Teken

No where did I read you followed the Wiki for replacing the PLM besides hard resetting the unit itself.

Yeah, I looked for about 45 minutes but could not reference the link. Its probably been removed since the whole SH revamp of their site. Lots of dead and invalid links now. Back in the day each KPL clear order came out with a template inside.

Sure, here you go: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401clb-6-or-8-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-clear.html There is another one with just dotted lines but I am trying to find it.

Just in case those who don't know SH has a template which has the correct size for the chicklets on their sales site.

Mike, In reality, I am just trying to hold myself back in doing the same thing! Ha! I could see myself spending gobs of time trying to get that perfect icon to match a theme or look. Keep going as I am sure it will inspire more people to offer other variations.

Mike, That would be really hard to get used to seeing. I dunno, maybe I am more conservative than the rest of you. I believe if the icons had the same format I guess it visually would look more appealing. I am unsure what the *bubble art* that people use for some of their icon's like Smartlabs does in their Apps. But, I think that is something that needs to be considered when trying out visual themes for use. The best part of these clear covers is you can keep at it until you find something that fits your environment and aesthetic needs.

iSheep, bah bah bah! [emoji5]️[emoji12] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about the random option? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hope this gives you a little more insight as the image was removed from their site. These 3 parameters are more in plain English than what is indicated I believe else where. Let me know if you need more information. - Trigger Threshold is in Watts, from (0 Watts) to (1800 Watts). - Hold off is in approx 0.067 second increments, from (0 seconds) to (approx 17 seconds). Messages will transmit immediately once the holdoff time has passed. - Hysteresis is in Watts, from (0 Watts) to (255 Watts). This is the change that must occur before checking to trigger SyncroLinc.

Yeah, I saw that a few weeks ago and just had to shake my head. I can tell you for a fact they sold more at the $20.XX price point in one month than at that stupid and insane $49.XX!

I think if you consider the ROI as the main factor lots of this will probably not pay off in any meaningful time frame. Speaking solely for myself I researched and purchased the best appliances I could afford in the budget I set forth. Obviously long term savings in terms of energy costs were the over all goal. But, if someone says to me *You know its going to take 25 years for you to see the ROI* people are missing the key driver of doing this. I know lots of people who consume 5-10 times more electricity just from their fridge when compared to mine. Are the two units comparable in size, features, age, no. But the reality is with the new Energy Star ratings which have been modified for 2015. If you purchase said appliance with the new 2015 Energy Star rating it will not only meet this rating. More than likely it will exceed the rating and be lower in energy consumption. This is exactly how my fridge worked out when compared to the yellow placard.

I would probably see if you could take a small thin piece of wire and push it through a vent and see if it comes out the back or bottom of the unit as a quick test. Drilling holes into a fridge / freezer is a recipe for disaster. Don't even think about cutting the door gasket either!

Hello Alan, You can find this awesome lock at your local Ikea store in the baby section. I don't follow what you mean about marketing BS? Are you suggesting a brand new Energy Star rated appliance consumes the same amount of electricity as a 16 year old fridge / freezer??

I would add to the excellent information from those above the following: 1. Measure and adjust the freezer / cooler compartment with a calibrated NSF thermometer. The cooler area should be in the range of 34-40'F, freezer should be no colder than 0'F. 2. Ensure all coils and vents are free of debris and fuzz build up. 3. Remove all contents from the freezer / cooler area and ensure the air flow vents are clean and unobstructed. 4. Ensure the unit has the proper air ventilation on all three sides. 5. Check all gaskets and seals to ensure the door closes tight. Some use magnet seals while other simply have friction fit seals. Always pull the gasket to ensure they are not cracked inside the channels. If you are like me where kids are always going into the freezer and not closing the door properly and the door is allowed to creep open. These great locks work fantastic in keeping it closed and locked in place. This is what happens when any of the situation happens. Hot food inserted into cooler before its properly cooled off, door ajar, leaking gasket, blocked air way, clogged vents and intake grills, evap coils / condensors damaged or dirty. You can see my fridge was running none stop and then went into defrost mode then ran for ever again. This is what a normal day looks like when things are properly set and running fine. This is one of many ways I know if the appliances in my home are running fine and for how long. There is no guessing as to *IF* anything is running too long, too short, or consuming too much power. This is a *Day Compare* of the fridge running. As you can see the (frequency) of the unit running and the duration of such. My fridge goes into defrost mode every three days and does so one time and operates in this mode for about 18 minutes. Lots of people like to guess about how much an appliance costs them or if its Energy Star rated. I don't guess I know what every device in my home consumes and have fine tuned each device to operate efficiently. This is just one day as you can see on this day the fridge consumed 0.86 KWH or $0.06266 which was 4.9% of my daily energy consumption. Having the ability to watch the inrush current or start up of a device is imperative. This will let you know how to manage your power distribution and build for it. This assumes you have a off grid system or where you have a small back up generator. This lets you know if the back up power is sufficient to power this high draw items like motors, pumps, compressors, etc. As can be seen when the fridge first kicks in its consumes a whopping 300+ watts and more than 16 amps, until it settles down.

Correct me if I am wrong but that TSTAT has no method to measure negative values? I know we discussed this in another thread but for the long term you should be considering a 1 wire solution. The time and invested dollars simply just makes sense from a long term use case. Anything else that is going to be kludged together will result in lots of fine tuning, errors, and endless trials. Everything you have done or have considered I went down that road. The only difference is that I took to heart all of the information I found in this forum and others and decided not to use Insteon for such critical environmental monitoring tasks. It goes with out saying this is well outside of the range the Smartlabs engineers even considered.

I would also suggest you take a look at how the HL2 software indicates how these settings are used. A picture is worth a thousand words! Look at the picture in the SH advert that is very helpful.

Is this thread not being monitored? Has this project been shelved? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recall there is an adjustment on the generator which allows the RPM's to be fined tuned. Perhaps engage Generac tech support and inquire what kind of fine tuning can be made on the unit. Also, on a off chance would it be possible for you to switch out one of the Insteon switches back to a normal switch? I would like to know if you observe the same behavior on the same set of lights. Watch carefully for pulsing (dim / bright) while on the geny.

Yes, for the most part this is true for 90% of the folks using Insteon. There have been a few people using a Filter Linc and a UPS to force the PLM to send via RF only. This was done because they could not figure out why Insteon COM's were so poor. When they did this kludge their Insteon network became more stable and reliable. I see that as a good solution for this specific instance. But, in no way is better than trying to figure out what are the noise makers / signal suckers. Using the above method is a band aid and assumes the RF prorogation will be strong enough over the long term. As an aside this is why we are seeing *new* Insteon devices with increased RF output. They have learnt the original design was too low and have since increased the output for the latest hardware: HUB II, Dual Outlet Linc, Range Extender, etc. I expect to see the next rounds of Insteon devices to do the same because it only makes sense and will finally solve one of two RF issues I've had and others as well. The other issue they need to address is to move the RF antenna on all the switches to the front. They are currently in the back of the housing and if you're using a metal JBOX the RF signal is reduced up to 80%.

He indicated above that the ISY and network are on a dedicated UPS. But, no mention of the PLM being on it so have to gather its on the mains. Afterwards the generator kicks in and the PLM is on the back up power.

Yes, I am not too surprised by your reply as to the load. Back in the day when everyone was using incandescent bulbs this sort of *visual* indicator would be hard to see as the bulb would simply go brighter / dimmer with voltage rise / fall. With LED bulbs by their vary nature they are able to turn on / off very quickly even if this action is mimic from a standby generator. This sort of flicker, strobing, or pulsing can vary with different bulbs brands and makers. This variance can be seen even with in the same model bulb. This is why I always buy a few different brands and test them out to see how they operate with various switches and power events. Afterwards, I buy the same bulbs in bulk and hope they are using all the same spec tolerant parts with in. I've had great success with one brand but the name escapes me now.

What kind of loads are in the switches: CFL, LED, Halogen, Florescent, Incandescent

To be more specific are you indicating the lights *flicker* or actually turn on / off?

How old are some of the Insteon devices in your home? I ask because several updates in the power supply and how its regulated has changed in various iterations of KPL, Switches, etc. Older KPL would pulse on / off in a continuous cycle for about 10-30 seconds when mains power was brought back on line.

Yes, we all saw this when some hick town transfer station in the USA did not fail over correctly. This impacted all of Ontario, NYC, and some other states quite a few years ago. I honestly thought that event was another 9-11 just ramping up! That event was quite a eye opener for many in the electrical distribution system. So many people thought all of the fail over systems were fully operational and at the ready. The reality is there were lots of nodes in the power distribution that were super aged, not ready, tested, or even verified to come on line when there was a loss of power to the grid. Lots of money and tech was thrown in to ensure this sort (cascading) problem doesn't happen again. But, as you clearly noted our reliance on so much electronics are going to be impacted by a EMP or high voltage event that won't preclude such an event from happening again.