Brian H

OH the Radio Shack labeled. X10 PowerMid IR Extender sender and receiver pair.

Some devices where known to ship from the factory with test links and X10 addresses in them. Did you do a Factory reset on it first or use the delete all found links choice when adding it to your setup? I believe a factory reset is needed to remove X10 addresses or the manual set button sequence remove X10 address is required. Many of us do a factory reset on every module before we install them into the ISY My Lighting. If you use the local paddle on the switch in question. You may see the X10 message being sent in the Event Viewer. Choice #3 Communications Events.

ELA, I will be very interested in your findings. My old Heathkit Scope is not the best at accurate readings these days. I don't think the square wave was anywhere close to <1 volt. I don't think my I/OLinc ever sent any messages as the sensor LED was not very bright when it pulsed On and I did not see the LED on the side toggle bright indicating a transmission was done. I don't have too many thoughts on why they thought the 8015 would work with an I/OLinc. Why did the original Water and Moisture Sensor kit have a Flood Stop sensor in it that was a grid of bare copper runs that watter would cause a leakage current. That didn't trigger the I/OLInc with some users having fairly pure water. Didn't pull Sensor Input close enough to Ground. Or the original RFID Kit that triggered instantly because of a wire that should have been caped off being connected to the ELK Sensitive Relay Boards + Trigger Input. I found that one and posted it in the Smarthome Forums. The instructions eventually got updated.

My tests with a 2450 I/OLinc shows you have to pull the Sensor Input below 1 volt. For the Sensor to trigger the module. About 780 Ohms from Sensor to Ground triggers it. The Sensor LED can glow before the voltage is below 1.0 volts so it is not always a indicator it was triggered. My v1.0 Input: A 180 Ohm resistor from Sensor Input to a pin on the controller chip. A 2.2K resistor in series with the Green Sensor LED from +5 to the controller side of the 180 Ohm resistor. A 10K resistor from +5 Volts to the controller side of the 180 Ohm resistor. LeeG's relay sounds like a good method to trigger the I/OLinc.

Since there is no connection information for the 8015. I used the information silk screened on the 2450 I/OLinc. Tip + 5V, Ring Signal Out and Shell ground. Did some added tests. 2450 I/OLinc v1.0 providing +5 volts and ground. Sensor Terminal NC. 10K resistor from 8015 out to ground. No voltage on resistor with 6.10 or 11.88 VDC or 11.35 VAC connected to the 8015 Input. 10K resistor from 8015 out to +5 VDC. 5 VDC on 8015 out to ground with no Input. 3.69 VDC on 8015 out to ground with 6.10 or 11.88 VDC on Input. 4.1 VDC on 8015 out to ground with a 11.35 VAC connected to the Input. My scope did show something interesting and may explain why the Sensor LED flashes briefly when the Input is applied. Using the above setup. The 5 VDC pulses close to zero the rises back up to 3.69 VDC on the 8015 out to ground. With the DC voltages on the Input. The AC Input gives you a SQUARE wave on the 8015 out to ground. I then removed the 10K pull up and used the Sensor of the 2450 I/OLinc. Basically the same thing. Pulsed close to zero and ramped partially up with a DC Input to the 8015 and a square wave with the AC Input to the 8015. I don't see anyway an 8015 can work with a 2450 I/OLinc. Unless this batch of 8015s is flawed and QC didn't catch it.

ELA, No problem. I can add that to some other tings I was going to try. Yes digging the scope out is also on the list. The 8015 was originally used with their X10 line of devices many years ago. Including a different model I/OLinc for X10.

If you didn't download the fixtures users manual it is here: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/4097bn.pdf Apparently to go into the Local Mode you flip the power Off for a second and Back On Maybe you somehow toggled the power to the fixture and it went into Local Mode.

I received my 8015 today and had a chance to do some tests. Unless Smarthome got a bad run of them. Some one made a bad choice. Mine also does not work with a 2450 I/OLinc. My meter showed no current being drawn by the +5 volts input of the probe. Input sensing voltage On or Off. Though my meter did show what maybe a small capacitor charging on +5 to Common. The Input seems to be using a single diode on the input. I had to use my meter to find which wire was the + Input as it had no white wire or stripe. Revision 1.0 2450: Probe Input Voltage: Input Current: 2450 Sensor to Ground Voltage: Sinking Current by probe: 6.10 Volts DC 4.95 mA. 3.68 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 11.88 Volts DC 10.68 mA. 3.67 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 17.90 Volts DC 16.60 mA. 3.67 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 11.35 Volts AC 5.66 mA. AC 4.15 Volts DC 0.13 mA. Quick check of a revision 1.8 2450: 11.88 Volts DC 3.66 Volts DC I used a small audio amplifier to listen to the sensor terminal to ground as my scope is not easy to get out. With any of the DC Voltage Inputs there was on click as the sensor voltage dropped. There was a constant Buzz with the AC Input. Notice the sensor voltage didn't go much lower with a higher voltage and current DC input. I also noticed the Green Sensor LED would sometimes flash briefly. Sorry if the chart got truncated by the forum software. Looked fine when I created it.

Good point Andy. I will remember that. Thanks.

Also don't forget. The sensor itself has a built in timer with a switch to pick the timeout. Have you adjusted the sensitivity control for best detection with less false triggers?

That is how I did it. Made a scene with every power line commanded module in it and turned it On or Off depending on what I wanted to do. No use to add RF devices like RemoteLincs.

If you decide to go with a relay and only need one sensor input. The Insteon 2450 I/OLinc would also work.

Maybe a mistake on the sales page or they know something we don't know yet. The real small silk screened legend on the I/OLinc does show the tip as +5, Ring as Sensor and body as Ground. I have rung out the terminal block to the 1/8" stereo jack and it matches. I just checked a hardware version 1.8 and like my old 1.0s. It still has the +5 volts on the tip, sensor on the ring and ground on the body of the 1/8" stereo jack.

I downloaded it awhile back and they seem to have removed the link from the sales page. Through some searching and knowing their general addressing in their manuals area. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/8015_web.pdf It doesn't say too much anyway as the 8015 was originally used on some of their now discontinued products. I believe the I/OLinc mentioned in the 8015 booklet is the old 1624 I/OLInc. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/1624_web.pdf

Thanks for the DC tests. I will see what mine does when it gets here. That sensor was originally used with their older devices. Maybe they didn't research it so well. Users Manual is from 2003. I have found a few other errors in some of their I/OLinc Kits.

I downloaded the 8015 manual from Smarthome. As a test you may want to try a DC source on the input wires. Manual says White is positive with DC. My gut says the AC input maybe causing the 8015 to pulse On and Off not triggering the I/OLinc. Can't do any definitive tests until my 8015 arrives.

I did a rough sketch of the I/OLincs sensor input. The Green LED and a few resistors is all part of it. 1.7 ma sounds about correct and mine all toggled at around 1.0 volts or less from Sen to Gnd. Yes the LED can glow and if Sen isn't below 1.0 volts. It does not trigger. I have a 8015 coming and will see what I can find out.

Something is not right. The Sensor to Ground should have 5 volts DC on it from its internal sensing circuit. Measure the sensor to ground on the I/OLInc with the probe disconnected. Almost sounds like the probe is messed up.

Are you reading the voltages with the probe connected to the I/OLinc? It maybe using the +5 volts from the I/OLinc to power its internal electronics. What do you measure with the probe connected conected to the jack. Using the terminal block of the I/OLinc for the meter? Look at the Sensor to Ground voltage terminals. Should be close to +5 volts when not active and close to zero with the bell ringing. My tests showed that the sensing voltage from the I/OLinc had to be pulled to below one volt for mine to trigger. About 800 Ohms from Sensor to Ground was where mine sent the command. I also have seen the Sensor LED glow dimly and the voltage was not pulled low enough to send the command. I have a brand new I/OLInc and will be comparing it to my older ones revision 1.0. On the chance something has changed. The new revision 1.8 acts almost the same as the old 1.0s.

If the green Sensor LED is dim. Then the low voltage probe is not pulling the sensor input low enough to trigger it or it is pulsing from the AC into it. I have one of the ELK 930s myself. It has three PC Boards that can be separated if you care to. Two Doorbell and one telephone ringing detector. Used one of the doorbell sections to sense when the bell current was being drawn. I used the common transformer terminal as that way both the back and front doorbells trigger it. In my case I have an X10 Powerflash module. I have tested it with an I/OLInc Sensor Input and it was fine. One thing to remember. Depending on the Sensor being On or Off when linked. You can get the I/OLinc to send an Off when the sensor is On.

I would expect an Official Press Release from Smartlabs. Shortly before they are avilable.

Yes it is. I have a few assorted modules myself.

In the Add a New Insteon Device from Link Management. You can type in the six digit hex ID if you know them. Give them a name for My Lighting. Use the Auto Discover for device type. Choose to keep existing links in device. Though I believe that is also going to see the 2412Ns ID in them and maybe get messed up. That way you don't have to physically hold each modules Set Button. I started from scratch when I did mine.

Lots of data in the UDI wiki. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page There is a network style cable between the PLM and the ISY99i caring serial data. Then the ISY99i connects to your network for computer access. Through its network connector. The presently shipping PLM is the Dual Band 2413S which does not send power to the ISY99i like the older 2412S. So make sure you get a power supply if you decide on an ISY99i.

Since you did find the users manual. You probably have the link to the wiki but if not. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page It has many tips and added things not in the manual itself.