Brian H

Good point Andy. I will remember that. Thanks.

Also don't forget. The sensor itself has a built in timer with a switch to pick the timeout. Have you adjusted the sensitivity control for best detection with less false triggers?

That is how I did it. Made a scene with every power line commanded module in it and turned it On or Off depending on what I wanted to do. No use to add RF devices like RemoteLincs.

If you decide to go with a relay and only need one sensor input. The Insteon 2450 I/OLinc would also work.

Maybe a mistake on the sales page or they know something we don't know yet. The real small silk screened legend on the I/OLinc does show the tip as +5, Ring as Sensor and body as Ground. I have rung out the terminal block to the 1/8" stereo jack and it matches. I just checked a hardware version 1.8 and like my old 1.0s. It still has the +5 volts on the tip, sensor on the ring and ground on the body of the 1/8" stereo jack.

I downloaded it awhile back and they seem to have removed the link from the sales page. Through some searching and knowing their general addressing in their manuals area. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/8015_web.pdf It doesn't say too much anyway as the 8015 was originally used on some of their now discontinued products. I believe the I/OLinc mentioned in the 8015 booklet is the old 1624 I/OLInc. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/1624_web.pdf

Thanks for the DC tests. I will see what mine does when it gets here. That sensor was originally used with their older devices. Maybe they didn't research it so well. Users Manual is from 2003. I have found a few other errors in some of their I/OLinc Kits.

I downloaded the 8015 manual from Smarthome. As a test you may want to try a DC source on the input wires. Manual says White is positive with DC. My gut says the AC input maybe causing the 8015 to pulse On and Off not triggering the I/OLinc. Can't do any definitive tests until my 8015 arrives.

I did a rough sketch of the I/OLincs sensor input. The Green LED and a few resistors is all part of it. 1.7 ma sounds about correct and mine all toggled at around 1.0 volts or less from Sen to Gnd. Yes the LED can glow and if Sen isn't below 1.0 volts. It does not trigger. I have a 8015 coming and will see what I can find out.

Something is not right. The Sensor to Ground should have 5 volts DC on it from its internal sensing circuit. Measure the sensor to ground on the I/OLInc with the probe disconnected. Almost sounds like the probe is messed up.

Are you reading the voltages with the probe connected to the I/OLinc? It maybe using the +5 volts from the I/OLinc to power its internal electronics. What do you measure with the probe connected conected to the jack. Using the terminal block of the I/OLinc for the meter? Look at the Sensor to Ground voltage terminals. Should be close to +5 volts when not active and close to zero with the bell ringing. My tests showed that the sensing voltage from the I/OLinc had to be pulled to below one volt for mine to trigger. About 800 Ohms from Sensor to Ground was where mine sent the command. I also have seen the Sensor LED glow dimly and the voltage was not pulled low enough to send the command. I have a brand new I/OLInc and will be comparing it to my older ones revision 1.0. On the chance something has changed. The new revision 1.8 acts almost the same as the old 1.0s.

If the green Sensor LED is dim. Then the low voltage probe is not pulling the sensor input low enough to trigger it or it is pulsing from the AC into it. I have one of the ELK 930s myself. It has three PC Boards that can be separated if you care to. Two Doorbell and one telephone ringing detector. Used one of the doorbell sections to sense when the bell current was being drawn. I used the common transformer terminal as that way both the back and front doorbells trigger it. In my case I have an X10 Powerflash module. I have tested it with an I/OLInc Sensor Input and it was fine. One thing to remember. Depending on the Sensor being On or Off when linked. You can get the I/OLinc to send an Off when the sensor is On.

I would expect an Official Press Release from Smartlabs. Shortly before they are avilable.

Yes it is. I have a few assorted modules myself.

In the Add a New Insteon Device from Link Management. You can type in the six digit hex ID if you know them. Give them a name for My Lighting. Use the Auto Discover for device type. Choose to keep existing links in device. Though I believe that is also going to see the 2412Ns ID in them and maybe get messed up. That way you don't have to physically hold each modules Set Button. I started from scratch when I did mine.

Lots of data in the UDI wiki. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page There is a network style cable between the PLM and the ISY99i caring serial data. Then the ISY99i connects to your network for computer access. Through its network connector. The presently shipping PLM is the Dual Band 2413S which does not send power to the ISY99i like the older 2412S. So make sure you get a power supply if you decide on an ISY99i.

Since you did find the users manual. You probably have the link to the wiki but if not. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page It has many tips and added things not in the manual itself.

Yes there is. The link is in the first post of this thread.

The IO/Linc Sensor input is for a dry contact only. It has a sensing voltage on it already. Putting an external voltage into the sensor input would not be a good idea. I believe the low voltage probe is an optocoupled device. So the input voltage is isolated from the output. The .4 volts you are reading on the sensor to ground is the low voltage probes pulling the sensors input low.

What happens if you disconnect the low voltage probe signal from the IOLinc S and GND terminals and connect a short piece of wire between S and GND.? When you linked the IOLinc was the sensor activated or not? I believe you can link the sensor to send an Odd when activated and an On when not. Pushing the set button toggles the relay and maybe you are seeing the relay status and not the sensor status.

My old EZX10RF only sends a power line signal one time and mistranslates the All Units Off to All Lights Off. All of my X10 receivers. TM751, RR501, CM15A and SC1200 send a power line command two times. So if your new EZX10RF sends the power line signals two times. They have changed the firmware in them. What does the Event Viewer show in the #3 Communications Events with the EZX10RF?

The X10 remotes do send the commands more than one time. I used a Smarthome 1132CU to capture the power line signals. X10 UR19A Remote. Sent All Lights On and All Units Off. Notice the EZX10RF translated All Units Off to All Lights Off and only sent the power line signal one time. EZX10RF V14 PLM52: R: AAll Lights On - 1:07:34 PM 2/18/2012 R: AAll Lights Off - 1:07:41 PM 2/18/2012 X10 SC1200 Security Console Tranceiving: R: AAll Lights On - 1:08:41 PM 2/18/2012 R: AAll Lights On - 1:08:42 PM 2/18/2012 R: AAll Units Off - 1:08:44 PM 2/18/2012 R: AAll Units Off - 1:08:44 PM 2/18/2012

There are a few threads on Smart Meters killing X10 communications and Insteon is not that far away from the X10 power line signal frequency wise and using Zero Crossing for timing. Some users had no problems others did. Seemed one brand of Smart Meters where more problems than a different manufacturers models. Some details here. Long thread but has some information on the problems. http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESS ... ic=22508.0

If your country is 220 volts 50 Cycles. The PLM besides needing 220 volts input rating would have to be able to time itself to 50 cycles. As Lee said. A few modules are now being made for 120/220 volts 50/60 cycles but not the PLM yet.

Candide; Did you use the procedure from the wiki and use the SF command to format the SD card to optimal use in ISY? I did and was curious if anyone else was doing it.