Scottmichaelj

Insteon vs Homelink https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=23986&share_tid=21419&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Euniversal-devices%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F21419-Insteon-vs-Homelink&share_type=t

Do your cars have a HomeLink button in the mirror unused? You could use that linked to a garage door sensor with IOLink. Make a program that when the I/O link is toggled it unlocks the door. Look for my thread about arming Elk with HomeLink. There’s an archived thread here. Same concept.

Unfortunately you need to have the HD hub to talk to the blinds.m, which is proprietary. Also to be fair you need to have network resources on the ISY as well, either purchased outright via the module or included with the ISY portal.

Check out this thread Hunter Douglas Powerview Control with ISY https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=23986&share_tid=16538&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Euniversal-devices%2Ecom%2Fapplications%2Ftapatalk%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F16538-Hunter-Douglas-Powerview-Control-with-ISY&share_type=t

Aeotec MultiSensor 6 picks up my Italian Greyhounds (13lbs) just fine. I use it to light the way for them at night to be able to go outside.

I had a pool, I also have a life, job, family and obligations. The evaporation pool water in certain areas could be gallons a day. Sitting there with a 3/4” hose filling it back up it tedious and can become time-consuming. Maybe I was lucky my “filler” never got stuck ON but the float with auto fill worked perfectly. The negative of course is IF the filler ever got stuck ON, but like I said above most pools have drains that are larger then the water filler, so worst case I would waste water. Also the drains are normally installed higher than the fill level of the pool. Typically you set the pool about 1” lower than the drains. This way you could visibly see if the pool is too full, alerting you something maybe wrong. If the filler is stuck ON it won’t overflow the pool and second if there is heavy rain the drains should keep up. I had my home/pool for six years and NEVER had one problem with the filler and float combo. My drains were connected to the main sewer drains and went out to the street. My home was built in 2006 in a new development. I understand some don’t always have this luxury. Because my pool was “in ground” at the house level we also had a large full length “deco drain” running in before the back of our home so all water from the pool/rain would not collect and drain out as well to avoid flooding the house. Super cool system. IMHO at the end of the day this was the proper setup. The only thing I would have added was a notification that the filler has been on for too long just to be in the loop, but never got to it. The house was also already built so I didn’t have as many options as a new construction home. However when I took off on vacation or long extended periods when I wasn’t needing the pool, like winter, I would just turn the auto filler off. Simple. Sometimes you don’t need to over think it and get crazy. Edit: Here’s photos of my backyard and pool right before I moved out.

True but most pools (if done correctly) have drains for overflow. Usually a pool refill valve will not fill faster than the drain(s). Now hopefully those drains are done properly, but that’s another issue. The key here is knowing if the refiller is stuck ON. If everything is setup properly you may never know.

Wouldn’t a better approach be to add a float valve and just add water when it drops automatically? I had this on my pool and it was kind of a set and forget type of thing.

Sorry good catch. That was supposed to be his 10min wait for the dog to go out. Typo ??‍♂️ Edit: My OCD would make the time first then the door violated for the IF portion. ?

Could ZWave not be reporting status properly? I don’t have ZWave so I am unsure. Edit: IE it’s showing the switch on&off in the admin console right?

Take out the sunset and sunrise for now and test. Does that work? Try just a simple program. Also your Elk module is indeed working? You have imported all the zones? When you open the door does the zone show violated in the ISY? Edit: also make sure your time is set properly on the ISY, your location too and it shows the correct sunrise/sunset in the top bar.

I am sorry I do not have any ZWave devices or switches but try this... If Elk Zone 'Deck Door' is Violated And Set 'ZW 003 Multilevel Switch' Off And From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) Then Set 'ZW 003 Multilevel Switch' On Wait 10 minutes Else Set 'ZW 003 Multilevel Switch' Off (If the above conditions are not met then the light is off) FWIW "repeat" line goes at the top and repeats everything under the command. If you need repeats you should be looking at your network closer too as they really shouldnt be needed. You dont need to use variables for this either its just complicating things. Also you can make a new "FOLDER" and call it Sunset to Sunrise and make an IF statement on it to run just those programs inside it during that timeframe. Sunset to Sunrise Folder Conditions for 'Sunset to Sunrise' If From Sunset To Sunrise (Next Day) Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. I am not 100% perfect on programs and still need help time to time myself, but this should hopefully get you going.

What’s your ISY program look like? Right click on the program and copy to clipboard and paste here. Are you using “ELSE”? Also you need to use “Elk” in the program drop downs and when “X zone is violated”.

Bummer, full ON happened again tonight on a three way switched scene. [emoji848][emoji36]

Yeah that’s not it. Tonight I set my lamps to 40% via MobiLinc and it did the FAST ON. I am not certain the ramp rate increase is the solution either.

You a goofball! [emoji13] It doesn’t happen all the time but every once in a while it happens. It happened tonight but I just tried to replicate it and can’t get it to happen. I think Stu’s made a good point even if he didn’t mean too, lol. I will try and increase the ramp rate speed to make it slower to see if that helps. Maybe there’s a small micro delay and even though the ISY sees the right level it’s then thinking the button is still being pressed due to some type of lag in the system power line due to the LEDs. Making it slower might help resolve this.

There doesn’t seem to be any coronation between the load being off or at a certain brightness, say 30%. Same thing happens. The loads are all LEDs. The strangest part is the fact the ISY admin console does see the on level properly but then it will suddenly goes to full on. I have not tried to change the ramp rate to a slower setting though, might be a good idea.

Both, around 4s - I like a smooth ramp rate. More on scenes. Also the ISY sees the end level percentage but then goes full on. Tried writing to the device/scene just to be sure but no change.

Has anyone seen any issues when say dimming or brighten a single light with a 2477 when you stop at the desired level it will turn fast on to 100%? I am seeing this happen in my house a lot lately when trying to brighten from off. It happens on KPLs too and scenes so it’s not specific to just a single switched light. FW is v4.6.2

TBH I don’t know. I would suggest going to their forum and doing a bit of research. http://brultech.com/community/ Also maybe PM Teken, he has a system too and helped me get mine going. That said if you want to see a real life example I would be happy to show you my setup and talk with you on the phone to answer questions etc to the best of my ability. I don’t have any data going to the ISY yet because I just don’t personally have a need right now. I get everything I need from the Dashbox. I am going to probably want to do the same thing as I replace devices with ZWave or whatever that have Energy Monitorting incorporated in the actual device too down the road. Edit: BTW I don’t think I drank any of that even as a poor teenager! Lol

Nice! Some people use the Brultech Greeneye monitor with the Dashbox. It’s a pretty powerful combo and can integrate with the ISY. Of course it’s pricey but adds lots of functionality too. The url to their site is below of your interested. http://www.brultech.com/ And yes I am going to sue you since you did it yesterday! Wonder how much can I get? [emoji13] My wine is going fast! Hahah

Today my wife and I spent the afternoon trying to help a dog in need. My wife is a rescue rep for the Italian Greyhound Rescue and this adorable one year old came for help. Unfortunately Rover is not an Italian Greyhound so the IGCA can’t help financially but if he doesn’t get the surgery he needs he will have to be put down. His owner Paul rescued him from the SPCA and needs some help with the cost of surgery. I have donated to the cause and usually wouldn’t ask for help but he is only a year old and damn if he isn’t the cutest puppy you have ever seen! If you could spare anything it would be greatly appreciated. I won’t keep posting but if you could help... https://www.gofundme.com/rover-james-needs-emergency-surgery

Finally took time today to “sort” my wines from my month long Napa trip in December. Now to find and order another large wine fridge to store them. My other wine fringes in the house are full to the brim too! #RoughLife #NapaWineSnob

The button doesn’t need to be in toggle mode. Otherwise if you wanted to know the program was running/ran you wouldn’t because the buttons wouldn’t be lit. It’s optional depending on the need of the program.

Make a program that responds to that button press. Then link Alexa to the program in the portal. Then when you press the KPL the program runs OR if you ask Alexa to run the program it will. You will have to add the KPL button to turn on/off too via the program.