Brian H

The Green parts are small coils not caps. The beeper already covered. Does it go on and off when the relay clicks. If it is always on then the information below may help. If it goes on and off then I would suspect things like the three electrolytic capacitors. If you have access to a meter. With it disconnected from the house wiring. The resistance between the Black Line and Red Output wires should be very high. If it is low the relay might have stuck contacts. I don't think the module has a snubber across the relay contacts to protect it from possible spikes from the fluorescent light. Not too hard but give the relay a firm mechanical tap and see if it temporarily works again.

Techman has a very good idea. If you see more than one command. Then the I/OLinc maybe fine and just following orders. If it is not being sent more than one command. You can see if the opener works correctly. By tapping the set button on the side. It should toggle the relay on and off. Not sure if you opener normally uses a pule from a relay. My though would be C7. My V 1.0 had a 10uF/25V. A V 1.8 10uF/50V laying sideways as it was too large to sit in the solder holes. My V 2.3 220uF/50V also mounted sideways. 25V is low as the supply is around 20V. 10uF maybe low as it has to supply all the current when the relay turned on. Maybe possible if the cap is going bad. The relay my double pulse. I don't think they where a capacitor designed for a switching power supply also. I have a list of all of the caps in them if you are interested.

Glad you got it working again. Since it is power line only. It just could have been line garbage causing it to have some bad information in it. That your actions corrected. It has a switching power supply in it and there where a few different capacitors used. Keeping an eye on it may show it is fine or the problem happens again.

Can you describe the connections? Like the sensor is connected to the sensor input of the I/OLinc, the relay output from the I/OLinc is triggering the gates opener. Relay set to the default continuous or has a momentary on time.

Not correct. The Smartenit, the one in the PLM box or the home made cable. Only carry three connections. I got the feeling many PLM users didn't find the included cable in the boxes cardboard cradle holding the PLM. All of mine had a cable in the box's cardboard cradle. That Smarthome didn't mark on the cradle or add in the Quick Start Sheet. The one in your link carries all the 8 connections and does not connect the correct needed signal pins. May also connect the two not used but available for other uses TTL connections. In the 2413S to something that TTL signals should not be connected too. If you go with the Star Tech. Only use the three connections in the how to threads and make sure none of the other wires are connected and they are insulated so they touch nothing else. Due to the PLM situation. It is possible some users are putting their 2412S PLM back in use. There where two major versions. The older had a 417 link database and you could fill it quite easily. The later had a ~ 2000 link database and on a ISY99i anymore than ~800 links would sometimes start missing link records. I suspect it may have been the speed of the EEPROM and the way the database has to be addressed. Also the 2412S has a unregulated +12VDC (around 19.5VDC) 400mA output. Could run an ISY99i and ISY994i through the serial cable.

How soon we see the PLM Pro. Maybe dependent on if any of the part stock was in house when they started to go down south. Before the new crew took over and are trying to keep Insteon above water. With the part shortages it could take awhile to even start a production run of the PLM Pro. If it was a priority but I got the impression it was not.

Not very encouraging but looks the way it does. Thank you for your continued support as far as you can go.

They are surface mounted and I would expect most users can't do surface mounted parts safely with out a good chance of a damaged part or maybe a finger. There is a very good chance the 2413 and UDI designed PLM. Do not use the same basic part for their controller. So a swap would probably not work even if you could safely do a surface mounted part correctly. I also would not trust Smartlabs 2413 designs to have too much of a safety margin on their designs. So upgrades maybe questionable. Especially with the power supply section's history of poorly chosen capacitors. I checked my archives. The UDI PLM was about 8 years ago. When Smartlabs pulled the plug and stuck UDI with unusable prototypes. I can understand why in 8 years some parts go obsolete or 2 year lead times.. Since the 2413 and UDI version PLM. Have either long lead times for the part or the parts are obsolete. I can see the trying to go with the PLM Pro and Nokia HUBs as the best way to try and go. Although right now that looks like a muddy situation.

I have not seen anything like that myself. I do know the link database is on the daughter board. I actually have an early 2412S where they used the daughter board from a 2414S PLC. It has the giant 24LC256 EEPROM memory chip on it since the PLC could have programs download into it and run disconnected from the computer. Though it only used the original 417 link size and not the full space in the chip. It also has a RTC clock chip with backup battery also not used. I believe it was a firmware limitation. The 2413S used a 24FC64 that has a faster access time. If you wanted to over clock it you would probably have to mess with the timing in the controller chip as their is only one clock chip on it for Insteon and a second controller for Insteon RF with its own timing chip.

I got the same update today from Ken. So I must have been added to their mailing lists recently.

I totally agree. I have seen UDI burned a few times myself. Also how they just dropped with out warning. The Developers Group. We paid money for and an NDA. All of a sudden was gone and the documentation was available for a time to everybody. I thanked you before but I do appreciate the reveres engineering to get the Siren and Alert Modules working.

Where you using the A10/X0 add on firmware? Wiki indicates. "Using the A10/X10 module A10 and X10 devices can be added to the node tree." Yes the 2448A7 wireless interface, is strictly Insteon RF signaling. So you would loose X10.

Some of the 2635-222 On/Off adapters where worse. The backs on some cracked and fell apart very easily. I have some cracked and not use able still new in the shipping box. Unlike the Lamplinc they also used flat head screws and the tapered tops just where asking to let me crack the case.

If it is the one in the FCC Database. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm SBP22342 Expanded operation to 100-240VAC and 50/60Hz. Increased Insteon links storage from ~1000 to ~4,000 links with faster read/writes Uses the same communication protocol and structure to match earlier models Updated all processors with increased memory space and speed Beefed up electronics to reduce failures due to AC-mains electrical spikes, noise and heat from poorly ventilated install locations New and smaller enclosure that matches other Insteon plug-in products Increased power line transmitting signaling levels and robustness New RF circuit with higher sensitivity components and calibrated antenna circuit Changed USB translator circuit from FDTI to Microchip with built-in Windows support and hassle-free use with Mac OSs . External photo shows a separate AC Plug assembly. So in the future it could easily be changed to another countries power standards and allowed RF frequency.

If you left the older Insteon devices and they still can control themselves. I believe a remove PLM command goes out and removes the PLM addresses from all the module. So they are not trying to communicate wit a now gone PLM.

If the power supply is starting to go bad. It can cause all kinds of issues. I have had a few fail myself. Not all on one controller but over my ISY26 to ISY99i and then the ISY994i. One of mine was working maybe slightly flaky and then I did a power reset. It never came back up. Even the power On LED was flashing along with the LED on the supply itself. Take a wide range of voltages 5V to 30V. 2.1mm center pin 5.5 mm barrel. UDI sells a replacement of 12V 2A last time I looked. Some of mine where 5V 500mA.

Since almost all presently available X10 devices are strictly receive only. They have no power line transmitter to even reply to a interrogation if it was available.

From what I have seen. They purchased the base 2412 and then 2413 PLM base units and added their own custom daughter board to them. I have a few of their modules and they are on the 2412 boards and case. Along with their custom Daughter Board. Then when they started having issues with the 2413 boards power supplies and this is noted in their Forums. Just like us. They went back to the purchase of 2412 boards assemblies made just for them. My guess is they are also out of everything for the same reason we are. Company status and if the new owners decide what is going the be made again. The parent company is Compacta and you may see that name in the some of the ISY Devices Lists. The older name was SimpleHomeNet and they changed the name to Smartenit.

The 5010V Lot4R is also internet things enabled and is only 4 outputs as previously pointed out. So it will not work for an EZEye digital or analog output. https://docs.smartenit.com/iot4r/iot4r_quick-start.pdf If you are not using the analog output on the EZEye its digital output would probably interface with many other dry contact input devices. Like an I/OLinc or external input on an Insteon Open Closed Sensor. Both would need the external 12 volt supply to power the EZEye module. I have an EZEye coming and may have some more information in maybe a week. As the instruction sheet is confusing between the needed power 8-20VDC and its output type and possible voltage restrictions. I know the I/OLinc has a 5 volt Sensor voltage and if the EZEye has a Dry contact relay or open collector output. It should work. The open closed sensor maybe too low as it is a battery voltage run unit.

You may want to look at the 1011A EZEye sales page on the resource tab. For the manual and its needs. It has four wire connections. +8 to 20VDC,Analog Output,Digital Output and Ground. Has a pot to adjust sensitivity. It uses 8VDC to 20VDC to run but says +12VDC in the EZEye manual. The other SimpleHomeNet and Smartenit modules have a +12V output. The manual indicates a wall wart 12V supply is needed for the EZIO2x4 as it can't supply enough current on its I/O Connectors. Some of the other models do have a +12VDC on their I/O Connectors. The digital and analog outputs are independent so either one can be used or both can. I have some of the manuals for their products. As I had trouble finding the older manuals for previous models. Let me know if you need any. https://smartenit.com/shop/ezeye/

If they are a low voltage LED driven by an electronic driver assembly. Verify it is designed to be driven by a dimmer style Insteon Switch. I believe you can set all those things on the Options menu for the switch and in the Scene it is in.

I found the installation information on the up again Insteon support web site. It did not say anything about changing the 2450 I/OLinc from its default continuous relay output.

Does the wiring diagram on the side of the unit. Show the voltage is always On one of the two direction wires. With internal limit switches. I don't suppose there was a information sheet in the box? I tied finding the manual for it but all I could find was a manual bypass instructions and they said remove the control voltage before using. That would also indicate one direction input has a voltage on it all the time. Part Number 7450? Is that maybe a kit ID for all the needed parts? The I/OLinc 2450 in your diagram should be set to continuous relay output. If it needs a voltage on one of the valves control wire all the time. Only thing maybe a power failure. If the relay is in the on position it will go off but so will the wall wart valve control voltage and go back on when power is restored.

If the relay was off at power loss it will be off at power up. If the relay was on at power loss it will be on at power up.

This is part of the Smarthome Forum message. They thought a 302545 may just fit. "For what it is worth, the battery in the Mini Remote is accessible and looks like it can be replaced fairly easily. The LIPO (3.7v) battery has a capacity of 300mAh and measures 3mm tall, 25mm wide and 45mm long. For search and id purposes these dimensions are typically denoted as "302545" Clearances within the mini are fairly tight so I'm not sure how much variance from these measurements is tolerable."