Brian H

The Reverse Trigger was originally not needed. That was when the Garage Door Kit had a better magnetic switch in it. With both a Normally Open and Normally Closed set of contacts. Smarthome replaced it with a cheaper switch.

Thanks for the information. I am glad you found a better C7,C13 and C8 replacement.

I don't know why the admin console will not launch. I believe the accessing programs is locked out in the safe mode. So changes you made didn't get into the PLM's Link Database. When you change the PLM. Make sure you follow the procedure. So the replacement PLM's ID is found.

The 2413S PLM has a long history of dying shortly after 2 years old. You may want to look at the LED on the PLM and see if it is On. Running for a few days after a power cycle on the PLM is an indication it is going bad. In the tools tab, diagnostics, PLM Info/Status see if it shows connected or in safe mode. You may also want to look at the PLM Link table. If almost empty another indication the PLM is on it way out. Long thread but you may get additional information on determining if the PLM is the problem. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

No they indicate the light level on the Output. Side note. The relay On/Off modules only have the top On LED and the Bottom Off LED. The remaining LED positions are not populated.

Help Tab About choice.

They also make a dimmer version of the Micro Modules. That can be triggered by a mechanical switch if needed. Not sure if it can do what you want. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2442-222-micro-dimmer-module.html One point on the HUB. It can't do conditional programming like you can with an ISY994i.

Glad you got it working. It sounds like the I/OLinc had some stray settings in it and the factory reset set it all back to default.

I must admit. The way the latest constant email sales made me think of X10. Maybe one of the X10WTI crew is now working for Smarthome Sales.

The Memory and Error LEDs flashing. Indicate the ISY in unable to communicate with the Ethernet Network. You may have to do some troubleshooting of your network. Are you using a static IP address or DHCP? Any unusual indications on your router or Ethernet Gateway?

A few points. The electrolytic capacitors are polarized They have a + and - terminal. The capacitor will have a stripe to indicate the - terminal. The + lead on the new one should be slightly longer. Make note where the stripe is on the old one so you know the new ones orientation. The PC Board has a + screened next to the + solder pad and it is probably square. Message #132 has some nice internal photos of a V1.7 hardware PLM. I don't believe the board has been changed since V1.5. So it should be accurate for most PLM hardware revisions being repaired. Message #185 The file "PLM Repair.PDF" is a good set of instructions with good photos. I found a better way to handle the AC power wires in the instruction file. Just remember the capacitor polarity.

Thank you for straightening out the details. I was off track on some of what I thought was happening.

The caps are for the 2413S and 2413U. Not the old power transformer supply in the 2412S and 2412U. The kit should also work in the hardware 2.0 and above 2443 Access Points. They used the same base PLM board. Can't say about the caps now being used. As there where some different ones used depending on availability . I know mine fit though some may have been taller. The 10uf 400VDC I used was taller but was not so tall it was touching the top case or other components. Recent 2413S PLMs are supposed to have updated capacitors in them. Hardware 2.0 and above 2413 PLMs should have the updates already. The layout of the 1.0 hardware 2413S PLM had a rework to add the second capacitor and small coil in the filter. You will find the parts sticking out of the board and not soldered directly to the board. Photo in post #162 of this thread. The original RK caps in mine where rated at 105C life 2000 Hours. I am still not 100% sure the original RK capacitor was made for use in switching supplies. All the replacement I have seen are made for use in switching supplies. Most of the replacements are also 105C but may have a much higher rated life at 105C. Like 5000 Hours. Also every 10C lower than the maximum rating. Extends the life exponentially. Where you thinking about maximum working voltage? All the replacement ones I saw where a higher maximum working voltage.

Got an email this morning. It is also showing on the main Smarthome web page. The Fourth of July sales have started. $15 on a $100 purchase. $50 on a $250 purchase. $125 on any purchase >$500.

I missed the Trigger Reversed not being checked. So my comments on it maybe the issue are not relevant. I did see it was set from the default to Momentary A, 24 seconds hold time and relay follows input. So some options where changed. Even though the relay is not in use. Maybe if the actual program was posted. Someone may see a condition that gets modified when a Query is done. Causing the problem. Now that you jogged my memory. I also remember I/OLincs options not always updating until being refreshed.

I suspect the 3:00 AM Query was disabled. Band aid fix. Was used. Instead of rewriting the program so the reversed sensor option was not used.

If I read the original post. The thermostat is strictly connected to the Sensor and Ground terminals of the I/OLinc. Through its RC/RH and W terminals. Using its mechanical temperature controlled contacts to turn the Sensor Input On and Off. I did not see any reference to 24 volts AC but if there is any external voltage getting into the I/OLinc's Sensor Input. It could be damaged. It has some input protection but probably not able to safely handle 24 volts AC. I also believe the user just disabled the 3:00 AM Query and called it fixed. If the relay output is following the Sensor State it had to be set that way as default in follow sensor input is disabled. Even if not being used. It still had to have been set that way.

The email I got yesterday. Was additional 50% off of bargain bin items.

I am getting regular email offers. Nothing extra special in the last few weeks. Previously in the last few months did have some deals like 20% off with the email coupon code or special prices with a link in the email to the devices special price sales page. Some where not showing on the Smarthome web site. I suspect around the 4th of July they may have a sale. That use to be one of the time of the year when a sale was done.

Sounds like you are now making some progress. From your findings. I would also be thinking power line issues. I have my UPS and computing gear on a Filterlinc. The UPS is on the bottom filtered outlet and the PLM is in the unfiltered pass through outlet on the front.

Your log shows three attempts to access the 2450 with no responses back to the commands to add it. After the start linking finds the 2450's six digit ID and the and process was started. If your log was not running in Level 3. It would show additional information like Hops= for the command sent and may give added information for us. Contacting UDI as suggested may also be a way to go.

I did find the fan and as you said DC motor. I was editing my earlier post when you provided the added information.

I did some web surfing and found the fan you have. That is a unique fan. Sales data says DC motor with many speed choices. Most use an AC fan motor that can be reversed and used AC rated capacitors or multiple winding's to vary the speed.

I don't believe the Administrative Console will show the Serial or USB type for the 2413. Some programs check the Insteon device Category and Subcategory for the device. Both are Category 03 with the Subcategory 11 for serial and 15 for USB. Since the device type is in the main boards firmware. The USB model you chanced to the serial daughter board will report it is a USB type. Taking a serial daughter board from an older PLM like a 2412S would probably fail. As it used a different link database memory chip. That was slower in speed and in some models a different memory size capacity. It also had the fuse installed on it to provide power out of the RJ45 Serial Port Connector.

All the replacement capacitors for the 6.8 uF 250V capacitors are physically larger. So they will stick up more from the PCB. The 6.8uF 250V measures around 10mm diameter and 12mm tall. The KEMET ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400V I used was 10mm diameter X 19mm tall. Most of the other ones where in approximately the same size. Do fit OK The UPW2G100MHD1T0 specifications sheet says it is larger physically. 12.5mm diameter 25mm tall. I would also be interested in knowing if it fits.