Brian H
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Everything posted by Brian H
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Did you follow the proper procedure when replacing a PLM? Power down the ISY994i and old 2413S PLM. Connect the serial cable from the ISY994i to the new PLM. Power up the PLM and allow it to fully boot up. Power up the ISY994i and allow it to fully boot up. Use the Restore PLM choice it the File Menu so the new PLM ID is written into the Insteon modules in your system.
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3 AM is also the normal time [unless you changed it or disabled it] a System wide module query is done. Some have seen the hard to pin down All Module ON occurrence. With the 3 AM Query.
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The short availability 2454D SocketLinc Dimmer. Acted the same. Power fail and restore. Always was On at 100% even if it was Off at the time.
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You will find many LED bulbs do not smoothly transition on dimmers. Some worse than others.
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It is normally hard wired into the four position terminal block inside the 2441ZT Wireless Thermostat. There is a small photo on the probes sales page. Showing where it is normally wired to. Note unless you wire it into the sensor inside the module connection on the circuit board and not the terminal block. The external temperature only shows on its local LCD screen and not sent back for use. You would also have to know its characteristics of the probe. So the one you want to substitute will read correct temperatures.
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This is the one they sell for the 2441ZTH wireless model. Not very sure you can integrate it in to whet you want. http://www.smarthome.com/waterproof-temperature-sensor-for-insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html
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It may no longer be available. AT one time First Alert had a dry contact accessory. That would give you a dry closure output from the Trigger Signal. It could be connected to things like an Insteon I/OLinc module or X10 Powerflash module.
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No only on the 2441ZTH display. There is a thread here where the external one was connected to where the main sensor is. Then it was what was reported not the internal one. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/?hl=2441zth
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Not 100% sure if the 2477D has the blink on traffic feature or on power line noise also. If it does the 2672-222 maybe sending noise back on the power lines and the 2477D is blinking its LEDs from the noise or bogus Insteon messages. Is the 2672-222 always in a live socket and you turn it On; Off and Brightness level with Insteon Commands? So that if is going bad. It has power all the time. Flashing at 60 or 120 cycles could be the power supply in the 2672-222 is starting to fail.
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Not sure if you would get anything additional from the FCC Internal Photos of the Fanlinc. They are on the FCC Database. Grantee Code: SBP Product Code: 2475F In the detail choice. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm Yes you can find most of the Insteon Dual Band modules in the Database. All have the same Grantee Code and different Product Codes.
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Most seasoned Insteon users. Do a Factory Reset on all new modules. As Stu mentioned. We have seen both Insteon and X10 test addresses in them. When the factory didn't clear it out before shipping.
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You can always restore individual modules if they have issues and not the whole setup. In the Tools Tab, Show Device Link Tables and then use the Compare choice after the devices Link Table was read. Remember. Battery operated Insteon modules have to be woken up from power saving mode before accessing them.
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Do you have a recent backup, that was done before the original PLM was changed?
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The number starting with BTA is the manufacturers part number for a commonly sold TRIAC. Many electronic parts vendors like Mouser or DigiKey should have them. A web search will also find the manufacturers web site datasheets and vendors stocking them. Was this module ever connected to anything or maybe was a Certified Refurbished from Smarthome? The only thing I can think of at the moment. Is the Red or Blue wire was shorted to Neutral, the load was grossly overloaded or a very high noise pulse blew it out. If it was a Refurbished module. The first owner may have blown it out and returned it. IMHO Smarthome does NOT 100% test returns resold as refurbished. I got an On Off Module with the whole internal PCB just floating loose in the case. No spacers or mounting screws in it to hold the PCB. Another one only the Red LED would work. The Green section was dead.
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Must have been a misprint or they changed the price. When I looked at the link earlier it was $49.99. Smarthome sales page is $79.99. Q9 in the FCC photos is probably a Triac used to control AC power. Could be the one that controls the High Speed AC or one of the others used to switch different capacitors in to the fan circuit. To select a speed setting.
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As pointed out. The schematic is incorrect. Your photo shows it is also a AC power line derived supply and is not safe to use external wiring. The 5 volts to ground is also indicating a power supply referenced back to the Line or Neutral. Depending on the exact circuit.
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I can see why you are confused. It looks like the 2N2222 is not wired the way I expected. Maybe because the original modification is for a security alarm zone. The external output should not be using the Base of the transistor. May have to look this over and see what may work. In case you missed it in my earlier post. Measure with your meter from each speaker lead to a good safety ground for any AC or DC voltages. If the receiver does not have a polarized AC input plug and can be plugged in either direction. Reverse it in the outlet and measure it again.
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I suspect the large inrush starting current may have damaged the relays used to control the outlets. Especially if the compressor got short cycled. I will see if I can read the relay model number and its markings in the FCC Database.
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The 2N2222 may work. Make sure the Collector is the one on the Sensor Input and the Emitter on the Ground. If your receiver is AC powered and you find AC back to safety ground. Maybe we can find you a optocoupler that may work. Smarthome use to make a low voltage probe for the older X10 version of a I/O Linc but it had to be slightly modified to work on the Insteon version. As the nice 1/8" stereo type connector on the end was wired incorrectly for the Insteon I/O Linc.
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I believe the Gene brand is similar to the one I tested. I bought a Chamberlan 903LM 3-Door Multi-Function Control Panel. To dissect and see how it works. The each button has a LED and resistor in them from the Red + to White - terminal. So they glowed in dark places. The Door Switches short the Red to White connections. The Light Switch connects a 1uf/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The Lock Switch connects a 22uF/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The control board must be able to determine what you want to do. By what is connected between the Red and White wires. Since the LED's and Capacitors have polarity. The Red has to be + and the White -
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Before connecting any external wiring to the speaker wires. You should do a safety check to test for a possible shock hazard. Using your meter. Check each speaker wire in the doorbell receiver to a good safety ground. For AC or DC voltages between the speaker wires and safety ground. If the Doorbell receiver has unpolarized AC input prongs. Reverse the doorbell receiver in the wall outlet and check the speaker wires again to safety ground. There is a chance the doorbell receiver may use a power line derived power supply and its internal power supply may be referenced to the AC power line input.
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Any 2413S with a hardware higher than 2.0 should have the improved power supply parts. I believe recent reports where hardware 2.2 where being received from Smarthome. I have seen some indications that 1.C had improvements but can't verify that.