Brian H

No you don't have to request betas anymore. There will be an announcement post with links and instructions. I have a few I2CS modules from the developers group offer and will give it a try when avilable.

I am using my ISY26's power supply for my ISY99i. The unit is not too fussy on input voltage. viewtopic.php?t=3593 Maybe more steps now but the wiki has this. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... ur_ISY-99i

Are you running any Firewall or Antivirus programs? If you are. What software is it?

What does PLM Info/Status show in the tools diagnostics tests?

Thanks LeeG for the findings. Like when I2 was released and implemented all or part of the protocol. Not all I2CS features are in all model I2CS devices. A different model may not even add to My Lighting.

Since each manufacturer usually uses a different RF frequency and data encoding. I would doubt anything but e Dakota 3000 series device will work with it. I know the Simplehomenet sensors tab seems to say many RF devices but the exact page for the unit specifies Dakota 3000.

I believe it is any Dakota Series 3000 Transmitters for the EZSnsRF. Included in their line of series 3000 devices.

I also was under the impression there was going to be an announcement. Here is what my Beta I2CS 2420M gives when I click on Options. FD NAK is the big clue. At least I could add it to My Lighting as you know other models you can't even add. PLM:19.70.1A Motion Sensor: 14.96.56 I2CS Firmware Clicking Set Options Tab in Administration Console. Event Viewer #3 Communications Events. Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [14 96 56 1 ] Using engine version i2 for 'MS1-Sensor' Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 14.96.56 1F 2F 00 00 00 00 07 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 06 (00) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A 2B 2F 00 (00) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [standard-Direct Ack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [iNST-ERX ] 02 51 14 96 56 19 70 1A 11 2F 00 00 01 00 07 01 50 10 01 8F 0E 64 01 80 E5 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [Extended-Direct][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=1, Hops Left=0 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:15 AM : [All ] Writing 0 bytes to devices Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:32 AM : [14 96 56 1 ] Using engine version i2 for 'MS1-Sensor' Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:32 AM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 14.96.56 1F 2F 00 00 02 00 07 08 50 10 01 8F 0E 64 03 80 00 06 (00) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:33 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:33 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:33 AM : [All ] Writing 0 bytes to devices Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD): Process Message: Ignored Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:34 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:35 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:35 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:36 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD) Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:36 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:36 AM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 14.96.56 19.70.1A AB 2F FD (FD): Process Message: Ignored Sat 03/10/2012 06:53:36 AM : [standard-Direct Nack][14.96.56-->ISY/PLM Group=0] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2

The developers Group was told. Before I2CS was in shipping products. An announcement would be made. That said. A NAK of FD looks like a I2CS reply.

The sales page says HouseLinc and the SmartLinc Controller have support for the IP camera. http://www.smarthome.com/75790/Smarthom ... ack/p.aspx

You may want to look at your AC power wall wart transformer. If it has only two connections for low voltage AC into the panel. You would need the 1361X10 interface power transformer that supplies power to the console and has three connections for signals that send the X10 power line commands. This web site has links to the Vista-20P Users, Installation and Programming Manuals. http://www.aesecurity.com/manuals.html

Yes just disconnect the transformer from the Black/White wire and connect the 1N4002 band end to the Black/white wire and the other side of the diode where the wire was originally connected.

Glad it worked for you. You may want to connect a diode in series with the Black/White Input wire. Band end to the Black/White wire. If your input is AC. I don't like putting too much reverse voltage on the OptoCouplers input. A 1N4002 or 1N4003 would be a high enough reverse blocking voltage.

That is how my little tester was assembled. Nothing more than a 1/8" stereo jack mounted on a small scrap enclosure. With three wires soldered to it. Then I used the three wires screwed in to the I/OLincs terminal block. Radio Shack even makes an 1/8" In Line Stereo Female Jack. 274-274 set of two. On mine copper tab is Tip and Silver tab is Ring. You could solder wires to one. Then make sure the tip connected to Sensor and the ring to +5. If you decide to just cut the plug off. The Red in the cable is sensor and the White was the +5V. If possible I would make an adapter and not cut the plug Off. That way you could still return it if needed. As I was also not impressed with the way the Input Voltage was handled.

I decides to make the 8015 mine and cut the shrink tubing off of one end of the assembly. Then slid it out of the heavy cardboard tube. The colors of the wire terminals marking on the PCB did match the cable itself. I did a rough sketch and found something strange. A surface mounted transistor from +5 to Ground. When the 8015 is turned on the +5 volt supply current to the probe was like 35 mA. After studying the diagram I made. It looked like the Sensor and +5 volt connections are reversed. On my patch breadboard I reversed the +5 and Sensor connections and the 8015 worked 100%. With both AC and DC the Sensor LED stayed on Bright and the I/OLInc sent an On when activated and an Off when deactivated. There is a slight delay for a capacitor to diacharge before the Off is sent. Since the colors of the wires match the silk screening on the small PCB. I can only think either the cable is incorrect or the original equipment the 8015 was designed for. Sensor on the TIP and +5 volts on the ring. I would highly recommend anyone with an 8015 and an I/OLinc to NOT use it as it places a short across + 5 Volts To ground when activated.

I bought a set when X10 was having one of their sales but have not used them yet. I didn't buy the optional IR emitter on an extension cable you could connect to the receiver so it didn't have to be in line with device you wanted to control. I don't know if the Radio Shack Kit may have included the IR Emitter on the extension cable.

I may just send it back using their online order options. Or my curious side may cut the shrink tube off of the insulated case and look at the guts.

OH the Radio Shack labeled. X10 PowerMid IR Extender sender and receiver pair.

Some devices where known to ship from the factory with test links and X10 addresses in them. Did you do a Factory reset on it first or use the delete all found links choice when adding it to your setup? I believe a factory reset is needed to remove X10 addresses or the manual set button sequence remove X10 address is required. Many of us do a factory reset on every module before we install them into the ISY My Lighting. If you use the local paddle on the switch in question. You may see the X10 message being sent in the Event Viewer. Choice #3 Communications Events.

ELA, I will be very interested in your findings. My old Heathkit Scope is not the best at accurate readings these days. I don't think the square wave was anywhere close to <1 volt. I don't think my I/OLinc ever sent any messages as the sensor LED was not very bright when it pulsed On and I did not see the LED on the side toggle bright indicating a transmission was done. I don't have too many thoughts on why they thought the 8015 would work with an I/OLinc. Why did the original Water and Moisture Sensor kit have a Flood Stop sensor in it that was a grid of bare copper runs that watter would cause a leakage current. That didn't trigger the I/OLInc with some users having fairly pure water. Didn't pull Sensor Input close enough to Ground. Or the original RFID Kit that triggered instantly because of a wire that should have been caped off being connected to the ELK Sensitive Relay Boards + Trigger Input. I found that one and posted it in the Smarthome Forums. The instructions eventually got updated.

My tests with a 2450 I/OLinc shows you have to pull the Sensor Input below 1 volt. For the Sensor to trigger the module. About 780 Ohms from Sensor to Ground triggers it. The Sensor LED can glow before the voltage is below 1.0 volts so it is not always a indicator it was triggered. My v1.0 Input: A 180 Ohm resistor from Sensor Input to a pin on the controller chip. A 2.2K resistor in series with the Green Sensor LED from +5 to the controller side of the 180 Ohm resistor. A 10K resistor from +5 Volts to the controller side of the 180 Ohm resistor. LeeG's relay sounds like a good method to trigger the I/OLinc.

Since there is no connection information for the 8015. I used the information silk screened on the 2450 I/OLinc. Tip + 5V, Ring Signal Out and Shell ground. Did some added tests. 2450 I/OLinc v1.0 providing +5 volts and ground. Sensor Terminal NC. 10K resistor from 8015 out to ground. No voltage on resistor with 6.10 or 11.88 VDC or 11.35 VAC connected to the 8015 Input. 10K resistor from 8015 out to +5 VDC. 5 VDC on 8015 out to ground with no Input. 3.69 VDC on 8015 out to ground with 6.10 or 11.88 VDC on Input. 4.1 VDC on 8015 out to ground with a 11.35 VAC connected to the Input. My scope did show something interesting and may explain why the Sensor LED flashes briefly when the Input is applied. Using the above setup. The 5 VDC pulses close to zero the rises back up to 3.69 VDC on the 8015 out to ground. With the DC voltages on the Input. The AC Input gives you a SQUARE wave on the 8015 out to ground. I then removed the 10K pull up and used the Sensor of the 2450 I/OLinc. Basically the same thing. Pulsed close to zero and ramped partially up with a DC Input to the 8015 and a square wave with the AC Input to the 8015. I don't see anyway an 8015 can work with a 2450 I/OLinc. Unless this batch of 8015s is flawed and QC didn't catch it.

ELA, No problem. I can add that to some other tings I was going to try. Yes digging the scope out is also on the list. The 8015 was originally used with their X10 line of devices many years ago. Including a different model I/OLinc for X10.

If you didn't download the fixtures users manual it is here: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/4097bn.pdf Apparently to go into the Local Mode you flip the power Off for a second and Back On Maybe you somehow toggled the power to the fixture and it went into Local Mode.

I received my 8015 today and had a chance to do some tests. Unless Smarthome got a bad run of them. Some one made a bad choice. Mine also does not work with a 2450 I/OLinc. My meter showed no current being drawn by the +5 volts input of the probe. Input sensing voltage On or Off. Though my meter did show what maybe a small capacitor charging on +5 to Common. The Input seems to be using a single diode on the input. I had to use my meter to find which wire was the + Input as it had no white wire or stripe. Revision 1.0 2450: Probe Input Voltage: Input Current: 2450 Sensor to Ground Voltage: Sinking Current by probe: 6.10 Volts DC 4.95 mA. 3.68 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 11.88 Volts DC 10.68 mA. 3.67 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 17.90 Volts DC 16.60 mA. 3.67 Volts DC 0.13 mA. 11.35 Volts AC 5.66 mA. AC 4.15 Volts DC 0.13 mA. Quick check of a revision 1.8 2450: 11.88 Volts DC 3.66 Volts DC I used a small audio amplifier to listen to the sensor terminal to ground as my scope is not easy to get out. With any of the DC Voltage Inputs there was on click as the sensor voltage dropped. There was a constant Buzz with the AC Input. Notice the sensor voltage didn't go much lower with a higher voltage and current DC input. I also noticed the Green Sensor LED would sometimes flash briefly. Sorry if the chart got truncated by the forum software. Looked fine when I created it.