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Everything posted by Scottmichaelj
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Yeah not sure whats up. The old unit was v1.4 and still had Smarthome printed on the front so thats an oldie. The new one was v2.4 with Insteon printed on the front. Its been in the box for a while so it could have failed or came damaged but I didnt know. Ill post back. It might be something with the electronic ignition box for all I know. Maybe the IOLinc isnt pushing enough power to get it to switch on and the actual fireplace part is starting to fail. Why it works with the manual switch kind of makes me think thats not the case though. Ill know on Saturday [emoji3]
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Post 33 I said I dont hear a click on any of them either using the admin console or pressing the set button. I even asked to have it confirmed it should, which was. Mine are not clicking. Like I said its $40 - I can afford new ones. If they dont work then it has to be something else. I feel no reading on the meter and no clicky means they are dead.
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I believe they are both bad. I tested with a meter and the reading didn't change on/off. I did say in my initials first post that in the admin console will control the on and off like it should also the sense was working as well. So that was answered and my initial post I thought was pretty detailed and took most of the steps reasonable to troubleshoot. Stu brought up the meter which I didnt do and Larry mentioned cleaning the contacts so for a shot did that too. Nada. That being said I am not going to keep spending time to diagnose a $40 IOLinc. I ordered two from Amazon which should be here Saturday. Ill toss one in and see what happens and report back.
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That's exactly what I been waiting for. A template design (via file) I can sent out to have made for the Neje that I can just drop in a button in and load a presaved file to produce OEM high quality etches on my buttons. I am OCD and want a perfect print everytime so willing to pay to play. Thanks for all your contributions to this product. I hope to share with the github when Im up and running. Guess Ill pull the trigger and get this model too. I was looking at the 1000W model as the pad/etching area looked bigger and it had a fan but why buck the system? Ill be a lemming and follow along. [emoji3]
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Two, but they don't have accidents in the house. A neighbor though loves her Roomba until she came home to see dog excrement smeared all over the hardwood and carpet. [emoji13]
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Seems like the Neje is the go to choice. Do you have a 3D printer? Are you planning on making a KPL and Switchlinc templates for the Neje? I would love to see the design templates be able to be produced so others like me can get them printed/made.
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What printer/etcher did you end up getting?
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I do like the vacuum idea. https://techcrunch.com/2016/12/28/samsung-vacuum/
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Thanks I will give this a try. Yeah you know Murphy's law? Not just him either! Everything works like it "should" except the load not turning on. The plug is fine since the blower fan works. I also used a plug tester and the plug is fine. The fireplace works back in original manual setup. I will have to get my meter out like Stu said. I figured since I didnt hear the relay click assumed both were just bad. But you know what they say about when you "assume"!
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Thanks Larry no change. Unpluged I/O Linc for about 10 seconds, then while holding down the Set button, plugged I/O Linc back in, making sure not to let go of the Set button. Then continued to hold down the Set button for 3 seconds the I/O Linc Status LED will flashed once and then turned off for a few seconds. I/O Linc will beeped as its Status LED turned back on. Reset it a couple times (didnt try this before) but no change. Just to confirm though as Stu said, and IIRC, anytime you tap the set button ON/OFF you will hear a "Click" when the relay turns on/off correct? I don't hear a click for either IOLincs, so I may have duds. I think I give up and will contact Smarthome for replacements. Although I would love to hear back confirmation that indeed I should here the relay make a "click" sound on the IOLinc when pressing the set button on/off.
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All above was correct as posted. The sense is working when the switch is also turned on/off as mentioned too. The switch off and pressing the side button I can not hear the relay click on either IOLIncs. Both bad? Thanks, tried this as well, no luck. Relay was following sensor so not sure why this option is there unless my units are older and this changes on newer models? Hmm these are the only two I have too! Guess my only option is replacing them.
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OK So it seems I must have jinxed myself. I cant seem to get my IOLinc relay to turn on my fireplace. See above post for pix how I had it hooked up, but have N/O and common going to the fireplace and Ground/Sense from the switch. Worked fine for years this way. Things I tested: -Switch will turn on the relay and sensor nodes and I am seeing the changes of ON/OFF status on the LED on the IOLINC and in the admin window so the connections are working. -Double checked the IOLinc options and reset latching for 10s (nothing has changed and its always been this way) -Removing the IOLinc and putting the switch wires direct to the fireplace connections that were on the N/O and Common will make the fireplace turn on and off via the switch manually. -Replaced the IOLinc with a backup, zero change. So could both my IOLincs be bad? Thats a hell of a coincidence but possible, I guess but if they were bad the switch wouldnt turn it on/off and admin panel show it working. Or at least I would have communication errors or something you would think? If the igniter on the fireplace or any other part on the fireplace was bad the manual switch/connection shouldnt work either right? Suggestions? EDIT: Showing full 120V AV power at the plug and the motorized blower fan is working when in manual switching mode like it should too.
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Two decades? For the city? Then your also a professor/teacher? Plus IIRC you said you worked in electric utilities too like Larry. What haven't you done? Next your going to tell me your a lawyer now and that's what you tech to cover all bases? Maybe we need to investigate you job history. How old are you? Like dinosaur old? [emoji12]
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I love that everyone is a code enforcer and lawyers. Cap it off, label it low voltage for fireplace and tape it to the inside of the box. If you want to go back to stock or original way you found it you can. Geez guys your all making a mountain out of a mole hill! [emoji12]
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And oh do I have many issues! [emoji12]lol but to be honest you have your fair share! Edit: #AdHominem attack!
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You mean you have issues like this? [emoji12] Left the admin console open overnight on my Windows 7 machine and in the morning everything is crawling slow to open and my memory is maxed out. Using the admin.jsp - Yeah Java! Who ever decided this was a good biz decision to rely their products on should be fired. Hopefully the same mistake won't be made again. Edit: For those who don't know that's 13GBs of memory used OVERNIGHT!
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I don't think MiLights will work. PM @larryllix he can set you straight he has some. We have been moving to the Ledenet Magic UFO controllers. Search the forum for RGBW controller threads.
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So the switch just uses low volt cat5, security or telephone 2 wire to the fireplace to complete the loop when switched on. Plug your IOLinc under the fireplace and take the connections that would go from the fireplace to the switch and put them in N/O and C on the IOLinc. Then from the switch to the fireplace use the ground and sense connections. Like this: So the left side is from the switch and right side is from the fireplace (the leads that would go to the switch). That's all there is to it. Now you can use the switch as normal to turn it on and off. Now in the ISY add the IOLinc and then go into options and make it momentary with 10s delay or so. The IOLinc will have two nodes, sensor and relay. Then for safety, in your programming you can do something like controlling the fireplace via a remote or Amazon echo directly via the relay BUT in the program say "if sensor is on" (which is the switch) then turn on relay. Otherwise if your on vacation and the switch is off the fireplace can't turn on. Hope this helps. Post back if you need more help. Ill be happy to. Edit: Here was the other helpful thread before it got off topic. Automating a gas fireplace and fan https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Euniversal-devices%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F17378-Automating-a-gas-fireplace-and-fan&share_tid=17378&share_fid=23986&share_type=t
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If you use an IOLinc direct with the low volt switch its easy to setup. There's a thread around that talks about how to do the connections.
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IOLinc like you say is best.
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You ever get things going? I am looking to start this project too myself. However I have a SIEMENS GENTFRSWTCH Automatic Transfer Switch in my SIEMENS Load Center panel. See my post here - https://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1692
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Collecting and Logging Temperature and Humidity
Scottmichaelj replied to bbuchanan99's topic in ISY994
I'm just the guy who throws the boulder in the puddle to watch the ripples. [emoji12] OP wanted Humidity, Temp and Charts. I gave my opinion then we got the typical Teken rant as expected. I just dropped the mic and walked out. Lol Just busting your chops TPain! -
Collecting and Logging Temperature and Humidity
Scottmichaelj replied to bbuchanan99's topic in ISY994
Your post above. Granted its 48 of them. Who cares this is boring me. Lets find something else more interesting to fight over. Your mommas so ugly...[emoji12] -
Collecting and Logging Temperature and Humidity
Scottmichaelj replied to bbuchanan99's topic in ISY994
Yup $1200+ literally more than 10 times the cost not including labor. The CAO tags cost maybe $100 - $79 for the tag manager and $26 for the tag. Setup is easy. -
Collecting and Logging Temperature and Humidity
Scottmichaelj replied to bbuchanan99's topic in ISY994
That's fine and dandy and I agree with what your saying. However for me the pros outweigh the cons for the tags. My attic did not get hotter than 115F last summer so my tags may last forever. Sure I need to swap out a CR232 battery when it dies but will give me an excuse to clean the air filter while I am up there. If it fails so be it, its not a critical item and like I said $26 each. So while I agree, spend the money to do it right the first time, there was no way I was going to try and wire a new run for 1-wire device to the hub or whatever it needs. If you want to, great but I rather sit on my *** having a glass of wine then sweating my *** off in the attic cussing myself out for putting myself through that pain for something I could literally do in 5mins! Add tag totag manager, open attic access, toss tag in attic, close access, donzo. Go have some wine. Not all projects need to spend money and time on. However its up to each person to decide.