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Everything posted by Teken
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I think before you get too far ahead with the whole TSTAT. You really should engage the HVAC installer and confirm you haven't locked yourself into a proprietary system. Many of the Crane, Lennox, Carrier, York systems depending on model of AC use a bus system. Ask them before you waste anymore time in this endeavor. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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Off the top of my head there are three or four possible reasons for a fast blink. 1. Low battery 2. Bad COM's / not in RF range / Coupled 3. Bad Ack 4. Remote update Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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Temperature, energy, water, people. [emoji6] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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Apologies, SEG is (Smart Energy Group). This free site allows anyone to push their energy data to their cloud service to track and aggregate it and have them reflected in many charts, graphs, tiles. I've used the SEG for years to chart and host my energy data from my Dash Box (DB) & Green Eye Monitor (GEM). My intention is to use the ISY Series Controller to push my Autelis Bridge 1 wire temperature data to the SEG Service. This will allow me to graph, chart, and see trends for the 64 temperature sensors. I hope that clarifies what SEG is: http://smartenergygroups.com
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I honestly didn't even consider programs when I purchased the ISY Series Controller. All I wanted was having the ability to receive e-mails something turned on/off! That obviously went side ways fast . . . As indicated above if you are monitoring environmental's such as energy, temperature, water. Repetitive programs will be seen and deployed. When I see someone who offers a *Lean & Mean* program that accomplishes the same end goal I jump all over that like a rabid dog! But the reality is some things require a lot of programs / variables to accomplish the end goal. Hence why we are all biting at the bits for 5.XX to be released! I know UDI has worked for a long time to get this next generation of firmware to the general public. My hopes is that it will help lots of us in stream lining our programs and also enhance the network capability of the controller to push data to cloud hosted sites. I for one am looking forward to having the ability to push my 1 wire temperature sensor data to SEG!
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Sometimes its like being a postman. Threw snow, sleet, rain, the Insteon battery replacement must go threw! When its not light snow its -50 wind chill which at this point in time we all shrug off and call it *light breeze* Either have I . . . You're getting pretty close! But, no cigar there folks . . .
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If this is for outdoor use and will be subject to cold weather than I highly suggest the use of Lithium batteries. If this is for an area where its really inaccessible than I would highly suggest you purchase the 9 volt power adaptor so battery changes will not be in your future. Nothing is worse than to be climbing up a ladder when its -45'C, wind howling, in the dead of night.
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I believe it really comes down to what is in your system and how you expect it to operate. Some have the controller simply turn things on and off. Some have it turn devices in the home based on duration or time of day. The above scenario I would gather encompasses about 70% of the ISY user base. Then you have those who have environmental devices and they wish to track its energy consumption, duration, and cycle time. I fall under this category and because I do must have repetitive programs / variables that allow me to track those areas. The next is of course those who use the network module to activate or react to other network related devices or to push data to cloud hosted services. Based on a few peoples replies that is another place where high usage can come into play. I agree with you if I could make something lean and mean and small in program size. I always try that method first opposed to using massive line of code to do the same. For me its the KISS principle but the reality is the ISY Series Controller by default requires a certain level of programming if specific wants and needs are to be met. I know there was a user on here that stated he had some insane amount of programs I believe approaching the limits of the ISY Series Controller! Upon reading his reply almost three years ago I had to take pause and think if he was exaggerating or was really at that level. Fast forward three years later I am about half of what he was! Never in my wildest dreams would I have ever thought I would break 12 programs never mind dabble into the use of variables! It really came down to the massive amount of knowledge and help from people like Xathros and his like that pushed me forward in making *real* use of my HA controller. So, I lay complete blame squarely on the feet of our resident Xathros for my massive hoards of programs / variables! At some point in time I hope very much to stream line a few programs and really see what 5.XX has to offer. I truly believe if the new release allows me to push data to other cloud based services in a more streamlined approach via variables. I fully expect to see about 100+ network resources of all kinds.
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Standard derating Derating is the reduction of the maximum capacity (or "load") a dimmer can reliably handle when its side-sections (or "fins") are removed. Dimmers build a lot of heat, so if your going to use more than a single gang box (switch box), you must use a smaller load on the circuit than for which the switch is rated. For example, you have 2 dimmer switches in a 2 gang box. The switches are rated for 750 watts when installed in an individual box, but because of the heat buildup, you may need to derate each switch to 600 watts if installing 2 switches in 1 (2 gang) box.
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Too funny! I thought you would have easily pushed past 500 plus programs etc. [emoji5]️ Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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Smartlabs recommends a Range Extender for every 2000 square feet. This is why coupling / bridging must be confirmed for all floors, rooms, zones. Do not rely on the fact you have dual band devices installed in the walls if the JBOX is metal. This will dramatically reduce the RF range from none to several feet. Programs by default require more time when compared to linked scenes. Best practice is to always use scenes for all primary use. This ensures if the controller is down the base system will always operate. NOTE: All the coupling in the world will not resolve a noise issue in the network. It's imperative you install the correct loads while following the maximum power output of each Insteon device. Always follow the derating of side by side dimmers etc. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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Agreed install and load in use is important to know and follow. Lots of folks are still under the impression all LEDs are dimmable they are not. One of the worst habits I have seen are those who insist upon using the wire nut / marrette to secure the wire bundle! No . . . You must use linesman pliers and secure the bundle then screw on the marrette! Once screwed on pull and yank on it to ensure its properly seated and secured.
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That made me laugh! On the technical side the newer unit offers many new firmware features not seen before on older units. - Ability to turn on/off RF or Powerline - Smart Hops - Adjustable LED brightness / Turn off LED - Blink on error - Send message cleanup - Independent load sense
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Oh something stupid like 329 Integers Variables, 146 State Variables, and just under 400 programs. So I don't know if that is a lot or a little but its still growing!
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The three major things for any Insteon network is (confirmed) proper coupling / bridging outlined in the users manual. The 2413S PLM Users guide explains the 4 tap beacon test and what to expect. Next, is to identify all noise makers / signal suckers in the home and filter them or replace them. Do not plug the PLM on a circuit that is loaded with electronics such as computers, cell chargers, UPS, filtered surge strips. Last, is to ensure proper RF coverage either using the new Range Extenders or Lamp Linc / On-Off Relay. Since the Lamp Linc / On-Off Relay only loses 50 feet of RF to the RE. Having dual use is always great because the RE can not be re-purposed for anything else besides coupling and transceiving from RF to Power line. If you're going to have a wall wart might as well have a dual purpose one! Lots of folks like to place the PLM / ISY as close to the electrical panel as possible for the best power line distribution. I believe given the vast amount of dual band devices being offered by Smartlabs this requirement isn't so important anymore. No matter what you do best practices of any new install is to hard reset all devices prior to enrolling them to the network. There have been countless stories of ghost issues unexplained. Hard resetting the device will restore the unit to a factory state and remove any test links or programming from the production line.
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Light dims are excellent solution but for those with very little budget you can certainly use the black sharpie. If done correctly it can tame the glare quite a bit so give it a try.
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No kidding, talk about scamming the customer. The Seco version has been used in almost every major application from thousands of vendors around the world. Its proven, reliable, and flexible for the end users needs why mess with something good that just works??
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To your original question are the newer KPL's worse than years past? I would have to gather the hardware has advanced and gotten better in a few areas. I do have to temper that reply with the fact Smartlabs has removed and deprecated a few features or options once available to the general public. Along with the fact the KPL Relay continues to make that annoying buzz! [emoji35] Outside of those two issues my expectation is any new KPL should serve their master for many years to come. Knock on wood! [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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I can tell you from a technical and user experience the new dual band, dual outlet is miles ahead in terms of quality and performance when compared to the single band, single outlet linc. I realize you only need one controlled outlet but the reality is the single outlet linc was a piece of crap! You won't have any regrets besides a lighter wallet from buying one. Trust me, the new one is very good and operates like a champ.
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I have several generations of KPL from dimmers to relays and none of them have ever failed. I had received a used KPL in a bulk auction many years ago and the load portion did not operate. That KPL was simply re-purposed for status alert duties. Without knowing all of the intimate details of the environment, load, electrical health. Its hard to say what has caused some of the negative feed back with respect to the KPL's. I don't know if the reviews are all pertaining to the relay vs dimmer units. But I can safely tell you that after living in twelve different states America has some of the crappiest power I have ever had to endure. It doesn't take away from the fact earlier KPL / Switch Lincs in themselves had terrible PSU with in either. Just that many places in the United States have extremely dirty power. This doesn't even address the surge loads with in peoples houses which often times causes more long term damages to ones electronics. I've been a long time (fanatic) in monitoring, measuring, and capturing power related issues from work and at home. Its fair to say with out this critical data point lots of this is pure guessing on most peoples part. That's my $0.00000000000000001
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Not sure if this feed back is worth any value but typically a scene is used for the GDO in concert with a KPL. As you're fully aware the majority use it for both status and control. Since it seems you won't have this requirement then I am not sure what value there would be in using a scene? Unless you plan on linking the sensor from the I/O Linc to some other Insteon enabled device like a LED, Lamp Linc, etc. I personally would not count on a software widget to alert me of a On/Off state for the largest door in my home. I would opt to have a hard linked KPL etc for that status and control.
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Hello Kush, Is it safe to say none of the I/O lincs are programmed with the *Trigger Reverse* option? Can you please verify and post up a screen capture for each I/O linc. My expectation is (even if) the ISY was rebooted it would have sent a confirmation the door was closed not open. This is how I have my system set using Prowl and e-mail to ensure if there is a system issue I always know the last known (good) state. One thing to try and confirm is if perhaps the sensor that gave the bad reading could have (momentarily) tripped due to a large gust of wind. This is something I have tested in my own system to see how much magnetic gap would cause the system to trip. To date I have confirmed it would take more than half an inch of travel before the door would show a open / ajar state. That sort of wind condition is not typical in my area so depending upon how your sensor is mounted this could impact you more or less. For your reference my sensor is mounted at the top of the door and the actual sensor just uses gravity to fall into place. Meaning even if the wind blew the door (buffeted) the sensor would move in unison with the door moving back and forth. This is why I mounted my sensor this way because it provided the most robust method of monitoring opposed to other means.
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I/O Lincs are single band only. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
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At the rate we are giving up our civil liberties. Canada will very much be a Nazi State! [emoji16][emoji35] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent