Brian H

If you run the Event Viewer in Level 3. What does it report when you try and add it? You can use the copy to clipboard function and then post it here. What firmware is in your ISY994i and does the UI version match the firmware version?

The original LightDims web page. Indicates around a 80% reduction in brightness. Depending on the LED's color and brightness. My Blue Power LED on my ISY994i is a nice brightness with one covering it. In my case the 100% blockage ones would be too much. http://www.lightdims.com/

Even if the power cycle. Fixes the no PLM found. It most likely will fail again in a short time period. If the PLM is not a recent one that just got locked up. When mine went bad. After a power cycle. It worked maybe twenty four hours before dying for good.

Yes the latest firmware should have some improvements in it and maybe correct flaws. Smarthome does not publicly post firmware change notices and I am not even sure if the Developers are getting the information. Now that the Developers Group was disbanded.

The new one will have the latest firmware in it.

Glad to read the rebuilt PLM is working now.

Smarthome is now showing them in stock. Amazon had some a day ago and expects more by 04/09/16. So hopefully your new one will arrive shortly.

Another thing to check on. Are there any new electronic devices in the home or an existing electronic device moved to a new location? Chargers for portable electronics can also be a problem sometimes. On the back of the 2413S PLM are some stickers. They will give a date code and hardware revision.

No schematics that I have seen so this is from what I see in the FCC Database internal photos. What looks like four triacs on the PCB/ Heat Sink. Photos not quite clear enough to read the part number. I would say one is for the light dimmer control and three for the fan motor speed. Also I see two large Mylar capacitors and I suspect they are switched into and out of the fan output. Depending on what speed is chosen. Could also be that High connects the line to the fan output and medium and low switch one of the capacitors into the fan motor output.

Was the fan set to its high speed setting for use with the Fanlinc? If it has electronic speed controls. Did you have to bypass it to use the Fanlinc?

NO you need a dry closure. No external voltage should be put on the Sensor Input. The I/O Linc has a 5 volt signal on its Sensor Input that you pull to the Ground terminal on it. A relay controlled by a 12 volt signal from the DSC controller would do the trick. If the DSC panel does not have any dry contact outputs. Both of the two relays below. Have a diode across the relay coil to protect the DSC panel 12 Volt DC output. When switched on and off from inductive voltages from the coil. This ELK Relay will do both 12 and 24 volts DC. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912b-relay-module-12-24-volt.html This one 12 volts DC only. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912-spdt-relay-board.html You would use the 12 volt DC output to control the relay. Then use the relay's Common connected to the I/O Linc ground terminal and the Normally Open to the I/O Linc Sensor Input. When the 12 volts DC pulls in the relay. It will turn the Sensor Input On.

Thank you for the very detailed instructions on creating custom KPL Buttons

I have also used the original LightDims that reduce the brightness about 70%. They work well.

I would depend on the the oven. The sensor would have to slip over one of the incoming power connections. Maybe where the line cord is internally connected to the oven. If it is a 220 volt model. One of the incoming lines. This guide was for a Dryer but should give you added information on how it can be done. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

If the sensors are just close enough to activate every time and there is any vibrations or slight movements they may false. You may want to see if you can find their gap specifications. They do make security sensors that are rated as Large Gap and have a much wider gap between the magnet and sensor where they work. .

You could use a MAMAC Systems CT800 {solid core} or CT805 {split core and can be snapped over a wire without disconnecting it} current sensor. To trigger an I/OLinc. If you have access to the oven's wiring. So you can slip the sensor over the one of the AC input wires to sense when it is On. The CT800 senses .5 Amp to 200 Amp currents and has a dry contact output. That can trigger the sensor input of the I/OLInc. If the oven has some electronic controls. You may have to pick the AC line not powering the controls as .5 amps to the controls may trigger it.

There is no capacitor in C32's position on my hardware 1.5 or my hardware 1.B. The gunk around the LED is normal for many Insteon products. Seems the assembler with the glue applicator used to hold the LED in place likes to over fill the space. The white residue near the daughter board connector. Is most likely poorly cleaned PCB after soldering. Has been seen in many different Insteon Modules. My C3, C11, C7, C13 and C8 didn't show any signs of failures in mine. Though a capacitance meter showed they where not in specification anymore. C7 and C13 in one of my Version 2 2443 Access Points that uses the same base board with no daughter board and a different firmware. Showed slightly bulge tops or swollen rubber seals on the bottom.

The only thing to watch with Amazon. Is if it is sold and shipped by Amazon or one of their Amazon Stores and fulfilled by Amazon. I am not sure if their Amazon Stores always have the latest versions.

Must be the 2413S serial version. As the signal cable between the PLM and the ISY994i is serial protocol. The 2413U is a USB type interface. My Hardware V1.5 Date Code 1122. Lasted about a day after letting it rest with no power. Dell is showing 3-5 day shipping normally for the 2413S. I suspect they have it shipped from Smarthome. I bought a 2413S from Amazon and it was the latest hardware. As they where waiting for more stock when I ordered it. Was $66.95 while Smarthome was $79.99 I rebuilt my 2413S V1.5 using the information in this thread. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

OLD PLM. Date Code:1051 week 51 of 2010. V1.4 is one of the ones with problem power supplies. Above V2.0 is supposed to have the improved power supply parts in it. The LED going out and the ISY994i going into safe mode. Is a common indication the power supply has failed. Since there is a Back Order for the 2413S PLM. It may take awhile to get a new one. Last time I looked Smarthome indicated 04/22/2016 is expected new stock date. Amazon dealers also have finally run out of them. Amazon expects 03/29/2016. So Smarthome may not have updated their site yet.

The 2413S has NO power on the serial port RJ45 connector. Only the older 2412S had unregulated 12 volts on the serial connector. When the 2413S power supply is going bad. One of the indications is a dim or Green Led out. Sometimes a power cycle of the PLM will give it enough to restart for a short time. Another indication is the Link Database is empty. The ISY controller checks for a PLM connected on a soft or power cycle reboot. Your PLM may have failed and found when you did the soft reboot.

You can use a Mamac CT-800 current sensor. Over one if the incoming AC Power Lines to sense when it is on or off. It has a dry contact relay in it and can trigger an I/OLinc Sensor Input. It can sense from .5 Amp to 200 Amp AC current. There is also a CT-805 that has a snap over wire feature so you don't have to disconnect any wiring. I picked up a CT-800 on Ebay for $12.50 with shipping. Tutorial from Cocoontech. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58 My old dryer has a three wire plug. Line-Line-Neutral. Motor is 120 volts and a separate Ground wire is on the frame to a cold water pipe.

I did a web search for 2842-292 As other have pointed out Retail Version. Amazon, Home Depot and many other carry the 2842-292 stock number.

The original garage door kit from Smarthome did have the NC/NO magnetic switch in it. That they later changed to a lower cost one. Here is what use to be in the kit. http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html As pointed out. Other vendors may also have such switches.

Thank you for the information I will have to add the fuses value a dn part number to my notes.