Scottmichaelj

My new custom ordered 2017 Aston Martin DB11 arrived in port on March 27th and was put on a truck from Irvine CA today. So to make room, my "old" 2011 Aston Martin DB9 is now up for sale. Sad to see it go, she was my first. I will always remember my first. http://www.parkplaceastonmartin.com/used-inventory/detail/Used-2011-Aston-Martin-2dr-Cpe-Auto/995/SCFFDAAE2BGA13183

You get things working?

Too late to suggest a magic mirror?

I am going to do some research and see if there's a way we can have any files played through the Elk speaker. Essentially its a speaker so the files should play. Ill post my findings.

Are you sending custom sounds/recordings stored on a an always on PC/NAS using the ISY NR to Elk speaker?

Would you share your code with the parameters?

So because I was so lazy last week I felt I needed to step up my game this weekend to get things done. I took the "time change" BS to do the typical "check your shit" routine (even though I was late). So today I checked all the windows and doors that the alarm is working correctly. I did a quick spot check under all the sinks to make sure there are no small leaks. Checked my smokies (and CO2) with actual smoke in a can and made sure the monitoring company got all the notifications. The biggest task (and rewarding) was cleaning the dryer lint. I have a gas dryer and I am always making sure to remote lint from the lint trap but the exhaust on the side of my home clearly shows that doesn't stop it all. I looked at a few Youtube videos and frankly one really scared the shit out of me. This one: https://youtu.be/vfExQ3mwBH8 It appears not all the dryer flex ducting is created equal. So I found a fire retardant UL listed one on Amazon and ordered it. LAMBRO INDUSTRIES 3120L Flex Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOAYL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_KRgLn9mo4ycRw Then I moved the dryer out, removed the duct work and thoroughly cleaned the lint from everything. I then took my leaf blower and blew the lint out from the ducting itself. A bunch flew out from the exhaust on the side of the house. I ran it for quite a while and once no more lint blew out I stopped. Heres a video I saw that gave me the idea. https://youtu.be/dO9Y5j1uhqk One that was done I took my webby spider web head and made sure to remove the last of the lint from the exhaust. Then installed the new duct work. If you haven't seen the webheads check it out here. Starmax 050-06 Webster Cob Web Duster Replacement Head, Blue (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TRZUC4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Vgb2yb7FPDWSD I'm sure its more effective drying now too but at least I know I am safer from lint fires. I couldn't believe how much did still come out. Lint fires aren't no joke! Now off to finish up. Cleaned the electric air filters (washable) so need to go put them back in. Just took five to relax. Hope everyone is having a wonderful weekend!

I'm sure you know this but the Insteon Motions can detect both motion and brightness. I use several around my home to see if two rooms are dark then turn on my sunset scene. #JustSayin

Today I worked from bed and didn't get dressed. Made 2% on my $TNA trade.

I was adding failover lte and my tags went offline. So I know the cell network blocks them. Might be an ISP thing but NAT firewall rules work both ways. Like I suggested make sure it allows any in and any out for ports and protocols for that IP.

Look at the CAO wireless tag thread. You will install a "KumoApp" which is basically a script that you copy paste to the tag manager site.

You might try "any in, to any out" and "any out, to any in" for just that IP. Also if you add another router put the frontier into bridge mode and turn everything OFF - firewall, DHCP server etc. Then the new router needs to be setup with the firewalls, port forwards etc. Might be more time spent that its worth. I personally would try and get the Frontier device working. At least now your getting it to connect and staying connected for longer periods of time. Does that router show device states? If so filter the tag manager IP and see what ports its really trying to connect to.

As of today Alexa works within the official Amazon app on my iPhone. It controls all devices just like the Amazon Devices except its not always ON. Enjoy!

Edit: OK go back to NAPT and add your tag IP to the NAT tables rules. Heres instructions. Make sure to reboot. Hopefully we can get you up and working. Im trying! http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r24829180-Actiontec-MI424WR-How-to-enable-StaticNAT-IPpassthrough

Yeah and most people have their "Home" address in Waze/navigation app. Open the garage door, close it, filler up, no one even knows.

I found this: http://www.dslreports.com/faq/4626 For fun change it to "route" reboot and see what happens. Also for testing if you haven't already plug the smart tag into the router/modem and change cables. I could be wrong but think your having a NAT issue. I haven't worked with a lot of DECA/MOCA devices but they should all behave the same.

Whats the options under "routing mode"?

Theres also been an app called "Roger" and I heard the Amazon App will have Alexa builtin starting as soon as next week.

Why not do if its Sunset and Elk is armed away then run your scene? Also try "CONTROL" - Maybe you have a communication error and its not picking up the status of carport light being turned on? Have you verified? EDIT: If Elk Area 'HOME' 'Armed State' is Armed Away And Time is Sunset Then Set Scene 'All Outside Lighting' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I maybe off base but could this be Double NAT issue/loop?

For a simple test plug in an appliancelinc into the plug and then plug your pump into it. If you can turn on/off the pump then the Insteon signal is able to reach the pool. Then rip out the Hayward stuff and use a On/Off outdoor Insteon Module. Keep it simple.

We can't be completely a cure that the API wasn't given to UDI. You only heard from one side. Plus that doesn't prove anything. UDI has an employee who works for Smarthome/Insteon. Come on. That has nothing to do with reliability either. The other question is why would want a PLM in your hub when they are crap OR why wouldn't Smarthome allow UDI the PLM chip? This my friends is the bigger mystery! [emoji12]

I posted the link in my post. Strange. Here try this. https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKqXxhKj-VjqKzdBYPeqQUM2No2Ps7qU3

That's quite a list my friend! Lol [emoji3]Although I am sure we all have lists just as long as other priorities get in the way of the "fun stuff". Search around the forum, there's been posts about most of the things your looking to do that others want to, are doing or have done. This forum is a great resource not for just ISY things but other areas as well. There are a lot of smart people here willing to lend a helping hand so don't be afraid to ask. That's a reason I liked to do this thread, someone always has something interesting going or being worked on or doing. Not all being Home Automation and tech. BTW have you guys seen Adam Savage's Youtube series "One Day Builds"? Pretty cool stuff. Interesting just watching him and how he thinks. https://youtu.be/-tUHJnl8qPM?list=PLKqXxhKj-VjqKzdBYPeqQUM2No2Ps7qU3

I used to have a saltwater aquarium. I started like everyone else with freshwater then went to salt. After about 10 years I lost interest in cleaning it twice a month. For someone who is OCD I think so Otherwise its a "complete mess!" lol This morning I went back out and spent a couple hours just printing labels for each wall wart and power cables (both ends) so going forward I knew what each one was for. I also added another Digital Loggers Power Switch and removed all the old vertical surge protectors. Now everything that is plugged into the rack also has a network IP controlled outlet. In bed and need to reboot the DTV box? No problem! My next time suck will be doing labels for the 40 something hardwired devices that go to the network switch. I spent a good part of my evenings last week doing DHCP reservations and grouping all devices by type (IP range/group). The plan now is to print labels with numbers on each CAT cable then write down the actual device it goes to. Then I will print a sheet and attach it to the inside of the rack. Then if I unplug something I can just plug it back into the same port. I will also put the number on the opposite side of the cable so when if I unplug it from the device side I know what port on the switch it goes too. Once all thats done then I will rip it all apart and do something else and have to change it all again. HAHAHA