Brian H

If you want the BusyRats PLM test program let me know. It is extremely crude and you manually type in the commands and then send and receive messages from a PLM. Information is in the PLM Developers Guide that can be found in a few locations. The same basic commands used by the DockLight Scripting entries. I tried the DockLight program and it seemed to also run the program fine. So the scripting version may not be a requirement as it didn't complain. The X10 commands should just be sent and a 06 ACK on the message back. I have an X10 module I can test with to see if they also where being sent messages.

The script I used is for the DockLight Scripting. My file is PLM.ptp. I found a way to modify the one of the Smarthome versions. For my use. Running the programs should open DockLight Scripting to the evaluation page. Just click OK as you will be in the limited evaluation mode. If you are using COM1 you should be fine. If you have a different COM port. Tools Project settings and pick your COM port and then OK. Get Version 02 60 should get a reply back. With the 02 60 then the three digit module ID, the category, sub category ID's, firmware version, ending with a 06 ACK if processed properly. Get IM config 02 73 should return a 02 73 00 00 00 06. If the PLM has not been reconfigured. 02 69 First Link in database should return the first link in the PLM. If empty the reply is 02 69 15. Get next link 02 6A will return the next link or a 15 if empty. Look out for the Reset 02 67. It is the command to factory reset the PLM through software PLM.ptp

Did you turn off both units and then start the PLM first. So when the Polisy started up it found the PLM? A Factory Reset will set everything back to blank state with no links in the link database. I don't have a Polisy so I cant tell you how to back it up. There are two PLM test programs we in the Developers Group got but they need the PLM serial cable, a serial port on the computer. They used the basic HEX commands to do things like software Factory Reset, test for a response from the PLM and dump a link in the link database. If you have to use a USB to Serial Port adapter one only used the lower COM addresses.

One point that may or no apply. The PLM only used three connections. Common, RS232 Send and RS232 received. There are other connections on the PLM that should not be connected. RJ45 pin 3 and pin 6 are TTL. If connected to the wrong thing may effect the PLM operation. Are you only connecting the two RS232 signals and Common? Cable in the box. DB9S pin 2 to RJ45 Pin 1, DB9S pin 3 to RJ45 pin 8, DB9S pin 5 to RJ45 pin 7.

I have had a few wall warts fail. With my assortment of UDI products. ISY99i and ISY994i. One was so weak when I did a power on reboot. All that happened was the LEDs started to flash in a cycle. I ended up putting a LightDim stick on to reduce the Power LED brightness. I used the original 50% to 80% version.

One other possibility is the Starlink Power supply is making power line noise or is a signal sucker. Especially if the Insteon modules are the older power line only model. Is the Starlink supply connected on the same power feed as the ISY994i and PLM? A PLM link count may also show something. Though it can be wrong if their is any Insteon messages during the count.

Sounds like a big improvement. Both switches have to be an Insteon or Icon for both to work correctly. I used an Insteon switch module and a mechanical switch. In my case I wired both travelers to the Red output. So either mechanical setting still worked with the Insteon module and the switch did nothing. Glad it works OK for you.

If it is a 2477S Dual Band Module. Page 12 gives the Factory Reset sequence. Remebber if it is in a 3 way setup. All the setting are gone and it will function like a new switch with no links. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2477S-en.pdf

Yes

How old is the 2476S? The original 2476S that does not have the Air Gap switch part of the Set Button assembly. Has a different Factory Reset procedure. I can get it for you if needed. If there is no Air Gap switch. Pulling out the Set Button would not turn it Off. If uninstalled you should be able to look through the case and see if there is a switch. What type load is on the 2476D modules? Yes they all are single band power line only modules. Not 100% sure if a 2466sw working and the others not. Is a total test. Can you splice one into a power cord and plug it into the same outlet as the PLM as a test?

Depending on its age and model number. There was a period of time where the 2476S Relay style and 2476S dimmer style SwitchLinc. Had a bad run of tact switches. The paddle would activate the switch and it would click but not make internal contact. Some only the Off or On switch and sometimes both. Remote controlling was perfectly fine. Smarthome actually gave us a 7 year warranty on that series of models. Your description sounds like it maybe a tact switch. Sometimes fine, some times bad and some times wiggle the paddle it would work. I did see a how to on replacing them and I believe someone here has done it.

Is the switch a 2486D in the 8 button mode? It used snap on key tops and you could put printed paper labels in it. They may have aged and changed color. It also has a button press sequence to set the button illumination levels. If it is the early one with snap on key covers. Variable Backlight Brightness KeypadLinc Dimmer’s button backlighting can be set to two different brightness levels. • If six key button plate is installed, simultaneously press the “A” and “D” buttons to toggle between backlight levels. • If eight key button plate is installed, simultaneously press the “C” and “F” buttons to toggle between backlight levels

Long shot here. Try it with the paddle removed on the chance it is pushing on the off button all the time. From your description another thing could be its bower supply is failing. Can you talk to it with the ISY994i?

I still use the query all. As I have a intermittent 2456S3 Appliancelinc. That occasionally gets locked up. I believe by power line noise.

If it has a Power Integration LNK model power supply controller. I would look at the 6.8uF 250V and definitely the 100uF 35V caps. With out seeing a schematic can't be 100% but it sure looks like a switching power supply and poor capacitors. Like in the 2413 PLM and some other Insteon modules. Where a questionable low voltage supply cap was used.

I found the same things in my Insteon use. I was an early Developers Group member and paid for the documentation with an NDA agreement. One day the group just went away (I did not see any warning messages) and the documentation, I had an NDA on just got released to public domain. Then we have the lack of information on the Alert and Siren modules. Causing UDI to reverse engineer the modules features and setting to the best of their abilities.

The PLM has a Link Database Memory in it. If it gets corrupt it can cause communications issues. Power cycling and resets can sometimes get a weak power supply going for a short while. A weak power supply may also effect the power line signal. I honestly can't see a rebuild changing the processor or RF control chip as both are programmed with firmware only Smarthome has access to. Unless salvaged from another PLM or they mistakenly didn't set the protection bit. So you could read the firmware back into a file. The PLM does have two 5 position programming connections. Main and Rf for the chips. The memory chip and RS232 chip probably could be exchanged. Long thread here on how we changed our caps and symptoms. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

The 2412U has the same ~2000 link database in it as the 2412S. It is probably like the 2412S and the ISY994i. The ram is slower and many had problems around 800 Links. If the PLM database was fresh abd all the devices had to be added. Every link is every device has to be updated with the new PLMs address. Along with the modules added to the new PLM. The 2413PLM is serial as pointed out. Just used a RJ45 network style cable. Some here have made a cable to go from the 2413S PLM to a DB9 serial type connection, if needed.

If the power bar had a surge and noise suppressor in it. The bar can also absorb power line signals as noise. I had one with a capacitor across the line and it killed the signals. Watch your power needs. The X10 XPPF is only a 5 amp filter or the XPF 20 amp one is quite large. The Smarthome FilterLinc was 10 amps but hard to find these days.

I took another look and the Licon brand was in my 4.? versions. If it is a 4.? with the cap parallel to the board. You should sill be able to use the original sized 470mfd/35V. I had one of the 30 volt Zener diodes short. Under the cap. I got lucky and replaced it and the cap for good measure. Since it is around a 30 volt supply. The 35 volt cap should be fine. Depending on size a 50 volt would also work with a larger voltage tolerance but probably a larger size. Longer or fatter depending on what you try to use.

I had a few go bad myself. One was On and started to pulse on and off at about a two second cycle. Mine was a green cased NOVER brand cap. It is not a high frequency supply. It is a half wave circuit. 30 cycles on the cap. Not like what was in the PLM and another few Insteon modules. I just got a good quality Panasonic 470mfd/35V designed for power supply use. Panasonic EEU-FC1V471 but any good brand should be OK. They where taller but still have room to close the top cover. This is the Icon version of the V1.4. The V4.? used the same capacitor just a 100% different design. I have used that capacitor in a V4 and my V1 modules. In the V4 it is sideways parallel to the board and has some component glue holding it. https://efundies.com/guides/insteon/hardware/paritial_schematic_of_insteon_icon_on-off_module/icon_on_off_schematic.png

In the real early days of Insteon. We saw a list of other vendors wanting to use the Insteon Technology. It quietly vanished and big name players chose Zwave instead. Hope history doesn't repeat itself.

That is too bad. Same old numbskulls who took years to even find out they where using the wrong type memory in a PLM.

You may have a power line issue. Any new devices like a cell phone charger or any other electronic devices? Some are known signal suckers or power line noise makers? Unplugging a device and seeing if things chance is one test. A deteriorating presently installed device could also be a factor.

The PLM is 120VAC 60CY only. Are you using the neutral and one of the hot wires or a 220 to 120 adapter. The only other PLM problem I have seen mentioned by the now gone Smarthome. Was some serial port interface chips where being damaged. I know at V2.3 a more static tolerant chip was used and at 2.4 they added a protective network on the two serial port signals to the outside world.