Brian H

I don't believe Smarthome/Smartlabs puts the modules firmware version on the modules anymore. They did on the older ones. The V number on the module is a hardware version and will not match the firmware version ISY is displaying.

Do you have a thermostat that has a humidity sensor in it? The T1700 One day does not have that option, but it has been found to cause all kinds of varied humidity reports; with the V2 adapter. There is a fix posted in a thread here if yours is a T1700. Basically you have to solder two pads on the T1700s PC Board to stop the constant humidity swings.

I do a factory reset on all my new modules before installation. Some module did get out of factory with test addresses in them.

http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... r_Messages I am sure the UDI team will have a cause in mind to explain the error.

I believe this thread may help you. http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... c&start=15

The T1700 one day thermostats don't have a place for a Humidity Sensor and can give bogus readings. Smarthome had a fix of soldering the open humidity sensors pads to common if memory serves me.

The T1700 one day can not have the optional humidity sensing module installed like the T1800 seven day can.

The Dual Band Lamplinc can be used in place of an Access Point.

Insteon modules should remember their links and scenes as the settings are in an EEPROM and needs no power to keep the settings correct. Heck I have Appliance Lincs with old data in them for months unplugged. My SwitchLinc relay also had no problems after my 22 hour power loss a few weeks ago. You do have a Neutral Power wire available for the 220 Volt Switchlinc as the control part is 120 volts.

What receiver are you using for the IR-3000?

Access Points are needed for any Insteon RF device. Including the RemoteLinc and modules others have mentioned. There has also been threads indicating to not use the older SignalLinc RF modules at all.

Not sure if it is normal in all setups, but I have seen other reports of flickering. Especially if almost to the minimum dim setting the CFL can stay on at.

Installed with no problems.

I made a test board with outlets; Input Line power switch; input line fuse; light socket and a set of terminal strips to tie them together. By moving jumpers around I can test plug in modules and hard wired modules. You are not alone. I test ever module and wired in module before installing it. I also have a list of ID numbers so I don't have to remove wall plates or crawl behind furniture to get an ID.

The controller chip in the module maybe lost. Though still responding indicates other wise. Anyway try turning off the breaker to it for maybe 30 seconds and see if it then acts better. If not it may be damaged and the relay in it is stuck on or the electronics is keeping it on.

No. I have one in the tabletop case Smarthome sells. No load on it.

If you look at the list of choices. You will see the Insteon Device Code in the left column. I am thinking one is an earlier revision InLineLinc with less features. The v00 also shows the revision of the firmware was not known. Auto Discover may have worked better than manually picking from the list.

I don't have one of those 220 volt switches, but it looks like a 120 Volt SwitchLinc Relay combined with a power relay who's coil is 120 volts and switches both live wires. Thus the Neutral power wire is needed. I bet your old one was maybe a X10Pro XPS2 [i don't have the X10 part number at hand] and since it drew current on both lines. The GFI never saw enough current imbalance to trip. #4 Two thoughs. The neutral you picked was on for a different branch and the GFI detected it as a leakage condition between branches. The other thought is the 120 volt SwitchLinc was causing the Lines to not be balanced as only one powers the Switchlinc and again it tripped. I hope someone has a few thought for you on this. Maybe someone that got a Simplehomenet EZSwitch30 to work as it also uses one line and neutral for power while switching both hot lines.

Yes the power line derived power supplies use a capacitor for the voltage drop and mess up many meter readings because of the phase shift. I also use a Kill A Watt when I do tests.

The Leviton 8287 is a wired in filter and is rated at five amps. Is the CFL dimmable? Using a dimmer type switch on a CFL can sometimes lead to noise and reliability problems. Even if you are only using it at 100%.

Mine installed fine over 2.7.12 Only thing I had to do was download the 99i Administrative Console as it went away during the update; or at least the icon on the desktop went away.

Yes from what I have read it is accumulated heat. If there is a relay type or regular switch between them. The reducing the wattage is not needed. The InLineLinc maybe lower as most times it is not screwed to an electrical box. That could absorb some of the heat. I don't know if there is any electrical code related to switches in a ceiling.

Just one thing to remember. If you mount the SwitrchLinc Dimmers next to each other in a switch box. Each one has to have its maximum wattage rating lowered by 200 watts.

That sounds too warm. Where you doing anything that may have kept it transmitting signals like in a Query or adding many items to the network? It could have been some power line spike confused the PLMs microcontroller and it locked into a strange state. The power cycle may have cleared it. If you let it cool down could you then reconnect to the ISY and Admin Console?

Skylinc makes the Insteon Motion Sensor for Smarthome/Smartlabs.