Brian H

If it is in the pump mode for output 8. You could use the Smartenit Utility to set output 8 to a zone. If you don't have a spare PLM to use with the utility. Some have temporarily used the PLM in the ISY system to access it. That would most likely mean powering down the system and using the serial cable packed in the PLM box. That many folks unfortunately discard with the box.

Older thread. There is now a Heat Pump version of the Insteon Thermostat. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2732-242-thermostat-for-heat-pump.html

I don't think the old 2440 can handle some of the new modules. Not sure if it is a protocol thing. I also can't link one to my Alert Module. That has no issues linking to a TriggerLinc. Too close to my PLM is a known issue seen by many here. In my case other end of house with a 2443 Access Point processing the Insteon RF and passing it by power line to the PLM seems to be OK.

Did you follow the proper procedure when replacing a PLM? Power down the ISY994i and old 2413S PLM. Connect the serial cable from the ISY994i to the new PLM. Power up the PLM and allow it to fully boot up. Power up the ISY994i and allow it to fully boot up. Use the Restore PLM choice it the File Menu so the new PLM ID is written into the Insteon modules in your system.

3 AM is also the normal time [unless you changed it or disabled it] a System wide module query is done. Some have seen the hard to pin down All Module ON occurrence. With the 3 AM Query.

Not sure if the KPL also had tact switch issues. The early SwitchLinc Dimmer and Relay modules. Had the small tact switch the paddles activated not close when pushed. It would click but nothing happened. So one possibility is a bad tact switch. If all the verifying the Link Databases are correct and the wiring is all tight. I have not seen a KPL switch fix. I have seen one for the SwitchLincs

The short availability 2454D SocketLinc Dimmer. Acted the same. Power fail and restore. Always was On at 100% even if it was Off at the time.

You will find many LED bulbs do not smoothly transition on dimmers. Some worse than others.

It is normally hard wired into the four position terminal block inside the 2441ZT Wireless Thermostat. There is a small photo on the probes sales page. Showing where it is normally wired to. Note unless you wire it into the sensor inside the module connection on the circuit board and not the terminal block. The external temperature only shows on its local LCD screen and not sent back for use. You would also have to know its characteristics of the probe. So the one you want to substitute will read correct temperatures.

This is the one they sell for the 2441ZTH wireless model. Not very sure you can integrate it in to whet you want. http://www.smarthome.com/waterproof-temperature-sensor-for-insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html

It may no longer be available. AT one time First Alert had a dry contact accessory. That would give you a dry closure output from the Trigger Signal. It could be connected to things like an Insteon I/OLinc module or X10 Powerflash module.

Your substitutions should work fine. Both are being used in circuits where a good General Purpose capacitor is fine.

No only on the 2441ZTH display. There is a thread here where the external one was connected to where the main sensor is. Then it was what was reported not the internal one. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/?hl=2441zth

Not 100% sure if the 2477D has the blink on traffic feature or on power line noise also. If it does the 2672-222 maybe sending noise back on the power lines and the 2477D is blinking its LEDs from the noise or bogus Insteon messages. Is the 2672-222 always in a live socket and you turn it On; Off and Brightness level with Insteon Commands? So that if is going bad. It has power all the time. Flashing at 60 or 120 cycles could be the power supply in the 2672-222 is starting to fail.

Not sure if you would get anything additional from the FCC Internal Photos of the Fanlinc. They are on the FCC Database. Grantee Code: SBP Product Code: 2475F In the detail choice. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm Yes you can find most of the Insteon Dual Band modules in the Database. All have the same Grantee Code and different Product Codes.

Most seasoned Insteon users. Do a Factory Reset on all new modules. As Stu mentioned. We have seen both Insteon and X10 test addresses in them. When the factory didn't clear it out before shipping.

You can always restore individual modules if they have issues and not the whole setup. In the Tools Tab, Show Device Link Tables and then use the Compare choice after the devices Link Table was read. Remember. Battery operated Insteon modules have to be woken up from power saving mode before accessing them.

The BTA12-600 is a 12 amp 600 volt Triac The BTA16-600 is a 16 amp 600 volt Triac. The suffix letters in the part number. Indicate things like sensitive or normal trigger current and package type.

Do you have a recent backup, that was done before the original PLM was changed?

The number starting with BTA is the manufacturers part number for a commonly sold TRIAC. Many electronic parts vendors like Mouser or DigiKey should have them. A web search will also find the manufacturers web site datasheets and vendors stocking them. Was this module ever connected to anything or maybe was a Certified Refurbished from Smarthome? The only thing I can think of at the moment. Is the Red or Blue wire was shorted to Neutral, the load was grossly overloaded or a very high noise pulse blew it out. If it was a Refurbished module. The first owner may have blown it out and returned it. IMHO Smarthome does NOT 100% test returns resold as refurbished. I got an On Off Module with the whole internal PCB just floating loose in the case. No spacers or mounting screws in it to hold the PCB. Another one only the Red LED would work. The Green section was dead.

The FCC Database Photos don't show part numbers marked on the components. Is there any markings on the part that looks blown out or on one close to it that is not blown out?

Must have been a misprint or they changed the price. When I looked at the link earlier it was $49.99. Smarthome sales page is $79.99. Q9 in the FCC photos is probably a Triac used to control AC power. Could be the one that controls the High Speed AC or one of the others used to switch different capacitors in to the fan circuit. To select a speed setting.

http://www.amazon.com/Insteon-2475F-FanLinc-Dual-Band-Controller/dp/B00715SU4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463503764&sr=8-1&keywords=insteon+fan+controller Notice the seller is Smarthome through Amazon.

As pointed out. The schematic is incorrect. Your photo shows it is also a AC power line derived supply and is not safe to use external wiring. The 5 volts to ground is also indicating a power supply referenced back to the Line or Neutral. Depending on the exact circuit.

I can see why you are confused. It looks like the 2N2222 is not wired the way I expected. Maybe because the original modification is for a security alarm zone. The external output should not be using the Base of the transistor. May have to look this over and see what may work. In case you missed it in my earlier post. Measure with your meter from each speaker lead to a good safety ground for any AC or DC voltages. If the receiver does not have a polarized AC input plug and can be plugged in either direction. Reverse it in the outlet and measure it again.