Brian H

A phototransistor. That may work much better. I will have to see if I have any to play with in my components boxes.

The Micro Module maybe a better way to go. From what I can see in your photos. The indicator light looks like a Neon Indicator assembly. They don't put out a great amount of light.

You can't find a resister value that allows the Sensor Voltage to go low enough to trigger it on. While allowing it to go high enough when the light is off to trigger back off.

I missed that point. Does look like a parallel resistor is not going to cut it.

Its more complicated. There is a pull up resistor from five volts to the Sensor Input connector. Also the Sensor LED with its own current limiting resistor is also from five volts to the Sensor Input. That is why the Sensor LED can glow from a resistance not low enough to trigger the Sensor On.

My tests on early I/OLincs showed a one volt sensor to ground was just where it started to trigger On even though the Green LED will glow if the sensor voltage is being pulled down to a higher level than the trigger point. Around 800 Ohms pulled it down to where it just started to trigger On. 2.25 volts is not low enough. Would be hard to pick a resistor in parallel. Maybe a good point to start would be 10K or 4.7K.

I too have seen and tested the 2440 RemoteLincs. They don't work correctly close to the latest 2413S PLMs. Not sure if it is a hardware component change or maybe the RF Firmware for the RF section was tweaked.

Stu; I was referring to the 6 watt one you linked to in an earlier post.

That bulb may not draw enough current to trigger the ELK930. The specification is .9 amps or higher. About 21 watts with 24 volts.

Other signs of the PLM going bad. LED on the side is very dim or out. Disconnecting from the AC outlet. To let it cool down and functioning for a brief time. Link Database empty or a low link count.

Did you use the Delete Modem (PLM) choice at one point in time? That would leave only a few links to be written back to the modules.

Across the The Sensor input and Ground is around 5 volts from an internal circuit and where you would connect the photocell and resistor combination. No external voltage should be needed. My tests on early I/OLinc's showed they would detect an On at lower than about 1 volt and a resistance to pull it that low was around 800 Ohms. The resistor in parallel may make the Sensor LED glow as it is part of the internal circuit directly on the Sensor Terminal. Just try and verify the dark voltage is as high above 1 volt as possible and well below 1 volt with it being illuminated.

If you played with the values of the resistor shown in this article. You maybe able to use the I/OLinc sensor voltage to trigger when the alarm light goes on the photocell taped to it. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-a-device-using-its-status-light-r37

You maybe able to use the CT800 current sensor mentioned in this article. To trigger a I/OLinc. If the 120 volt sounder draws through current to trigger is dry contact output. The sensitivity can be lowered to .25 amps if you loop the load wire through the sensor two times. According to the users sheets. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/11423-how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-washerdryerfurnace/ http://www.mamacsys.com/ct_800_805_810_815_features.html

Error and Memory LEDs flashing. Unable to get on to the network. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Help#Front_Panel_LEDs.2FLights Is there any other problems with your network?

Not all of its features work with older firmware Insteon Devices. The newer (After March 2012) I2CS devices are needed for some of the tests. I don't have one but understand it only can do one module linked to it at a time. The users manual has some features and limitations in it. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2993-222.pdf

The new PLMs ID is shown in the PLM Info/Status test in the Tools Diagnostics Tab? You never used the Delete Modem (PLM) function?

What firmware version shows in the ISY module information?

I can't say anything about the present units being sold. The Synchrolinc use to start a Auto Calibrate when first power On. For users with out the aid of a controller and where doing manual links.

I have seen later firmware changes in many module that act differently than the manual. This only a educated guess. From what I have seen in some later module. It may not do anything. When you are holding the set button and connecting it. Does it start beeping? If it does. Keep holding the set button until the beeping stops.

If you used Delete Modem (PLM) you better have a good backup. Because all references to the modules in your programs and scenes will all be gone.. As it removes the PLMs ID in the modules and in the ISY Scenes and Programs.

V2.1 Date Code 1505 is the same as mine. It should be the latest. As pointed out. Delete Modem (PLM) would remove the PLM address from every Insteon Device in the system.

Here is the procedure to correctly replace the PLM. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Replace_Modem_.28PLM.29 If you can read the hardware revision and date code. Found on the white sticker on the back of the new PLM. and the Firmware revision reported in the PLM Info/Status found in the Tools Menu It would give us information on what the latest hardware and firmware now shipping.

Every LED manufacture uses their own designed driver circuits. It would be impossible for every dimmer to work with every brand and model LED bulb. That is why many dimmer manufacturers have a list of known to work with LED bulbs. I have not seen one lately from Smarthome/Smartlabs. Also LED bulb manufacturers have lists of known dimmer models that work with their bulbs.

The full users manual should have factory resetting instructions in it. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2458a1-en.pdf If you have the newer model. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2862-222-en.pdf