Teken

I'm sorry but I had to read this like ten times and it didn't make any sense to me. 1. If you turn the fan at the (switch) does it turn on & off, Yes / No? 2. If you turn the fan from the Admin Console (ISY) does it turn on & off, Yes / No? 3. When the the exhaust fan is not on is the Micro Relay LED always lit? Yes / No? 4. Which sense wire have you used to connect to the exhaust fan? 5. Can you provide the make and model of the exhaust fan for our review. 6. Have you hard reset the Micro Relay? If not please do so and report success / failure.

I don't pretend to know how hot it gets in Florida but have to guess its hotter than where I live in the North Pole. But, as you can see in the summer even in my area the attic space gets extremely hot! This is what one hot August day looked like up there: 52.26'C / 126.07'F This is what it looks like in the dead of winter up there before the wind chill.

If these devices are really up in the attic don't expect any long term service out of them. I would highly suggest you move the PLM into a conditioned space because the capacitors in that unit will dry out and cause untold grief! Any electronic exposed to extreme heat such as an attic will not live very long.

70 years old? [emoji47][emoji50] It's safe to say you're the shining example of how learning is never ending! I salute you and look forward to breaking 70 when it comes upon me! [emoji4][emoji5]️ Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

What, use magic [emoji45][emoji5]️

Can you expand on that line of thought? Normally once I have set it up there isn't any regular house cleaning associated with the programs. If you're speaking about how I manage the naming convention to keep it visually trackable. I first ensure any Integer variable is listed as i.what ever, State variables are listed a s.what ever. From there program folders in my use case is based on devices in the network. Such as Insteon, Autelis, GEM, Dash Box, etc Some programs are in obvious folders because they just make sense to me at least such as: e-mail alerts, timers, schedules, HVAC, Temperature, etc. Following a naming convention and basic schema is important visually because at first glance it should just make sense to you. While others I know use some kind of magic hap hazard approach of what ever came in their head!

Thanks for taking the time to let us all know what possible features and enhancements comes with the premium bus protocols etc. I agree some aspects perhaps in the advanced section may never really be used or realized by the end user. But, some others offer tremendous insight and operations of the HVAC system. I know most of us fall into the 2% of the general public who really want to know. Because the reality is 99% of the general public just want it to operate and don't really care how it does it. So long as the house is hot / cool no one really cares in the big picture. For some of us we like to tinker and be a little more interactive with our sub systems. Perhaps its because we have been limited our entire life in different areas who knows! But, I must affirm my views again sometimes things should just be simple and rock solid. The countless millions of homes impacted by a slight surge / spike that takes out a AC / Furnace, HWT, etc. In my mind is asinine and absolutely unacceptable on any level. Our reliance on making everything so digital with out any for thought about long term service life and reliability is truly astounding on ever level. In 2015 with proven manufacturing techniques and processes in place there is no reason something can't operate and last forever. In my real world definition *Forever* is 25 years. If a product makes it to 10 years I will give them a pass. If they can't even make 5 years its a POS in my view and books. The reality is the general public has forced and made every vendor to produce on the lowest dollar and hence why cheap parts rated to last one year is prevalent. This is why as high tech as I am in my life, home, and environment. I always balance that high tech with dumb! If I find something that simply just operates and is low on energy, offers features, and has possible expandability and operates in the North Pole weather. I buy 2-3-4 of them . . . I believe what shocks a lot of folks who engage me directly about certain aspects of my home and its HVAC or other electrical components. They are shocked to find out some systems are not automated or tied to any HA systems. This is because in my eyes too much potential for failure and opportunity for security breach. Never mind the predictable costs down the road to replace such complex components.

I would just take a small lamp or night light and try. I hope this works out and keep us all in the loop!

My thoughts are (speaking aloud) is if you attach something to this STB while its in the off position. Any auxiliary device would also be powered off whether it be USB / Switched AC outlet. In the powered on position I would have to assume it would start to power those Aux ports, no? This would allow you to use those Aux devices (you choose) that would allow the Synchrolink to detect a larger spread in actual power of on/off. I am sorry if I am unclear because I am trying to find the exact words to describe this.

I guess in your use case just knowing the cycle is completed is fine. For me I wanted to know when it turned on and the power level. Coupled with the maximum / minimum power load and operational run time of the appliance. The Synchrolinc wasn't able to accomplish those goals. Hence why I went the full on energy monitoring route.

I am assuming the different cycles are giving you grief to calibrate to the washer? This is the primary reason I abandoned this effort because there was no *consistent* and reliable method to detect On, Cycle, Off modes. I have no issue doing it now via the GEM Energy Monitor and ISY programs. I haven't looked back since . . .

Hello Simon, I have been known to wonder the forums looking for trouble this is true! Could I perhaps offer another (possible) alternative? Does this device have any extra outlets or USB ports? I ask because often times when a device is in standby / off these ports or outlets are powered down. This might allow you to distinguish the actual on / off via the synchrolink. Also, if this is device is network enabled and does in fact can be pinged may I suggest a web enabled power switch? We use these sorts of devices all over the world to remotely power down, cycle, and activate devices. One of the key features is a *ping alive* where you set parameters that suite your needs. Should the device not reply back based on your user settings the remote switch will cycle the power. I thought I would offer these two suggestions in case they are something you had not considered.

This was the item I listed in the first link I believe also.

Hello Simon, I believe you're correct the difference is too small for the Syncrolinc to activate. But, I am a little taken aback when you indicate this device is off it still consumes almost the same power??? If so throw it out the window because nothing like that should consume 99% of the same energy while powered off even if its standby energy.

Here is the thread where a few people offered some ideas and devices to accomplish the end goal: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13299&SearchTerms=240,load,controller Near the bottom of this thread mwester offers a link and his comments: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11135&SearchTerms=240,load,controller This is the route I shall follow moving forward if the load controller does not operate as expected.

I am not familiar with EZ brand so don't know if they offer a 240 VAC 30 amp comparable version. If so and you believe this product meets your needs for sure pursue this route. With respect to the dual pole relays they can come as DC or AC relays. In this case you only have one choice which is AC Relays because the Insteon Micro relay only controls AC power. So essentially you would wire the Insteon Micro Relay to control the 240 dual pole relays which in turn supplies power to the HWT. Off the top of my head Stu referenced I believe a ELK relay module but I am unsure.

Paul, What exactly did you get with their bus system? I also agree pull more wires for future proofing because the cost wont change besides the wire. Trying to pull new wires after a house is built is simply a bear and you don't want to be doing that a year down the line. I would also pull a CAT5e / CAT6 to the location for future considerations.

Go to the SH forum and search for the 240 load controller. The exact model and devices are discussed there. Let us know what you ultimately decide to do and implement as I am sure the information and option will help someone else down the line. [emoji6] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

My humble apologies in using so many abbreviations and not clarifying. NOS is (New Old Stock) that has been sitting on someone's shelf unsold for a period of time. N.O. is (Normally Open) when no power is applied to the device at rest. Meaning power must be present to close the relays. N.C. is (Normally Closed) when no power is applied when the device is at rest. Meaning 120 VAC power must be applied to open the relays. I honestly can not advise you to go either way with the Insteon 240 load controller as I too have not installed it. So have no real reference as to its long term reliability / durability. If you're in doubt and need a robust method that is guaranteed to work with your Insteon network I would suggest going the route with a 3rd party dual pole 240 VAC relays in concert with the Insteon Micro relay device as the brains and controller.

This is one of the NOS units and based on a quick check its one of the latest hardware builds they make. This is a image of me changing the position of the relays to the desired operations. One of the failure modes was component burn out. In this photo you can see I *Air Gapped* the resistor to ensure it wasn't touching any other components. Prior to me moving and adjusting it all of the caps were touching one another. Not good for high heat dissipation devices such as these. Once again this massive resistor was pressed against this capacitor. This is probably one of the reasons for the click of death because as the cap dried out it started to drop voltage etc. Planning ahead I have several higher quality relays on hand and might swap one of the units with the better relays.

You and I think alike! This is why I configured mine to N.C. operation. So it requires power to open / break the connect. For a HWT I really can not understand why anyone would go the other route! But to your question my understanding is with the click of death it doesn't matter which relay you have because the stupid thing continues to cycle open / close none stop! [emoji35] This is why I waited the last five years until buying this device. Too many bugs and reliability issues but the latest hardware rev may have resolved these aging issues. I may still pursue the micro relay option and place it in the same work box should this 240 controller not operate as expected. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

If you're looking at the Insteon method I am hesitant to recommend the 240 controller. As it has historically proven to fail either from the click of death or simply die outright. Even though I purchased two NOS units with some of the latest hardware upgrades. I have not installed the two units due to competing projects. It should be noted for what ever reason the N.O vs N.C unit seems to be updated. Both are identical in hardware just a simple change in relay pin configuration from one to the other. Some have suggested (Stu) a similar device can be built using the 3rd party high current relays in concert with a Insteon micro relay. I almost went this route last year but couldn't pass the 240 Insteon controller set because it was only $45.XX each! [emoji4][emoji5]️ UDI has been tight lipped about their relay system which you can read about in the announcement page. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

OMFG what happen to my reply? [emoji35] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

For the diagnostic & configuration tool what do they do exactly? I believe when I first looked at similar units the diagnostic simply allowed some kind of health check. One was like check the filter which seems pretty basic, no? Another system did a POST of sorts where it measures that all key board, motors, pump, etc were within voltage, RPM, temperature specs. That would appeal to me more. But find the reality is the more electronics in the system the more failure points and potential costs down the line. I've made it my mantra in 2015 to find the most advanced, robust, and efficient devices which are as dumb as possible in terms of how they are made and designed for long term use. Seen too many situations where homes are unusable due to over complexity in their endeavor to automate all. [emoji55] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Have you completed the 4 tap (beacon) test? Which confirms bridging / coupling of your Insteon network outlined in the PLM users guide? [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent