TJF1960

I should think that info would be included in the Elk owners manual. I have a DSC alarm and when any user code is entered the system automatically arms from a dis-armed state. If an entry/exit door is opened during the exit period the alarm arms in away mode otherwise it arms in the stay mode. Have you tried entering her code to see what will happen?

I don't have an Elk but it seems to me you could used the Elk's Armed State, if the Elk is disarmed set tstat to whatever. Then as oberkc suggested after a half hour or so of no motion detection reset the tstat. It also seems to me that she should be able to re-arm the alarm using her code, but again I don't have an Elk. But if she could arm with her code then the Elk's Armed state could be used again to reset the tstat.

Hello JMC, Here is Michel's announcement from another thread: Hello all, We need a few volunteers to test the enhancements (for accuracy) as proposed by IndyMike. Please note that this will be a separate branch outside the current beta so as to not disturb existing installations. I suspect we would need about a month of testing to ensure calculations are accurate. If you are interested, please send an email to support@universal-devices.com with subject "New ET Firmware". Thanks in advance and with kind regards, Michel _________________ Michel Kohanim Universal Devices, Inc. ISY-99i/ISY-26 INSTEON Wiki Submit a ticket The original thread fount here. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=8771&start=0

jmed999, Some of my devices LED's also vary a bit in brightness when set to the same level. It got to the point before installing multiple devices in the same gang box that I would bench test them beforehand (esp. kpl's), side by side for LED brightness compatablility. But never have I had some as bad as you with the 145 point spread! Thats a pretty wide gap. LED's can vary pretty widely in intensity even from the same batch after production. Near as I could tell on my switchlinc's 255 seemed to be about 50 to 75% brightness. If I remember correctly setting to 0 was full brightness and setting to 1 was off (or the other way around).

Xathros, out of curiosity is this method of testing the internet connection still working for you? If so what version are you on, still 3.2.6? Thanks, Tim

Hmm. Well you could use a Triggerlinc (I think its called) at the top of each of the garage doors. Then just add the status of them to the program. When the garage door closes the triggerlink will change status right away causing the program to run. Or get a Simplehomenet EZIO2x4 which would take care of 2 doors (2 relays) and 4 sets of inputs (2 contacts per door).

This will turn the garage light on for 10 minutes anytime either garage door sensor status changes. If Status of Garage Door1 is On Or Status of Garage Door2 is On Then Turn Garage Light On Wait 10 minutes Turn Garage Light Off Else Turn Garage Light On Wait 10 minutes Turn Garage Light Off

Yes, but because I have to. I was looking for a method of printing for kpl buttons a few years ago and I came across a thread in the smarthome forum of someone using these http://www.papilio.com/white%20inkjet%20waterslide%20decal%20transfer%20paper%20media.html which are inkjet white water slide decals. Since they are water slide I have to spray them after printing and before cutting and wetting with a clear acrylic coat. Then after they dry on the buttons another coat or two is applied. Its kind of a pain and a long drawn out process, but the results are very nice. I asked about the clear coat because I am looking for a quicker, easier method of making the labels.

After sticking the printed label on do you spray them with a clear coat?

WhiteSax, Very clever, and well laid out description. It worked for me the first time I followed your instructions....Awesome tip! It's a nice have all the devices beep at once. Thanks for sharing. Tim

Try opening a browser and typing in http://whatismyipaddress.com/ this website will show what your WAN ip address is. Then try https://yourwanipaddress:port#/admin

Hello NickMach007, I am sure you have probably tried https://hostname.zapto.org:port# or https://hostname.zapto:port#/admin, but just in case you haven't. Also can you access from https://your modems ip address:port#/admin ? Tim

Or KPL C was turned On after Sunset had already occured.

Wow apostolakisl, Nice One! I am with oberkc, I would have bet that it wouldn't have worked either. But sure enough it does work. Nice Job!

Using the CAI WebControl boards http://www.cainetworks.com/products/webcontrol/index.html and using the 1 wire temp sensors from Maxim DS1820/DS1822 http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS1822.pdf I am using the CAIWC program on a Pogoplug http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=7998 or you can also use WCLink http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=6612. Both programs work very well. The programs send the temps to variables in ISY.

Did you have the foam put in during new construction or existing construction. I haven't heard of it being done...will have to do some surfing to find out more about it. That’s a huge temp differential. I too am using the webcontrol boards along with the caiwc program. I keep finding more reasons to buy them and implement them around the house. Thanks, Tim

Hello jdunne, You could, but the other possible issue would be if the "'Climate' Irrigation Requirement" changes while the program is running it would start the program over again so what has been watered would be watered again. Michel's suggestion of breaking the program into two is your best option for non-interrupted watering. Tim

No but you know what, that is a very good idea. I am going to check into doing that. I have sat and watched the temp in the attic drop when the fans turn on, but its been a while and I don’t remember by how much. When I get some time I am going to look into it again. Knowing the builder of these homes - I wouldn’t be surprised that I have at least few leaks into the attic and I am going to have to address them the best I can. In the mean time there are at least plenty of intake vents in both the soffits and gable ends. Thanks, Tim

Hello jmed999, I have two roof mount attic fans which are each controlled by their own Switchlinc Relay. Once the attic temp reaches a set temperature I have programs which turn them on one at a time. I have them run for about a half hour each at a time then cycle off for a bit. Still trying to play with them to get the most benefit (air flow/cool down vs electric use). Haven't drawn any conclusions just yet. I did bypass 1 of the attic fan thermostats so it is directly controlled by its SL relay switch at all times, the other attic fans thermostat is still active but was set pretty low so when its warm in the attic its thermostat is on at which point the SL relay is in full control of the fan operation. Tim

Hello bsobel, Can you paste your program.

glase, just sent you a pm.

Xathros, Very clever! I can confirm that removing the RG6 cable from the cable modem and testing the network command returns an error and does not update the variable. Once the cable is restored and the command is retested a positive confirmation is returned and the variable is updated. At least it does work here on my system with Comcast internet. Thanks, Tim

Hello jay5, Is the motion sensor directly linked to any of the switches in the three-way scene or is the motion just linked to the plm/ISY? In order for the turn off program to work, the motion cannot be directly linked to 'Laundry (1) switch. When you turn the three-way scene on locally does the ISY admin console correctly indicate the status level of "'Laundry (1)"?

Maybe try changing the routers outside access port to 4443 and have it forwarded to 443 to match the ISY port.

Hello glase, Just to be clear, are you adding the port and the word admin at the end of your https url? Like https://75.xxx.xx.xxx:443