Scottmichaelj

Yup. Using those HomeLink buttons in the mirror in the car. There are usually three. You can use one for open/close then the other two to do whatever. Add some push notifications to your phone to know its been activated and your golden.

What about using an IOLinc with the garage door opener to arm/disarm the garage door along with notifications and solid program? I posted instructions on another thread if you search for it. EDIT: Sorry that was a dumb question. You don't have an ELK and you wanted the KEYFOB to work with the ISY. Let me step back and say depending on what you want the KEYFOB to do (using it in the car to do "X") then my IOLInc maybe a solution. Just change the instructions to run whatever program you want instead of arming/disarming the alarm. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16092-homelink-and-isy/page-2?hl=homelink

You just go into the ELKRP and delete the missing FOB. This is why you should write down who has what device. Once its deleted from the panel its no good. So your kid would have to loose it, the person who finds it has to know your address and come over before you remove the FOB to rob you. Sounds like a perfect heist. The issue becomes I guess the kid doesn't know its lost. I get notifications for every time I arm and disarm the alarm via Pushover. You could setup a notification per FOB to say who is arming and disarming the house to keep track. Its not 100% but if you know the kids are supposed to be at school and you see it disarm you can figure out WTH is going on.

Your a barbarian.

I am missing the point why anyone needs a remote or FOB anymore. That being said as a security guy I do suggest most people who have an ELK have a FOB. I think its great to have when answering the door to strangers or unexpected guest, or put in main rooms so if you see someone walking in your backyard that shouldn't be. One in a nightstand by your bed so in the middle of the night its accessible. For older people have one for emergencies in case you fall and can't get up. They are useful. For actual arming/disarming of the alarm coming and going I think there are better solutions. In the past I used an IOLinc with the garage door opener to arm/disarm the garage door along with notifications and solid program. EDIT: Is what I said above a possible solution for you instead of a Keyfob? No ELK needed.

You can set any rule to any FOB button (ELK has 4)- ALL KEYFOBS buttons will work the same, the FOBS can't be customized individually. So lets say you have two FOBS. Both can be setup to use any button as you wish but that button will work the same on all the FOBS. You can't have button 1 of KOB1 say turn on the lights and button 1 on FOB2 arm the alarm. The buttons all work the same on all FOBS. My point is, if you want to keep a FOB in the kitchen just to do kitchen lights and then a FOB in the bedroom to do bedroom lights that wont work.

Gary, the "BUTTONS" are preset to work the same on ALL the FOBS. So button 1 can run any rule/setting however that button has to work the same on all the FOBS. So the buttons ALL behave the same regardless how many FOBs you have and cannot be customized per FOB. Does this make sense?

Your being too literal or I assumed too much. [emoji3] He said he didn't have an ELK but figured he needed it to work with the Elk keyfob. So I assumed IF I posted he would know that the ELK system would be required but also the module for the ISY. Sorry if I didn't spell this out exactly perfect.

The ELK keyfob will work fine as long as you have the ELK module. Just create the rules in the ELKRP software. The only thing I can't remember off the top of my head is if each keyfob buttons have to be the same or if each keyfob buttons can be different.

PM sent

Where do you see/get the $10. I am too a Amazon DOT owner from previous. I actually got my DOT right before they discontinued it.

And your disconnected from the Elk with ElkRP?

Assume you have these modes available on the Elk?

I have the Honeywell TruFesh system with multiple zones with dampers that close off upstairs and downstairs and on/off when zone is needed. See my other full post under thermostats. There is an air purifier installed in my home as well.

We have Elk speakers [emoji12]

Your right I need to learn how to read. [emoji12] Like you I clear mine out frequently and go to the app if needed. Its not a "big flaw" to me.

I can not reproduce this. I am using iOS 9.3.4 with the current Pushover app. I went into the app and ALL my push notifications are there and go back to Aug 1st. Theres a setting inside the PO app to keep "Max Messages" to (500 max) and thats how many it shows broken down by app. Why does it matter if its in the app or notification settings as long as you see them? Is 500 not enough? Today is the 21st so I have about 21 days to go back to. Sure its not logged indefinitely. A workaround maybe to use IFTTT or email client to keep notifications logged forever if thats what your after. Thoughts?

So I will add... In both my home builds the hot water tank size and gas size were grossly under estimated. Do the calculations based on what you want and how many of those items (gas/water) running at the same time for your needs. Many people don't do this so in the morning if there are four people getting ready around the same time and everyone takes a shower you could run out of hot water. Or doing a load of dishes and washing your clothes at night again running out of hot water. Dont buy into the HWT "recovery time BS" do hard cacls. If you spend "X" time in the shower and the shower head uses "X" gallons per minute then make sure thats what you have in storage. Recovery time is very loosely based. This also brings up water pressure. You may see about doing a larger line from the HWTs out into the house. If you plumb for natural gas for a BBQ, firepit, and have a upgraded gas fireplace and 6 burner stove, gas furnace, and want to run them all at the same time, guess what, you need larger gas pipe in. Teken touched on the circuits. If you can do a 50Amp for the oven/microwave as some higher end appliances need it, especially if you do a combo unit. I didnt do this and upgraded to a Thermador oven/micro and had to run a new circuit! Doh! Wasnt cheap!

I just want to live in my happy bubble. [emoji12] Edit: Was Huddadudda, was Scottmichaelj, now known as "BubbleBoy"

Teken, as always good info but if you are not doing a custom home build then some of these suggestions are "when pigs fly" [emoji200] as most builders wont hardly let you do anything outside their normal build process. I have built two homes (not custom) and both builders were very difficult to get any changes to the structure as they file with the city, engineering etc. Added outlets, conduit, cat6 placement sure. Getting deeper into things...doubtful. Maybe depends on your location and housing demand too. Right now theres a housing shortage so getting anything done they just say no and either you accept that or move on. The only way a house that "Teken builds" is a total custom job. Still good info, especially for anyone building a custom home and overall to think about.

Thank you for dragging me in as your partner in crime! [emoji57]You don't think I get into enough trouble here on my own, so you gotta drag me into more! Lol jk Its all good. [emoji41]Chill out and stop being a troublemaker and ranting. Hahah

Teken has hit most of the major bullet points. Conduit being top priority if the builder is not willing to budge on the other stuff. If the house is being built depending on the supervisor you "could" make friends ($$) and do a few things here and there on the weekend.

I'm (was) Huddadudda now I am just me. [emoji3] I get into enough trouble on this forum on my own! Lol

Doh! [emoji854]

Ha! I wasnt wrong after all! If email it's probably the security changes we have been talking about.