Brian H

That was probably me "BLH" responding to your Smarthome Forums message. Though Tom has also added a reply. 3.3.10 is the last official ISY99i firmware. All the later versions are too large to fit into a ISY99i and only are for the ISY994i series hardware. I would use 3.3.10 on an ISY99i. I put it on my ISY99i before retiring it when I got my ISY994i. I have Hardware 2.4 revision 2412S PLMs. There are two different Firmware versions in them. 52 or 61. So some hardware versions may have different firmware version in them. The firmware 61 2412S worked on my ISY99i and Docklight Scripting testing showed X10 could be received and sent.

So your "good" 2412S has the firmware in it that has issues with X10, that you need. The "bad" one that worked for two days. Now puts the ISY99i into the Safe Mode as it is not detected at boot up of the ISY99i. I will think on your findings and see if I can think of a way to further test the one acting bad at the present time. I still have a few of the 2412S with 417 link databases {not used for X10 so smaller size not important } and an ISY99i. Can try and see what we maybe able to do testing wise.

Sorry for the confusion. The BUG was firmware 2.4 not the hardware 2.4. The problem 2412S was hardware 1.9 with firmware 2.4. I have seen stickers over stickers. Right from Smarthome and also seen Date Code Formats change on the labels. Depending on what year it was manufactured. Your hardware 2.4 does not respond to the ISY99i and will not communicate at all?

I didn't see any notes from end users in the database I linked to for the hardware 2.4. Probably has v.52 firmware in it.

If it worked with the 4A firmware 2412S. The ISY99i is probably OK. With a 2412S that also powers up the ISY99i. You don't have to power the 2412S up first and then connect the ISY99i. I understand at start up the ISY99i tries a few times for a reply from the 2412S before triggering a no PLM safe mode condition. I can't find a hardware 1.75 2412S in the end users database provided by users. Hardware 1.9 was the first 2412S released and it was with the Simplehomenet {Smartenit} EZIO8SA. It also had a severe BUG in the 2.4 firmware. About 50% of the time a Factory Reset made it smoke and fail. Seems the small Charge Pump 30 volt power supply for the power line transmitter would get turned on at 100% and burned out. http://www.madreporite.com/insteon/Insteon_device_list.htm

2412S Quick users Guide. There is no full users manual. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2412sqs.pdf The capacitor fix for the 2413S does not apply to the 2412S. Completely different circuitry. Including a linear power transformer type power supply and not the switching type in a 2413S. 2412S Insteon Modem Developers Guide. Has schematics and parts list in it. The capacitors should be on the parts list. I have never tried changing them so I don't know how difficult it is to change them. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf Since there is unregulated 12 volts {around 18.5 volts DC} on the 2412S RJ45 serial port. Though I don't believe pin #2 and #7 are on the same cable pair. In a network jack. You may want to look at both the RJ45 jack on the PLM and ISY99i Port A. To verify one of the pins maybe out of place. Also if not tried yet. A different cable between the PLM and ISY99i. Do you have the hardware version on the PLM's label? Some also had the firmware label.

Low ESR would be recommended. I believe it has the switching power supply IC {could not read the part number from the FCC Database Photos} on the solder side of the PCB that Smartlabs liked to use. That could also be why the glue holding the crystal is discolored. Power supply components on the other side of the PCB.

The original ones with the silicon like glue. Bake them at about 200 Degrees F for maybe 30 minutes. Grab with thick gloves. Top should pop off. If memory serves me some of my latest ones had a different glue and didn't budge after the baking. There is a thread on the Candlepower Forums on the Cree 100 Watt ones failing. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?411223-Cree-100w-daylight-bulbs-keep-dying-Anyone-else-have-that-problem&s=2434390dcdd8f3e25e14db866b40f1c9

I would have hoped the shell falling off issue would have been addressed by now. My early ones the shells got loose and could be popped off. The flickering and pulsing could be the contact springs they used between the driver PCB and the LED PCB. I have a few where I could gently, with a plastic soldering tool, press on the contacts and they would work again. Also saw small burn marks on the contacts where the spring clips where arcing. I don't recommend folks poke around in them. The LED's are in a series setup and the voltage on the contacts is about 218 volts DC and if the LED's are not making contact. Driver runs around 285 volts DC and holds a charge with no load on it.

The ISY99i and ISY994i need a serial PLM. So if you don't have one yet. You will have to add it to your list of needed parts. If by chance the ISY99i has a old PLM with it. The older 2412S units have a 417 Link Database. The later 2412S had a larger Link Database. The 2413S is Dual Band. If you have a 2412S it will power the ISY interface through the serial connection. The 2413S does not power it. So you may also need a wall wart power supply. 5 Volt 1 Amp was in my ISY994i kit.

The flickering LED bulbs. Are they all on Insteon Modules or some on mechanical switches also flicker? Your power company didn't install a new Smart Meter on your home recently? I only have A19 or A21 LED bulbs in use. No MR16 ones.

It could be possible the LED bulbs electronics can start to deteriorate over time. Depending on its design. Heat is the enemy of electronics. If you don't get the heat out and the electronics get hot. Their life is reduced. Electrolytic capacitors are the most likely to go. The 25 years is based on a 3 hour a day On time. Some LED bulbs to keep their internal electronic noise from getting to the power lines. Put a simple AC rated capacitor across the AC input. Cheap fix for the noise but also sucks up power line signals like Insteon and X10. If they are off. They should not cause any issues. I have some of the Phillips Slim Line LED bulbs I don't remember any issues. In my evaluation tests but will revisit them. I actually have some Lighting Science Group LED bulbs that I can't imagine pass the FCC emissions tests. Turn them On and they can knock out every FM radio in the house receiving anything. List of working LED bulbs maybe a good ides. Just make sure if possible. The exact part number is listed. I have some of the old style Phillips EnduraLED bulbs. 12E26A60 and 12E26A60-1. Both called the same thing but act differently when used with a dimmer.

The 2876SB may not have the Air Gap Switch. To do a factory reset or power cycle reset. With it Off and the Status LED On. If you pull the Set Button out and the LED does not go Off. You have an earlier one with no Air Gap Switch. You may want to try turning Off the breaker to the 2876SB and then wait maybe ten seconds and then turn the breaker back On. For a power cycle reset. For a Factory Reset. Try holding the top paddle for 10 seconds. The Status LED should start blinking. Then release. Tap the set button all the way in then release it. Then hold the set button all the way in for 10 seconds then release.

Washer probably has electronic controls. To keep its internal electronic noise from getting onto the power lines. Most likely they put a simple AC rated capacitor across the AC Power. That will kill the internal noise but also absorb Insteon and X10 power line signals. I have seen similar electronic washer, dryer and even refrigerators found as trouble makers reported on the X10 Forums.

Only X10 Repeater/ Phase Coupler that I know of that respects Insteon. Is the JV Digital Engineering XTB-IIR. XPCR may work but it may still false trigger on the end of Insteon Messages. Thinking they where an X10 message.

Link count=0, PLM Info/Status in diagnostics shows in safe mode or both. The PLM is failing. See if Larry's procedure changes anything temporarily. Until a new PLM is purchased.

All the battery operated Insteon Modules. Go into a power saving mode and have to be woke up by the set button. So if you have any other models. Like a leak sensor or open/closed module. They also need to be woken up with their set button first. You also need to have Jumper #5 On. As it enables Remote Software Management. If you have the ISY994i Pro Version. Making sure Automatic Writes to battery devices is enabled. Makes it easier. I had mine off and doing manual writes after changes was not as easy.

Thanks for the photos. May help others who have not seen the internal photos in the FCC Database. In the stripped 2457D2 chassis. Used for the Alarm Module. They left the larger sounders leads much longer and loosely coiled inside the front case. The stripped 2457D2 chassis. Used in the Range Extender also has the short leaded small sounder.

Your first Thumbnail shows the Motion Sensors firmware as v.00 and automatic writes to battery devices disabled. The v.00 maybe part of the issue. As its features may not be known. I don't have any Motion Sensors in use right now. I did add one as a test and a firmware revision was shown. I have the Pro version and had the automatic writes to battery devices turned off. Even though I had the motion sensor awake. The options changes did not work until I enabled automatic writes to battery devices. If your motion sensor has the two adjustment pots. Verify that Jumper #5 is On its pins. It enables remote options changes. My old ones ignored Jumper #5 as they where too old to have the adjustment pots.

I doubt more Dual Band modules close to them would make things worse. You can do a rough test by just turning off their power or unplugging them.

The CM15A also has a higher output power line signal. Over a PLM. So some areas of you home may have been OK and now can't be reached. Do you have an X10 phase coupler between the two incoming power lines into the home? If the PLM is on the same power circuit as you computer equipment. You may want to try the extension cord power to the PLM to see if things change. As that type of equipment. Frequently can absorb some of the power line signals. Insteon messages are passed from module to module. X10 is not and has to go from the sender all the way to the receiver. Insteon modules have a power line transmitter in them. That will absorb power line signals over what a receiver only type absorbs. Here are some X10 troubleshooting tutorials that are a good source of information. http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

Sloop and I go way back to the early days on Insteon. He is not a troll. To when instead of admitting there where Insteon issues. Smartlabs Engineers tried to say we didn't know what we where talking about. To shift their hardware failures blame on to the end users.

If the washers and dryers have fancy electronic controls. It is possible they are signal suckers or noise makers. More likely signal suckers. As manufacturers try to stop their electronic noise from getting onto the power lines with a simple capacitor across the incoming power. Works great for their noise but also sucks up Insteon and X10 signals also.

What is sending the C1 on command to be received by the program? Sending an X10 C1 Status ON will not turn the modules On. Are your WS467's new enough to have Soft Start? Where they ramp On and Off?

Might be interesting if you could find the ToggleLinc's Part Number. Maybe on a sticker on the front of the module. Not sure with out looking. If any had the BoosterLinc feature that was known to cause Insteon Issues. I found some old manuals. The 23890 ToggleLinc Dimmer and 23893 ToggleLinc On/Off modules have BoosterLinc technology. Manuals indicate BoosterLinc Technology can be turned On and Off. Quick test. Turn it off. By removing its power and see if anything changes. If you gently pull the set button on it out until it clicks. That is the Air Gap Power Switch and it disconnects the power. Only caution is after the test. Do NOT push the Set Button past its normal place and all the way in. That would do a factory reset and you would have to reprogram it again.