Brian H

About $18.00 from Smarthome. Though shipping the Canada has been mentioned as expensive when Smarthome ships things. http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

The 2456D3 has been discontinued for a long time now. 2457D2 Dual Band is the replacement.

Restore PLM. Sends a software reset command to the PLM and reloads only the active links back in to it.

Yes One of the Doorbell Sensing sections of the ELK930 is in series with the bell current. Minimum bell current specified in the data sheet is 900mA. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/1221.pdf

As long as it is a Dual Band Insteon Module. A few of the older models are still the power line only ones.

Shouldn't the ELK930 be connected to the Sense and Ground Input? You show it on the Ground and 5 volt connections. That will short out the five volt supply on the terminal block.

I have a Filterlinc on my UPS. With my PLM in the unfiltered pass through outlet on the front.

Even with the old KPL physically removed. If it is still in the Administrative Console. You can add the new one and use the replace module function. It will write all the needed changes to the system.

Just remember. Any links the Insteon Hub adds to the modules. Your ISY994i will not know about and could eventually cause link table issues.

I have the early A19 type Cree Bulbs not the 4 flow ones now being sold. I have had the shells just get loose and fall off. Flicker On and Off then die. Using a Insteon Switchlinc Relay. No dimmers on any of them. The more expensive TW models with CRI of >90 on standard wall switches do the samething. Pulse flicker and then die.

C7 and C13 are the most likely failures. They are on the low voltage side of the small switching power supply. Running at 200 kHz. Their ESR may have gone way up and not show on a MultiMeter.

The EZIOCOMM is built on the same base PLM assembly. With their own daughter board. If it is new enough to have the base 2413 PLM main board. It is probably subject to the same poor power supply caps we see in out 2413S PLMs.

A phototransistor. That may work much better. I will have to see if I have any to play with in my components boxes.

The Micro Module maybe a better way to go. From what I can see in your photos. The indicator light looks like a Neon Indicator assembly. They don't put out a great amount of light.

You can't find a resister value that allows the Sensor Voltage to go low enough to trigger it on. While allowing it to go high enough when the light is off to trigger back off.

I missed that point. Does look like a parallel resistor is not going to cut it.

Its more complicated. There is a pull up resistor from five volts to the Sensor Input connector. Also the Sensor LED with its own current limiting resistor is also from five volts to the Sensor Input. That is why the Sensor LED can glow from a resistance not low enough to trigger the Sensor On.

My tests on early I/OLincs showed a one volt sensor to ground was just where it started to trigger On even though the Green LED will glow if the sensor voltage is being pulled down to a higher level than the trigger point. Around 800 Ohms pulled it down to where it just started to trigger On. 2.25 volts is not low enough. Would be hard to pick a resistor in parallel. Maybe a good point to start would be 10K or 4.7K.

Glad to read of another success.

I too have seen and tested the 2440 RemoteLincs. They don't work correctly close to the latest 2413S PLMs. Not sure if it is a hardware component change or maybe the RF Firmware for the RF section was tweaked.

Stu; I was referring to the 6 watt one you linked to in an earlier post.

That bulb may not draw enough current to trigger the ELK930. The specification is .9 amps or higher. About 21 watts with 24 volts.

Other signs of the PLM going bad. LED on the side is very dim or out. Disconnecting from the AC outlet. To let it cool down and functioning for a brief time. Link Database empty or a low link count.

Did you use the Delete Modem (PLM) choice at one point in time? That would leave only a few links to be written back to the modules.

Across the The Sensor input and Ground is around 5 volts from an internal circuit and where you would connect the photocell and resistor combination. No external voltage should be needed. My tests on early I/OLinc's showed they would detect an On at lower than about 1 volt and a resistance to pull it that low was around 800 Ohms. The resistor in parallel may make the Sensor LED glow as it is part of the internal circuit directly on the Sensor Terminal. Just try and verify the dark voltage is as high above 1 volt as possible and well below 1 volt with it being illuminated.