Brian H

Did you measure the AC voltage directly across the light itself?

LeeG, I believe you are thinking about the 6287 five amp wired in filter. Unfortunately it is discontinued. Though they may still be found on eBay. http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/model_6287.htm I have no personal information on the XPNR. Not sure how it would treat the Insteon 131.65 KHz power line signals. http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpnr.pdf http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Selecting_a_Filter I did find a schematic of the Leviton 6298. That the X10Pro cross reference says is the same as their XPNR. Will have to study it and try and figure out how it works. More data. Old Leviton Technical Manual says their 6289 In Line Noise Reducer. Filters noise above and below 121 kHz.

I edited my reply as you where replying. I hope I didn't sound like I was lecturing. Hope you find your answers. The Air Gap power cycle reset unlocking the switch. Does point to the controller getting locked up by maybe power line noise. I believe it is mentioned in the troubleshooting part of the full users manual. http://www.insteon.com/pdf/2466S.pdf

OK I followed the thread and saw you had a ToggleLinc Relay. The original post was a ToggleLinc Dimmer. They could be bad or extra sensitive to power line noise. Some CFL and LED bulbs can make power line noise. You may want to contact the Insteon Gold Support Group and get their thoughts. I see you have a post on the Smarthome Forums. They may have some added data for you. Keep us informed to progress you are making.

On the Togglelinc Dimmer sales page it says to use the Toggllinc Relay for things like CFLs and motors. http://www.smarthome.com/2466DW/ToggleL ... ite/p.aspx

Togglelinc Dimmer is not designed to run a motor, standard CFL bulb or standard LED bulb. Dimmable CFLs and LED bulbs may depend on the exact bulb. That could be your problem as you are turning on and off an incorrect type load. Even at 100% On the AC on the load connection is not a pure AC sine wave and things like motors, CFL bulbs and LED bulbs don't work correctly and maybe making enough power line garbage to lock up the Togglelinc.

You used the Start Linking method to add the Appliancelinc and not the New Insteon Device method of Link Management? Do you have any coupling between the phases? Like Access Points or Dual Band Devices that pass the built in communications tests? The PLM is it on the same circuit as the computer, a filtered surge strip or an UPS? Do you know if the bedroom has an Arc Fault Breaker feeding it?

You connected the PLM to the filtered outlet on the bottom or the pass through outlet on the front?

If you have space in the fans housing. The Fanlinc as garyfunk pointed out should work. As it can get the needed Line, Neutral and Load connections needed in the fans wiring. You would have to leave the manual wall switch On if you wanted to have the ability to disable the fan or bypass the switch for constant power to the fan. http://www.smarthome.com/2475F/FanLinc- ... and/p.aspx The other way would be rewire the switch loop to provide Line and Neutral to the old switches location. Replace the switch with a Switchlinc or Togglelinc dimmer. With the load wire capped off and then add an Inlinelinc in the fans housing. Linking the Insteon switch to the Inlinelinc.

I would second the possible power line noise or PLM. Have you changed anything in the house electronically or moved something to a different location? You may want to try the Scene Test in the Diagnostics tab and see if more data can be found.

OH that is a possibility. I personally had a similar situation and made a few duplicates myself.

There is a tutorial in the CocoonTech Forums on using a current sensing switch to determine if a device is On or Off. I believe it was written for an X10 Powerflash but I don't see anything in the CT800 sensors specifications that would prevent it from triggering an I/OLinc's Sensor Input. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/artic ... ensors-r58 Some modern power saving appliances may cycle on and off and is the only thing I though of that could possibly cause the sensor to cycle On and Off during the appliances run cycles. Side note. Multiple posts with the exact same questions are hard to keep track of.

Are the low wattage lights 120 volt or a low voltage type with a electronic power supply? Are the lights incandescent or another type. Like CFL LED etc.?

May depend on the Zwave modules layout. I have a Home Settings {Intermatic} HA20C 3-Way Toggle Switch and the FCC Database photos show the antenna on the face plate just behind the toggle mechanism. Close to the front of the electrical box. Dual Band Insteon 2477D and 2477S SwitchLinc photos show their antenna in the rear of the module. Near the back side of the module. Inside the electrical box. I would suspect a metal box may effect both, but the SwitchLinc maybe more effected than my HA20C is. Though I never did much with the Home Settings modules I got in a clearance sale. More of a how do they work test.

Extended warranty is no longer an avilable option. Though many have complained about the change.

I will echo LeeG's thoughts. May not be a good idea. As even at 100% the AC output is modified. Each device being controlled may act different than another device. Some may work. Some may just refuse to work. Some may look like they are working but fail with a shorter than normal lifetime. I know someone that ran a small AC wall wart on an X10 Socket Rocket that doesn't dim but uses a triac {dimming component in a LampLinc} always On at 100%. Worked for about a year and one day they noticed the case was melting.

Use the I/OLinc to switch in a second mechanical thermostat set to 60 degrees. Off the original set to 42 degrees and On switches in the added one set to 60 degrees. I believe the Insteon Thermostat may work with a two wire heat only control if you add a power supply to it or use the two wire heat only adapter Smarthome sells, for the Venstar Insteon enabled thermostats. http://www.smarthome.com/30418/Venstar- ... Kit/p.aspx

Just a thought as it is not ideal. I/OLinc's normally Open Relay Contacts. In parallel with the thermostat's two terminals. Turn On the I/OLInc the heat turns On. Though it will not sense the temperature and the heat will stay On until the I/OLInc is turned Off. Or use it to connect a second thermostat set to a higher temperature when On. No run away heat that way.

The I/OLinc has a built in voltage on its Sense Input and is designed for a dry contact not detecting a voltage. Not a good idea. Though the I/OLinc's voltage is 5 volts so it maybe alright.

Installed fine for me. Java did another update to 1.7.15 and it seems OK with 4.0.2. The ISY Finder is also now working like it use to.

If the siren output voltage is either +12 or +24 volts. Some have used the ELK single relay board with their security systems and an I/OLinc Sensor Input. http://www.smarthome.com/1299/ELK-912B- ... olt/p.aspx There is also a 12 volt only model also. http://www.smarthome.com/7278/ELK-912-S ... ard/p.aspx

I believe that 4.0.2 when released. Will have the Finder bug corrected.

You may want to update your firmware to the latest official release. That way all the replies would be for the latest released firmware. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=10602

On a DB9 serial cable common is pin 5. The TTL signals are not in the provided cable and are not any RS232 signal.

Small incandescent night light bulb also works. Some if technically inclined. Have added a resistor on the load to calm down the glow.