Brian H

In the Tools Tab, Diagnostics. What does the Show PLM Info/Status show? Connected or safe mode? Is the PLM a 2413S and how old is it? They have a known issue with their power supply failing after two years. When you cycled the power. Make sure the PLM is powered up first and has initialized. Then power up the ISY-99i.

You can try a power tap so you can plug both the LED lights and a plug with the resistor in it. On the output of the module. As pointed out other loads like an old phone charger or a 4 watt incandescent night light bulb also works. If the LED lights have a plug with a outlet on the back. So another LED string could be added. The plug with the resistor could be used there. As long as it is not exposed to the elements.

Smarthome sells a eight button face plate and button set. For the conversion. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401wh8-8-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-white.html

At one time they had a three way kit. One of the two had no load output and they where linked at the factory. Biggest downside was the kit was only a few bucks less than two full featured ones. If memory serves me.

X10 also had a Companion Switch. That controlled the main switch with the load control. When they started Insteon. The companion-slave method was discontinued. Now you cross link the two switches and one probably has its load wire capped off.

Sorry that model and any of the other V1 models are strictly X10. The Insteon models used the SAME basic model names. So in the beginning when both where being sold. V1 was the X10 only. V2 was the Insteon version that could could do both Insteon and X10. Example a 2001SHL was an AppliancLinc V1 and a 2456S3 is an ApplianceLinc V2. After years of no longer selling the older X10 ones. The V2 at the end of the model name was removed. The switch in the photo is just a slave switch. To control a V1 Togglelinc. That has the dimmer circuitry in it. When used in a three way switch setup. 2389_web.pdf

I have seen a Cree phone number mentioned on a lighting related forum. Though I don't have it at the moment. I have had Cree bulbs go bad. Three of of six of my 60 watt, A Shell, high CRI ones have died. All the same way. Started to occasionally pulse off and now dead. Though I can see arcing inside them. I have some older 60 watt ones where the shells fell off and started also acting like the ones above. I found the spring contacts they used to couple the LED array to the driver was arcing. Push on it with an insulated plastic tool and it went back On. Side note. The LEDs are in series and the normally running voltage on the array is 220VDC. 280VDC open

Some of my 2476S SwitchLincs and 2876S Icons had the intermittent Tact Switch issues. Push the local paddle. Hear the tact switch click. No action on the load. Smarthome said we didn't know how to use them correctly or wired them incorrectly. Finally gave us a seven year warranty on the known hardware versions with the problem. Mine are also old enough [Hardware 2.1 firmware v.28] to not have an Air Gap Switch. Pull the set button out and it breaks off. There is a completely different Factory Reset Sequence. Mine do remember their state of On or Off at power loss. I have an original 2456D LampLinc from a early developers group kit. Firmware .20. It does not respond to an All On or All Off command. Yes the same feature they are again removing. The 2456S3 ApplainceLinc and 2856S Icon On/Off had the remember feature. Then two firmware version always Off. Then again remember state. I have found the list helpful but also have not seen much added information lately.

Glad the resistor helped.

If you are still with in the two year warranty. They should replace it. The latest hardware is supposed to have the updated power supply parts. There is a thread here on rebuilding them. If you are handy.

The relay can be set to follow the sensor input. Have you tried a Factory Reset? Will not correct the LED not lighting as it is on the Sensor terminal with a current limiting resistor but the the input to the controller chip may still work. Though the controllers pins have an internal set of diodes to protect the input. If one of those got shorted. The input will not work. You can still use the relays NC and NO functions.

All the original Insteon Devices remembered their state at power loss. So if it is On it would go back On. If it was Off it stayed Off. Well except the SocketLinc Dimmer that always powered up at 100%. Even if it was Off. Some of the 2456S3 and 2856S models. Do always stay Off even if On at power loss. Earlier and later revisions still remember their state at power loss.

This is the first report I have seen on the Sensor not working. Since you have a multimeter. There should be +5 volts on the Sensor S terminal to the GND terminal. The voltage is through the LED and some pull up resistors. The Sensor Input is designed for a dry contact to pull it down to GND. It is possible a voltage higher than 5 volts was put into it and damaged the circuitry. I believe it can tolerate an external voltage of 5 volts or less on the Sensor Input to GND.

Good to know. Thank you for the information.

If the Dual band On Off module still has local control sensing or an RC snubber across the relay contacts. They may glow. I should find out next Wednesday when my Dual Band On Off modules arrive. All of my 2456S3 ApplianceLincs will cause low wattage LEDs to glow. The hardware 4.? ones also have a RC snubber across the relays contacts. That put a small current on the output when off.

I had a chance to do a few tests. 35 LED String. 2456S3 Hardware 4.1 and 1.3 Both a 56K and 33K worked. 2856D2B Hardware 4.3 Both a 56K and 33K worked. 2457D2R Hardware R3.4 Both a 56K and 33k worked. So the choice of resistor is not overly critical.

Small incandescent light bulb will also work. 33000 {33K} resistor should be fine. The wattage at the 120 volts when On is .43 watts. So a .5 Watt would work. I prefer a safety margin and say a 1 watt is best. Though I know many users with the .5 watt one and no issues. On the X10 forums. We frequently use 33K to 47K values. I tried a single 35 LED light string, Hardware 4.1 2456S3 ApplianceLinc and a 56K resistor. It kept the LEDs Off.

Well I got an email this morning. Shipped yesterday. Now that I think of it. Maybe the use of PayPal to pay for the order. Added processing time.

Ad-Aware has been reported as a problem. Along with a few other antivirus programs. I have to add the IP address of my ISY994i to the trusted list in Zone Alarm. You may find some added information in this section of the forums. http://forum.universal-devices.com/forum/4-router-firewall-and-anti-virus-issues/

No the ISY26 will not control later Insteon modules. Not sure if the I2 ones are supported. I2CS no. The Newer ISY99i can control more but it also can't do the latest. So the iSY994i is needed for the latest Insteon Modules.

Two phase couplers in the same breaker panel or two different ones? It is possible the passive phase coupler is now passing noise on one line back into the other line. With all those Access Points. Have you done some communications tests with them, using the four tap method? If any of the 2443 Access Points are hardware 2.0 and above. Try disconnecting one at a time and see if things get better. The 2.0 and above use the same base circuit board as in the 2413S with the power supply issues. If the LED on the side is dim or out, communications tests act real strange that is another clue on a failing power supply. If power cycling an Access Point also improves communications. The supply is flaky or the module was locked up. Two of my Access Points made communications worse because it had a failing power supply. Same PLM fix works for a hardware 2.0 and above Access Points.

The 2413S PLM was on the excluded from the sale list. Not sure if they had a great sale volume or didn't have enough seasonal staff. My first thought is. Lack of seasonal staff. Why cut into the profit margins. My order from last Sunday was still listed as "Processing" this morning. On items the sales page said In Stock will ship today. Though who knows if they did have any of the refurbished On-Off modules they said they have.

Sudden changes as pointed out. Can be something deteriorating, new device or even a device moved to a new location. Like moved a cell phone charger to a more convenient location.

Wired in or plug in? Plug in could be a Smarthome FilterLinc if the load is ten or less amps. It also has a pass through outlet on the front. I have my UPS using one. The PLM is in the unfiltered front outlet and the UPS in the bottom filtered one. The ACT AF120 is a fifteen amp one. The X10Pro XPF is a large 20 amp wired in one. All three I mentioned do X10 or Insteon noise. As both are close in power line signal frequency.

One common place to look is the PLM connected to the same circuit with computing equipment or an UPS. Both can absorb Insteon power line signals or put noise on the power lines.