Brian H

If you don't have IR and want to add it. As LeeG indicated you need to buy the IR hardware board that plugs into the ISY99is mainboard. Then {don't do it before the hardware is in there} Go to Manage Modules tab and buy the IR firmware option module

If your memory is correct you may have missed a step. Hold the top paddle until the top LED flashes and release. I don't remember if the bottom one may also. Then push the set button in momentarily and release. Then hold the set button in again for ten seconds and release.

I have also seen this firmware and hardware version numbers change with models. I have some 2876SB Icon On/Off switches. The older ones with green LED are hardware 1.1 and firmware v.60. The later one with Amber LED is a hardware 1.0 firmware v.28. I hope someone from UDI can find out whet happed to your units. I believe there are some parameters that can be charged in them to do things like disable the timer functions.

Teken, Are the two 2476ST modules different revisions? As I see the ISY reports one has a v.63 firmware and the other one a v.38. The unofficial list of users inputed data indicated the v.63 is an i1 device and the v.38 is the newer i2 device.

Maybe it was made with the older 2476S design and didn't have any Air Gap Switch. All of my old hardware revision 2476S SwitchLinc Relay modules don't have an Air Gap Switch and use a 100% different method to do a Factory Reset. The on line 2476ST page also does not say anything about the Air gap Switch when doing a factory reset. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... t_Settings

Went in OK. One minor glitch. In IE8 when the firmware was supposed to close the browser and the ISY rebooted. The IE8 screen didn't close and became unresponsive. Used Task Manager to force it closed.

The XPCP is a nice coupler. It has two completely isolated AC inputs coupled by signal transformers.

Are you running any anti virus or firewall software and what programs are they?

Sounds like HL2 doesn't stop at the 00 and reads the remaining link database that should be ignored after seeing the 00.

The modified sine wave regulated ones. Could be a problem with both Insteon and other protocol devices.

We may have given you the link to the wiki in the Smarthome forums. Just in case. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page Full Users Manual is also avilable there also.

So you are back feeding the AC into the InLineLincs load connection when it is Off but the motion sensor see a motion and turns the lights On? I am not saying it could be a problem. I was just curious if you where driving the lights with the motion sensor and InLineLink Dimmers load connections. If the dimmer was not at 100% or Off when the motion sensor went On or the InLineLinc Dimmer was ramping On when the sensor was already On. Maybe that could be a problem

So basically you have the motion sensor always powered and its motion switched output controls the AC Line input to the InLineLinc Dimmer. If the motion sensors output uses a triac and not a relay. The InLincLinc may not play well but tests would have to be done and see if it worked. The Insteon signals may also not pass through the motion sensor. Again tests would show problems. If there is no motion {No AC to InlineLinc} and you want to turn the InLineLinc On or Off. It has no power and will not get the power line commands.

If it is used. I would do a factory reset on it first. For a clean start. Also depending on the age. Verify the paddle buttons work. Some had tact switch problems and the paddle would not always work. They would click but not activate the electronics.

I believe you are right. Older LampLincs where responders only. I had found a few strange things when an X10 Address was added to Insteon Modules. The Obscure Bug I found with a Secondary X10 Address was the most troubling. viewtopic.php?f=30&t=2752

LeeG, There is a quirk in my older V2.0 LampLincs and V1.3 ApplinaceLincs. Firmware v.28. Along with my V4.1 ApplianceLincs Firmware v.32. If you add an X10 Primary Address to them with Local Control Enabled. When you use the lamps local switch to trigger them On. It sends an X10 On to the Address it was set to.

#1. Tapping the set button on Icon dimmer modules. Sets the local On level. That would be the brief flash letting you know the new level was accepted. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... e_On-Level You should not use the set button to try and toggle them On and Off. They also don't report back to the ISY console if you do manage to turn them On or Off. Appliance types like the Icon On/Off may locally toggle On and Off with the set button, but again will not send an update to the ISY. If you don't have the Full Users Manuals for your modules. There is a link on each models sales page for them or the Smarthome wiki has a set of links also. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... 7s_Manuals

The ISY99i is not too fussy to what DC voltage you use. 5 to 30 Volts DC; 500 ma minimum is what the wiki says. So you could buy a supply locally. Making sure the tip is + and it fits the ISY99i. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... pply_Power viewtopic.php?t=3593

I have seen posts where UDI had an adapter for the older units to fit the power supply barrel connector. I am sure they will chime in with the older barrel connectors size or what adapter they can provide.

The EZIO6I has six inputs. Four Optoisolated and two digital or analog. The four Optoisoleted Inputs I1,I2,I3 and I4. You can connect I1+, I2+, I3+ and I4+ to the +12 volt terminal of the unit. Then connect a switch to I1- or I2- or I3- or I4- and using the common ground terminal for all four inputs. I5 and I6 the Digital ones are a different setup and can't be used over +5 volts. For those you are going to need a 5 volt source or make a small regulator circuit to generate the 5 volts from the modules 12 volts. Then add a pull up resistor from the +5 volts to I5 and one to I6. Connecting a switch to I5 and I6 and ground. I would use a 1000 Ohm to 10,000 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor for each pull up. The switch on I5 or I6 grounds the terminal through the pull up resistor to safely limit the current and change the level on the terminal from +5 volts to close to 0 volts.

You running any Firewalls or Antivirus programs? I know Avast caused me all kinds of problems.

Gee my older model with a green LED is just right in my computer room. Next to the router. I wish I could say the same about my early SwitchLincs with those bright LEDs. Even the dark blue or frosted white light pipes only assist to a point.

Check the Help Tab About Choice to read your firmware version. I am thinking 2.8.16 as it was the last official release.

You found it. 2.8.16

A power tap on the output side of the module. So you can add a small night light works well for many users. If you don't like a small glowing night light when it is On. You could use a AC plug with the resistor carefully insulated in place of the night light. X10 modules where worse than Insteon ones and a 47,000 Ohm 1/2 watt made almost all LEDs stop glowing.