TJF1960

Yeah, I am sure you could use a cap. I remember seeing those sold on eBay. I used the x10 pro coupler http://www.ebay.com/itm/X10-PRO-Signal-Bridge-Passive-Phase-Coupler-XPCP-/380345447874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588e5af5c2, I had a couple from back when you could get them for 5 or 10 bucks a piece on eBay. I just mounted it in a single gang box. Cut a couple of extension cord plugs off and wired the plugs to the coupler. It worked sweet for a long time. Then cai came along and didn't need it or the SL on the ups any more.

I did run a couple of SL relays (non dual band) on a ups with a passive coupler coupling the battery back up side of the ups and the wall outlet where the ups was plugged in for about a year with no comm. failures. I don't remember trying the plm on the ups however. Tim

Hello remedy1234, The easiest way, and cheapest is as andyf0 suggested. Create a program such as: Reboot Email: If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set Program 'Reboot Email' To Run At Startup Wait 1 minute Send Notification to 'remedy1234' Run Program 'Reboot Email' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Manually run this program once, it will automatically set itself to run each time at startup. This program will not alert you when the power fails but it will email you when power is restored and the ISY reboots. In order for the ISY to alert you to a power failure it needs some extra support equipment. Getting an alert when power fails is a bit more tricky, and expensive but sure it can be done. I am using CAI's WebControl board (http://www.cainetworks.com/products/webcontrol/webcontrol-faq.html) and io_guy's WCLink program (http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=6612) and a wall-wart to monitor the line voltage. I get an email if the voltage is too high or too low. In my case I use the too high (over 130 volts) and too low (which is less than 100 volts) as trip points to alert me as well has shut off voltage sensitive equipment. You could have it just email when the voltage was 0 if you wanted. In order for this to work the ISY, network router, internet modem and the WebControl board need to be on a power backup supply (UPS). It could also be accomplished probably a dozen other ways too. One idea would be using an I/O Linc (http://www.smarthome.com/2450/IOLinc-INSTEON-Low-Voltage-Contact-Closure-Interface-1-In-1-Out-/p.aspx) and 120v relay and a passive coupler (http://www.smarthome.com/4815X/X10-XPCP-X10-Passive-Signal-Coupler/p.aspx) and also a UPS. The ISY and I/O Linc and one side of the passive coupler would be on the UPS. The relay coil and the other side of the passive coupler would be wired to another (non UPS) 120v tap. One set of the relay contacts would wire to the I/O Linc. I would think, next to the reboot email program route that this might be the next simplest but probably not the cheapest route. Tim

Todd, Ah yes, the more you explain the more it jars my memories of a couple of years ago going thru similar issues with the motion sensors. I tried similar avenues, variables weren’t available back then, with some success, but spotty. I unfortunately don’t have any answers for you. Hopefully UDI can help you out. Sorry I couldn’t. Tim

Lee, good point. I had forgotten that when the motion sent the Off it would turn the lights back off...but in my situation I wanted that anyway. But I thought the OP stated the motions send only ON commands so his timer programs will turn off the responders anyway.

Hi Todd, Thanks for clarifying. I had wanted the same thing at one point but it is not possible currently to. Michel I am sure could explain the reasons why. You are probably aware but just in case, you can use the Adjust Scene in a program to set the responders to 0 Level so that when the motion trips the lights do not turn on. That is what I did/still do with some devices. At dusk the lights will turn on to 60% with motion, at dawn they turn on to 0% with motion Tim

Hmm, I have numerous Network Resources and am able to both export them as well as do do ISY backup. I am also on 3.1.16 Did you have just one resource or a number of them? Also, your gui is 3.1.16? tim

Hello Todd, Sorry, I followed your post pretty well but am a bit confused. Is your MS linked to the responders and you are using the "Adjust Scene" action in your time based programs as well as using programs to turn the lights on to preset levels? Or are you just using programs triggered by your MS to trigger your lights to preset levels and the MS is not linked to anything but the ISY? Thanks, Tim

OmegaQuest, What ISY version?

Is Bath Master part of the sf Bath Master scene? If so then the If is re-evaluating when the scene is turned on. Any change to Bath Master (since you are using the Status of that device) will cause the program to re-evaluate during the wait and run the program False.

I am having an intermittent network problem. I relocated the ISY and plm to the garage. Ran new cat5e. No troubles for a couple of hours then the ISY would report -100 loss of network. According to the error log it would loose network then reconnect sometimes rapidly. I thought maybe I had a bad port on the switch. Changed ports a couple of times, no help. Then I plugged the ISY directly into the router, no help. I ran another cat5, no help. I noticed that when the red light does flash on the ISY the 2 green lights on the rear for the network cable are still lit and the one is flashing occasionally while the red light flashes. I bought a network cable tester and both new cables tested good. It also seems that way more errors are produced when it is cold. I brought the unit back into the house and ran it for over an hour with no errors. Put it back in the garage and it ran for 30 minutes then produced the network error.The ISY has lived in the house for the last couple of years and that room stays between 75 and 80 degrees year round. At this point I don't know if it is the length of the cat5 (<80ft) or what. I was carefull not to route the cable near any power wires. I am normally a very good troubleshooter but I am stumped at this point. I am looking for suggestions. Thanks, Tim

What ISY version are you on and what version is the KPL? Does the ISY control the LED brightness of any other of your devices? Tim

Others have also used an old discarded wall-wart as a load to drain down the trickle voltage. Tim

Hello neupane00, If you have 99i Pro you can turn off the RF devices update button at the top of the console. You can drop the RL button into the scene with the other devices, after they all are linked then put the RL in linking mode and press the RF button again to write the links to the RL. If you do not have the pro version you can add all of the devices to the scene, once they are all written to, put the RL into linking mode then add the RL to the scene. You could add the RL at the same time with all the other devices into the scene without putting the RL into link mode but the ISY will attempt to link to the RL which will then make the process longer and in the end the RL button will have the green flag next to it. At that time you could put the RL into linking mode then right click on the node and select "write updates." Tim

Hello GreyFox, What rev. of the ISY are you running? Tim

Hi Wayne, Are you on 3.1.16? There was some sort of work done on both state and integer variables in this new beta release. There was also some work done regarding ACK's in less than ideal comm. situations. Also, just a question. Why is the first program looking for the status of Off for the humidifier-Relay but in the second program it is looking for the variable value of the humidifier? Was this changed in an attempt to get to the root of the problem? I was just curious. Thanks, Tim

Brian H, I wonder if it may depend on screen size. Mine show the same thing but if you widen the column PM appears. It may have something to do with letter spacing. In other words all of the PM next scheduled runtimes for me occur on this evening Thu.... where as the AM next scheduled are for Fri.... The F is closer to the left column line than the T is. garybixler, Have you tried re-downloading the update from UDI site?

Ditto. Thanks UDI, Tim

Hello gtrotter4, I am sure there are a number of different ways to accomplish what you want. I have one example as an alternative to having the cabinet lights turning on or off when switching the coffee on and off. One issue with it might be that turning the coffee on or off is no longer defined by Fast On turns the coffee on and Fast Off turns the coffee off. You will see what I mean: Coffee On: If ( Control 'Kitchen / Under Cabinets' is switched Fast On Or Control 'Kitchen / Under Cabinets' is switched Fast Off ) And Status 'Kitchen / Coffee' is Off Then Set 'Kitchen / Coffee' On Set 'Kitchen / Coffee' (Beep Duration) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') In this case if the cabinet light is On for instance and the coffee is off, press cabinet switch Fast On. If the cabinet light is off and the coffee is off then press the cabinet switch Fast Off. I added a single beep to the coffee device to confirm the coffee was turned on but the beep could be added to the cabinet switch instead. Note: The parens. is an “And†and the first “Control ‘Kitchen/Under…..†is an “Or†To turn the coffee off a similar program is used: Coffee Off: If ( Control 'Kitchen / Under Cabinets' is switched Fast On Or Control 'Kitchen / Under Cabinets' is switched Fast Off ) And Status 'Kitchen / Coffee' is On Then Set 'Kitchen / Coffee' Off Set 'Kitchen / Coffee' (Beep Duration) Set 'Kitchen / Coffee' (Beep Duration) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') If the coffee is on and the cabinet lights are on then Fast On will turn the coffee off. Otherwise if the lights are off then a Fast Off will turn the coffee Off, followed by 2 beeps for confirmation. Also note that if, say, the lights are on and the coffee is on and you want to turn both off then you could press Fast Off which will turn both off. Likewise if the lights are off and coffee is off and you wanted to turn both on then a Fast On would turn both On. The only problem I can foresee would be if your comm. is not good, there is a possibility of the programs malfunctioning due to using the status of the device we are switching. I tested these two programs out for a couple of minutes and they worked fine for me. Tim

Humm. Thats odd. I know that when a variable is created it will not show up in a programs drop down box until the new variable is saved, but did you rename it or make any changes to the variable without saving it? Tim

When you close the front door the program turns false and cancels the wait. Break the program in two and have this program Run the second program which contains the wait and the variable. Tim

Hi Michel, By chance, any updates from SmartLabs on this 2413s issue... Thanks, Tim

A search of "Kaspersky" turned these links up: http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2049&hilit=Kaspersky http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=1162 Hopefully one of these links will help with a solution.

I remember reading a post, that I have not been able to find, where the OP was going to set up the motion sensor in occupancy mode and create a program to increment a variable by +1 every time the motion detected motion within a given amount of time. Once the variable reached a certain level another program would turn the light on. If that level was not reached in a given amount of time the variable would reset. Sounds good in theory, don’t know if they ever implemented/refined it or not though. My feeling is if I walk into a dark room I want the light to turn on now not after multiple motion senses. My laundry room is the main path from inside the house out into the garage/workroom where I am most of the time. I had the motion trigger the light every time someone entered that room. I soon changed the programming to require manually turning on the light then one minute after motion stopped the light would turn off because most of the time the light was not needed for just passing thru. That works great for that room and I don’t miss the light turning on automatically at all. However in all of the other rooms in the house the respective lights will turn on when entering that room and stay on x amount of time once the motion stops or the light is turned off manually. This setup has worked best for us out of the countless different ways I have tried. But everyone is different…..

I have used both in the past without any issues. The newest rev Insteon can be set for sending an On command with every motion detection which would be better for occupancy sensing. Not so sure it would be good for power line comm. though, but I haven't heard of any complaints.