Brian H

In the configuration tab. Isn't the check box's for Catchup Schedules at restart and Missed Scheduled Grace Period are for?

I agree that for the Door and Window Sensor. A TriggerLinc and magnetic switch maybe better for some installations. I believe the I/OLinc kit may have been released before the TriggerLinc was being sold. I did get the Flood Stop Sensor [part of the now on hold I/OLinc Flood Detector Kit] to work with my kit. Had to add a few electronic parts to get the proper on off sense with water. I also had to use the +5 Volt output from the I/OLinc to do what I wanted. I found a problem with the Proximity Switch Kit and posted my findings. So far; one month now; Smarthome still has not updated the on line Quick Start Guide to fix the hung On relay problem.

If you have not looked at the I/OLinc data on the wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... 27s_Manual Many do use the sensor input for varied tasks. Smarthome sells many of their I/OLinc kits that use the Sensor Input to trigger an event or toggle modules linked to it. Rain Sensor, Remote Door Strike, Telephone Ringing Detector to name a few.

I don't think the exact revision where the change was reported. I know my Rev 2.0 and 2.1 are the old style without an Air Gap switch and are reset in the earlier method. Did you know the Rev 5.0 and above now have a Load Sensing connection and the Load can be isolated from the Line? It is now rated at 15 amps also. Yes the full manual looks like it has not been updated. Maybe the wiki pages will have more data. New Guick Guide for Rev 5.0: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2476sqs.pdf http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2476S_Manual

Yes the older SLR and Icons had no Air Gap Switch and the alternate reset was used. The new units now have the Air Gap Switch. So your older ones are normal.

That sensor relies on the conductance of the water it is detecting. It is not a dry closure like a switch contact and maybe hundreds of ohms when wet. That can lead to all kinds of problems; if the TriggerLinc needs a good low resistance closure to be reliable. I did read correctly. You only are using the sensor and not the whole Moisture meter Board that has added electronic parts to interface with the moisture sensor. Smarthome is using a similar sensor in their Flood Detect Kit with an I/OLinc and some are having problems with theirs. I measured my sensor wet [looks bigger than the one you have and may have more surface area] and it measures eight hundreds ohms when wet with my water that corrodes copper pipes from the inside. Just found their Flood Detector Kit is marked as "Unavailable while improvements and enhancements are added." IMHO the sensor will be different in the updated kit. Side note. My I/OLinc's sensor LED can be partially on with a resistive load but not be pulled low enough to trigger the event. My tests show 1000 Ohms where a I/OLInc is marginally triggered.

There is a users manual for the I/OLinc on Smarthome's wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... %27s_Guide No sure if it will assist you in understanding the I/OLinc.

The sensing current is always there. The Local Sensing on and off only tells the firmware to ignore or process the sensed changes. X10 has similar or even worse current on theirs. Some users have wired a resistor across the load to squelch the current. The older X10 fix is a 4 watt standard night light bulb on the load. You are not alone with the LED type lights. I have tested a few brands myself and they all tend to glow when off.

Salad Core sounds more like a 2414S PLC than a 2412S PLM. They are 100% different from each other. No the 2412S and 2414S/U can not have their firmware flashed by end users. The Salad Core is a program loaded into the PLCs programming memory.

Some of the PLMs had their cables inside the box's inside cushions for the module and they where black. Besides the Blue ones packed externally.

I would not plug the PLM into the power until the ISY99i is connected to it first and using the correct cable. The Black one as mentioned is not the correct one and is just part of a standalone PLMs included parts.

Maybe time to call Smarthome and get two replacements for the battery killers. Sounds like they are not going into suspend mode and draining the batteries to fast.

Thanks for the added tests and results.

IM; Thanks for the tests and information. It will be a great help to many.

On the sales pages for the switches and modules. You will find links to the complete users manuals. They are much better than the one sheet quick guides. The factory reset is covered in those manuals. I believe the latest SwitchLinc Relays may now have a power disconnect switch on the set tab. Only the dimmer types use to have them. So the procedure maybe different if you have the newer Relay types.

Well if no other modules are giving you any problems. It does sound like the Icon has gone bad.

You may also want to try. Unplugging it and then waiting for 30 seconds then plug it back in. Sometimes a short power glitch can lock up a module. I have had to power cycle a few of mine from time to time.

Unless the newest LampLincs where redone. NO problem. All of mine [yes I peaked] the Green Ground wire goes from the rear male pins to the female output pin and does not even connect to the internal PCB board. If you could connect the adapters ground wire to a grounded screw. Then anything on the LampLincs output that used a ground would have one.

Yes I have a pair of Access Points and both of them flash their LEDs with both X10 and Insteon messages.

Pressing the Bright button to exit, toggles the Beeper On and Off. The All Off toggles the LED On and Off.

Yes the two beeps. I accidentally let go of the Bright Button too soon and I believe the reset didn't take.

I have not seen anything on the LED flashing about every 8-10 seconds. Mine do the same thing. So any more data would be nice to hear. Mine are the Rev 1.0's. By chance what does the sticker say on yours?

Mike; That is what I finally did in my home. Took the time to map every electrical outlet; switch and light. To each breaker. Well 99% anyway. There was one outlet that is never used; behind a china closet. Since I moved in and is never used.

Also are the flashing lights controlled by any non automated switches. Like a dimmer?

I have also seen the same thing. Old ApplianceLincs I had. Where touchy to a few of my loads. The new ones with the same loads where fine.