when the switch closed to it normal resting state NC with no magnet is next to it. This can be very confusing. As some vendors use electroninc component terms and some if it is for a NC or NO Security Zone use. In my electronics line of work. I have to always think. Is the vendor a electronic component sales site or a security sales site.

Since others reviweing the bulb have seen flickering. It could be a touchy bulb. They also redesigned the bulb and its specfications changed. It is possible Smarthome does not have any reports of the later ones having any flickering.

I have my ISY994i and computing equipement on an UPS and the PLM in the pass through outlet on a FilterLinc. UPS is on the filtered outlet. Never had a problem with short power losses and the system working OK. In long outages where I have turned the UPS off. Like with Super Storm Sandy. I did find it was best to power up the PLM first then the ISY994i. Most times it didn't matter but one time it went into safe mode. Maybe with a 33 hour outtage your UPS shut down and added to the timing whan powered back up.

I have seen many LED bulb brands do exactly what you describe. On an Insteon, X10 or cheap manual rotory dimmer. While adjusting the light level they pulse or flicker as the new level is set. I doubt the ISY in the picture would be an issue. A Insteon Dim or Brighten command from a HUB or ISY controller is the same basic command. After looking at the Reviews for the bulb. A few other purchasers also reported choppy or steped light levels when brightened or dimmed. So you are not alone in your observations.