Brian H

After seeing the foot dragging by Smarthome/Smartlabs on getting the data to UDI. I doubt I will be purchasing any new models until the UDI firmware will support it.

I/O Linc is a power line only module. So RF directly to it is not used. Possibly an RF issue to a Dual Band Module close to it that was passing the command to the I/O Linc. More likely you have spotty power line communications to the I/O Linc and the added commands when adding it have issues. On and Off are much simpler commands. I have seen other reports here. Where adding a module needed it close to the PLM but where fine after adding them in their normal location.

I hope they do send the API. In another thread. Michel indicated someone has sent him some communication dump files but not the API and hope to get it into a future 5.xx firmware.

Part of the confusion is in electronics the state with no magnet is called out and security setting when the magnet moved out of the position when the zone is satisfied.. So a normally closed sensor would be with no magnet. To an electronic technician. When the same exact sensor is called out in a security setting it is for a normally open system. As the violated zone is when the magnet is moved away from the sensor. Allowing it to close.

Your tests and description of what is happening. Sounds like it may have failed.

You may want to try a power cycle reset. Pull the Set Button out to open the built in Air Gap Switch. Wait thirty seconds. Push the Set button back into its normal position using care not to go all the way in and do a Factory Reset. You could also just turn the circuit breaker off for thirty seconds. The Power Cycle reset would restart the electronics on the change they got scrambled. Maybe by noise. You are not using the two wire 2474 Switchlinc are you?

If you try and do live readings. Use caution as the module has a power line derived power supply. I don't know about the micro modules. I do know the older things like the 2456S3 and 2456D. Both have the + Logic power connection directly on the Line Input. I looked at both the dimmer and relay style FCC Internal photos. Looks like each Sense Input wire connects to two surface mounted resistors in series. Marked 3303. The other end of the resistors looks like it has some diodes and resistors that connect to the 8 pin IC in the same location. Can't read the part number but it maybe an optoisolator to isolate the Sense Inputs from the unisolated AC floating around in the module. I think the Sense Inputs are a fairly high impedance and not a rugged as the 1000 volt rating for the AC surges. The newer model Insteon devices I have looked at. Use a 3.3 volt DC power so you may see what looks like a low logic supply voltage but it is most likely OK.

I doubt you will find schematics of the module. In the FCC Database there are all of the Dual Band devices. Including the Micro Modules https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm Smartlabs allowed the internal and external photos along with the test results to be public access but the schematics were kept confidential. You can take the FCC ID on the module and put the needed information into the web form. Then pick the details choice after the search. The public data is available for you to see or download. All the pages have the same name. So change it for your download. The Grantee Code is SBP for the Smartlabs devices. The Product Code is the rest of the FCC ID.

Thank you for the PLM information. My V2.1 has the same 9E Firmware in it. So yours may have different components in it.

If you run the Event Viewer in Level 3. What does it report when you try and add it? You can use the copy to clipboard function and then post it here. What firmware is in your ISY994i and does the UI version match the firmware version?

The original LightDims web page. Indicates around a 80% reduction in brightness. Depending on the LED's color and brightness. My Blue Power LED on my ISY994i is a nice brightness with one covering it. In my case the 100% blockage ones would be too much. http://www.lightdims.com/

Even if the power cycle. Fixes the no PLM found. It most likely will fail again in a short time period. If the PLM is not a recent one that just got locked up. When mine went bad. After a power cycle. It worked maybe twenty four hours before dying for good.

Yes the latest firmware should have some improvements in it and maybe correct flaws. Smarthome does not publicly post firmware change notices and I am not even sure if the Developers are getting the information. Now that the Developers Group was disbanded.

The new one will have the latest firmware in it.

Glad to read the rebuilt PLM is working now.

Smarthome is now showing them in stock. Amazon had some a day ago and expects more by 04/09/16. So hopefully your new one will arrive shortly.

Another thing to check on. Are there any new electronic devices in the home or an existing electronic device moved to a new location? Chargers for portable electronics can also be a problem sometimes. On the back of the 2413S PLM are some stickers. They will give a date code and hardware revision.

No schematics that I have seen so this is from what I see in the FCC Database internal photos. What looks like four triacs on the PCB/ Heat Sink. Photos not quite clear enough to read the part number. I would say one is for the light dimmer control and three for the fan motor speed. Also I see two large Mylar capacitors and I suspect they are switched into and out of the fan output. Depending on what speed is chosen. Could also be that High connects the line to the fan output and medium and low switch one of the capacitors into the fan motor output.

Was the fan set to its high speed setting for use with the Fanlinc? If it has electronic speed controls. Did you have to bypass it to use the Fanlinc?

NO you need a dry closure. No external voltage should be put on the Sensor Input. The I/O Linc has a 5 volt signal on its Sensor Input that you pull to the Ground terminal on it. A relay controlled by a 12 volt signal from the DSC controller would do the trick. If the DSC panel does not have any dry contact outputs. Both of the two relays below. Have a diode across the relay coil to protect the DSC panel 12 Volt DC output. When switched on and off from inductive voltages from the coil. This ELK Relay will do both 12 and 24 volts DC. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912b-relay-module-12-24-volt.html This one 12 volts DC only. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912-spdt-relay-board.html You would use the 12 volt DC output to control the relay. Then use the relay's Common connected to the I/O Linc ground terminal and the Normally Open to the I/O Linc Sensor Input. When the 12 volts DC pulls in the relay. It will turn the Sensor Input On.

Thank you for the very detailed instructions on creating custom KPL Buttons

I have also used the original LightDims that reduce the brightness about 70%. They work well.

I would depend on the the oven. The sensor would have to slip over one of the incoming power connections. Maybe where the line cord is internally connected to the oven. If it is a 220 volt model. One of the incoming lines. This guide was for a Dryer but should give you added information on how it can be done. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

If the sensors are just close enough to activate every time and there is any vibrations or slight movements they may false. You may want to see if you can find their gap specifications. They do make security sensors that are rated as Large Gap and have a much wider gap between the magnet and sensor where they work. .

You could use a MAMAC Systems CT800 {solid core} or CT805 {split core and can be snapped over a wire without disconnecting it} current sensor. To trigger an I/OLinc. If you have access to the oven's wiring. So you can slip the sensor over the one of the AC input wires to sense when it is On. The CT800 senses .5 Amp to 200 Amp currents and has a dry contact output. That can trigger the sensor input of the I/OLInc. If the oven has some electronic controls. You may have to pick the AC line not powering the controls as .5 amps to the controls may trigger it.