Teken

I would just take a small lamp or night light and try. I hope this works out and keep us all in the loop!

My thoughts are (speaking aloud) is if you attach something to this STB while its in the off position. Any auxiliary device would also be powered off whether it be USB / Switched AC outlet. In the powered on position I would have to assume it would start to power those Aux ports, no? This would allow you to use those Aux devices (you choose) that would allow the Synchrolink to detect a larger spread in actual power of on/off. I am sorry if I am unclear because I am trying to find the exact words to describe this.

I guess in your use case just knowing the cycle is completed is fine. For me I wanted to know when it turned on and the power level. Coupled with the maximum / minimum power load and operational run time of the appliance. The Synchrolinc wasn't able to accomplish those goals. Hence why I went the full on energy monitoring route.

I am assuming the different cycles are giving you grief to calibrate to the washer? This is the primary reason I abandoned this effort because there was no *consistent* and reliable method to detect On, Cycle, Off modes. I have no issue doing it now via the GEM Energy Monitor and ISY programs. I haven't looked back since . . .

Hello Simon, I have been known to wonder the forums looking for trouble this is true! Could I perhaps offer another (possible) alternative? Does this device have any extra outlets or USB ports? I ask because often times when a device is in standby / off these ports or outlets are powered down. This might allow you to distinguish the actual on / off via the synchrolink. Also, if this is device is network enabled and does in fact can be pinged may I suggest a web enabled power switch? We use these sorts of devices all over the world to remotely power down, cycle, and activate devices. One of the key features is a *ping alive* where you set parameters that suite your needs. Should the device not reply back based on your user settings the remote switch will cycle the power. I thought I would offer these two suggestions in case they are something you had not considered.

This was the item I listed in the first link I believe also.

Hello Simon, I believe you're correct the difference is too small for the Syncrolinc to activate. But, I am a little taken aback when you indicate this device is off it still consumes almost the same power??? If so throw it out the window because nothing like that should consume 99% of the same energy while powered off even if its standby energy.

Here is the thread where a few people offered some ideas and devices to accomplish the end goal: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13299&SearchTerms=240,load,controller Near the bottom of this thread mwester offers a link and his comments: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11135&SearchTerms=240,load,controller This is the route I shall follow moving forward if the load controller does not operate as expected.

I am not familiar with EZ brand so don't know if they offer a 240 VAC 30 amp comparable version. If so and you believe this product meets your needs for sure pursue this route. With respect to the dual pole relays they can come as DC or AC relays. In this case you only have one choice which is AC Relays because the Insteon Micro relay only controls AC power. So essentially you would wire the Insteon Micro Relay to control the 240 dual pole relays which in turn supplies power to the HWT. Off the top of my head Stu referenced I believe a ELK relay module but I am unsure.

Paul, What exactly did you get with their bus system? I also agree pull more wires for future proofing because the cost wont change besides the wire. Trying to pull new wires after a house is built is simply a bear and you don't want to be doing that a year down the line. I would also pull a CAT5e / CAT6 to the location for future considerations.

Go to the SH forum and search for the 240 load controller. The exact model and devices are discussed there. Let us know what you ultimately decide to do and implement as I am sure the information and option will help someone else down the line. [emoji6] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

My humble apologies in using so many abbreviations and not clarifying. NOS is (New Old Stock) that has been sitting on someone's shelf unsold for a period of time. N.O. is (Normally Open) when no power is applied to the device at rest. Meaning power must be present to close the relays. N.C. is (Normally Closed) when no power is applied when the device is at rest. Meaning 120 VAC power must be applied to open the relays. I honestly can not advise you to go either way with the Insteon 240 load controller as I too have not installed it. So have no real reference as to its long term reliability / durability. If you're in doubt and need a robust method that is guaranteed to work with your Insteon network I would suggest going the route with a 3rd party dual pole 240 VAC relays in concert with the Insteon Micro relay device as the brains and controller.

This is one of the NOS units and based on a quick check its one of the latest hardware builds they make. This is a image of me changing the position of the relays to the desired operations. One of the failure modes was component burn out. In this photo you can see I *Air Gapped* the resistor to ensure it wasn't touching any other components. Prior to me moving and adjusting it all of the caps were touching one another. Not good for high heat dissipation devices such as these. Once again this massive resistor was pressed against this capacitor. This is probably one of the reasons for the click of death because as the cap dried out it started to drop voltage etc. Planning ahead I have several higher quality relays on hand and might swap one of the units with the better relays.

You and I think alike! This is why I configured mine to N.C. operation. So it requires power to open / break the connect. For a HWT I really can not understand why anyone would go the other route! But to your question my understanding is with the click of death it doesn't matter which relay you have because the stupid thing continues to cycle open / close none stop! [emoji35] This is why I waited the last five years until buying this device. Too many bugs and reliability issues but the latest hardware rev may have resolved these aging issues. I may still pursue the micro relay option and place it in the same work box should this 240 controller not operate as expected. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

If you're looking at the Insteon method I am hesitant to recommend the 240 controller. As it has historically proven to fail either from the click of death or simply die outright. Even though I purchased two NOS units with some of the latest hardware upgrades. I have not installed the two units due to competing projects. It should be noted for what ever reason the N.O vs N.C unit seems to be updated. Both are identical in hardware just a simple change in relay pin configuration from one to the other. Some have suggested (Stu) a similar device can be built using the 3rd party high current relays in concert with a Insteon micro relay. I almost went this route last year but couldn't pass the 240 Insteon controller set because it was only $45.XX each! [emoji4][emoji5]️ UDI has been tight lipped about their relay system which you can read about in the announcement page. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

OMFG what happen to my reply? [emoji35] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

For the diagnostic & configuration tool what do they do exactly? I believe when I first looked at similar units the diagnostic simply allowed some kind of health check. One was like check the filter which seems pretty basic, no? Another system did a POST of sorts where it measures that all key board, motors, pump, etc were within voltage, RPM, temperature specs. That would appeal to me more. But find the reality is the more electronics in the system the more failure points and potential costs down the line. I've made it my mantra in 2015 to find the most advanced, robust, and efficient devices which are as dumb as possible in terms of how they are made and designed for long term use. Seen too many situations where homes are unusable due to over complexity in their endeavor to automate all. [emoji55] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Have you completed the 4 tap (beacon) test? Which confirms bridging / coupling of your Insteon network outlined in the PLM users guide? [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I think before you get too far ahead with the whole TSTAT. You really should engage the HVAC installer and confirm you haven't locked yourself into a proprietary system. Many of the Crane, Lennox, Carrier, York systems depending on model of AC use a bus system. Ask them before you waste anymore time in this endeavor. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Off the top of my head there are three or four possible reasons for a fast blink. 1. Low battery 2. Bad COM's / not in RF range / Coupled 3. Bad Ack 4. Remote update Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Temperature, energy, water, people. [emoji6] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Apologies, SEG is (Smart Energy Group). This free site allows anyone to push their energy data to their cloud service to track and aggregate it and have them reflected in many charts, graphs, tiles. I've used the SEG for years to chart and host my energy data from my Dash Box (DB) & Green Eye Monitor (GEM). My intention is to use the ISY Series Controller to push my Autelis Bridge 1 wire temperature data to the SEG Service. This will allow me to graph, chart, and see trends for the 64 temperature sensors. I hope that clarifies what SEG is: http://smartenergygroups.com

I honestly didn't even consider programs when I purchased the ISY Series Controller. All I wanted was having the ability to receive e-mails something turned on/off! That obviously went side ways fast . . . As indicated above if you are monitoring environmental's such as energy, temperature, water. Repetitive programs will be seen and deployed. When I see someone who offers a *Lean & Mean* program that accomplishes the same end goal I jump all over that like a rabid dog! But the reality is some things require a lot of programs / variables to accomplish the end goal. Hence why we are all biting at the bits for 5.XX to be released! I know UDI has worked for a long time to get this next generation of firmware to the general public. My hopes is that it will help lots of us in stream lining our programs and also enhance the network capability of the controller to push data to cloud hosted sites. I for one am looking forward to having the ability to push my 1 wire temperature sensor data to SEG!

Sometimes its like being a postman. Threw snow, sleet, rain, the Insteon battery replacement must go threw! When its not light snow its -50 wind chill which at this point in time we all shrug off and call it *light breeze* Either have I . . . You're getting pretty close! But, no cigar there folks . . .

If this is for outdoor use and will be subject to cold weather than I highly suggest the use of Lithium batteries. If this is for an area where its really inaccessible than I would highly suggest you purchase the 9 volt power adaptor so battery changes will not be in your future. Nothing is worse than to be climbing up a ladder when its -45'C, wind howling, in the dead of night.