Brian H

http://www.amazon.com/Insteon-2475F-FanLinc-Dual-Band-Controller/dp/B00715SU4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463503764&sr=8-1&keywords=insteon+fan+controller Notice the seller is Smarthome through Amazon.

As pointed out. The schematic is incorrect. Your photo shows it is also a AC power line derived supply and is not safe to use external wiring. The 5 volts to ground is also indicating a power supply referenced back to the Line or Neutral. Depending on the exact circuit.

I can see why you are confused. It looks like the 2N2222 is not wired the way I expected. Maybe because the original modification is for a security alarm zone. The external output should not be using the Base of the transistor. May have to look this over and see what may work. In case you missed it in my earlier post. Measure with your meter from each speaker lead to a good safety ground for any AC or DC voltages. If the receiver does not have a polarized AC input plug and can be plugged in either direction. Reverse it in the outlet and measure it again.

I suspect the large inrush starting current may have damaged the relays used to control the outlets. Especially if the compressor got short cycled. I will see if I can read the relay model number and its markings in the FCC Database.

The 2N2222 may work. Make sure the Collector is the one on the Sensor Input and the Emitter on the Ground. If your receiver is AC powered and you find AC back to safety ground. Maybe we can find you a optocoupler that may work. Smarthome use to make a low voltage probe for the older X10 version of a I/O Linc but it had to be slightly modified to work on the Insteon version. As the nice 1/8" stereo type connector on the end was wired incorrectly for the Insteon I/O Linc.

I believe the Gene brand is similar to the one I tested. I bought a Chamberlan 903LM 3-Door Multi-Function Control Panel. To dissect and see how it works. The each button has a LED and resistor in them from the Red + to White - terminal. So they glowed in dark places. The Door Switches short the Red to White connections. The Light Switch connects a 1uf/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The Lock Switch connects a 22uF/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The control board must be able to determine what you want to do. By what is connected between the Red and White wires. Since the LED's and Capacitors have polarity. The Red has to be + and the White -

Before connecting any external wiring to the speaker wires. You should do a safety check to test for a possible shock hazard. Using your meter. Check each speaker wire in the doorbell receiver to a good safety ground. For AC or DC voltages between the speaker wires and safety ground. If the Doorbell receiver has unpolarized AC input prongs. Reverse the doorbell receiver in the wall outlet and check the speaker wires again to safety ground. There is a chance the doorbell receiver may use a power line derived power supply and its internal power supply may be referenced to the AC power line input.

Any 2413S with a hardware higher than 2.0 should have the improved power supply parts. I believe recent reports where hardware 2.2 where being received from Smarthome. I have seen some indications that 1.C had improvements but can't verify that.

The Sensor Input on a I/OLinc has about a 5 volt sensing voltage. That is pulled to ground with a dry closure type input. It is not designed to be driven by a external voltage AC or DC. When the doorbell is not sounding. It may actually load the Sensor Input low enough to turn it ON when not sounding. As the speaker probably has a fairly low resistance. In my tests anything lower than 800 Ohms was enough to trip the sensor On. Finding a different way to trigger the Sensor Input on an I/OLinc. Will be needed.

After unchecking DST did you click the Save Tab? If it changed back to DTS then I would also think it maybe a bug.

The iolinc requires a dry closure [no voltage when activated] to connect the Sensor Input to the Ground terminal. The photo sensor would need a dry closure to work or have a way to trigger a small relay to do the dry contact closure. Do you have a specific model in mind?

If you are replacing an ISY994i with a ISY994iPRO. The PRO should already be enabled as it was purchased with the PRO feature enabled from the factory.

I looked at the sales page. Four reviews. One gave it a one star rating for no ISY994i support on 01/08/2016. There was no comment back from management.

As a verified owner. I was thinking of putting a comment in a review about no ISY994i support. Due to lack of information from them. Though they would probably remove it anyway.

You may want to search one of the other Alert Module threads. Michel said they did not receive the API but where send some communications logs they maybe able to get information from. Hoping to eventually get support into one of the 5.xx firmware releases. I got two of Alert Modules in late December 2015 and I am still waiting for Smarthome to get the needed date to UDI. I place total blame of this no support on Smartlabs. As I know UDI is trying to get the API as soon as possible.

After seeing the foot dragging by Smarthome/Smartlabs on getting the data to UDI. I doubt I will be purchasing any new models until the UDI firmware will support it.

I/O Linc is a power line only module. So RF directly to it is not used. Possibly an RF issue to a Dual Band Module close to it that was passing the command to the I/O Linc. More likely you have spotty power line communications to the I/O Linc and the added commands when adding it have issues. On and Off are much simpler commands. I have seen other reports here. Where adding a module needed it close to the PLM but where fine after adding them in their normal location.

I hope they do send the API. In another thread. Michel indicated someone has sent him some communication dump files but not the API and hope to get it into a future 5.xx firmware.

Part of the confusion is in electronics the state with no magnet is called out and security setting when the magnet moved out of the position when the zone is satisfied.. So a normally closed sensor would be with no magnet. To an electronic technician. When the same exact sensor is called out in a security setting it is for a normally open system. As the violated zone is when the magnet is moved away from the sensor. Allowing it to close.

Your tests and description of what is happening. Sounds like it may have failed.

You may want to try a power cycle reset. Pull the Set Button out to open the built in Air Gap Switch. Wait thirty seconds. Push the Set button back into its normal position using care not to go all the way in and do a Factory Reset. You could also just turn the circuit breaker off for thirty seconds. The Power Cycle reset would restart the electronics on the change they got scrambled. Maybe by noise. You are not using the two wire 2474 Switchlinc are you?

If you try and do live readings. Use caution as the module has a power line derived power supply. I don't know about the micro modules. I do know the older things like the 2456S3 and 2456D. Both have the + Logic power connection directly on the Line Input. I looked at both the dimmer and relay style FCC Internal photos. Looks like each Sense Input wire connects to two surface mounted resistors in series. Marked 3303. The other end of the resistors looks like it has some diodes and resistors that connect to the 8 pin IC in the same location. Can't read the part number but it maybe an optoisolator to isolate the Sense Inputs from the unisolated AC floating around in the module. I think the Sense Inputs are a fairly high impedance and not a rugged as the 1000 volt rating for the AC surges. The newer model Insteon devices I have looked at. Use a 3.3 volt DC power so you may see what looks like a low logic supply voltage but it is most likely OK.

I doubt you will find schematics of the module. In the FCC Database there are all of the Dual Band devices. Including the Micro Modules https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm Smartlabs allowed the internal and external photos along with the test results to be public access but the schematics were kept confidential. You can take the FCC ID on the module and put the needed information into the web form. Then pick the details choice after the search. The public data is available for you to see or download. All the pages have the same name. So change it for your download. The Grantee Code is SBP for the Smartlabs devices. The Product Code is the rest of the FCC ID.

Thank you for the PLM information. My V2.1 has the same 9E Firmware in it. So yours may have different components in it.

If you run the Event Viewer in Level 3. What does it report when you try and add it? You can use the copy to clipboard function and then post it here. What firmware is in your ISY994i and does the UI version match the firmware version?