Teken

No, incandescent only. Your results will very with the halogen. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

A loose ground would not cause lights to go bright or dim. This is normally indicative of a loose neutral or where the transformer at the taps are faulty. This can also happen when the power coming down the line is drifting from the POCO. The Ditek device would not protect you from this situation as you have seen first hand. I am unsure how much your home insurance is and don't want to scare you but you really need to take a few moments after this is all fixed. Go through every electrical device in your home starting with the large appliances like stove, fridge, dishwasher, dryer, clothes washer, HVAC, etc. When these conditions are present and persistent they will shorten the life of those electronics or worse case damage them. I would suggest you review all of this and if anything is damaged on that level please do engage the insurance company. Because you're not prepared to replace all of the above with out taking a huge hit in your savings. Yes, this is correct. But, keep in mind as indicated above no surge device (except for two models I know of and use) will protect against in a *RISE* in voltage. I am not talking about where its like 10,000 volt surge. This is where the voltage *RISES* past 150 volts, most electronics are built and designed to sustain a 10-20% tolerance from 100 - 130 VAC. When you go past 130 VAC this it will create a crispy cream situation. Also, note that a low voltage condition (below 100 VAC) will cause a rise in current being drawn from a electronic device, unless its designed to avoid a sag, most aren't.

Pictures my friend, pictures . . .

Over the years I have read several threads where a perfectly added Insteon device operated just fine since install. Later on said device, stopped operating as expected either directly, or via programs or scenes. A device restore was required. Other times a new device is (just) added with out issue but upon making a program / scene. These applications fail to operate as expected and errors are seen. All of us go through the process to determine if this is a COM issue, whether it be coupling / bridging, or noise makers / signal suckers on the line. In some of these cases none of the above is the culprit and a simple *restore device* has in fact resolved the issue?? So this discussion surrounds what does the restore device actually do from a technical stand point? The second question comes to how can a perfectly added device which operates completely via direct commands being turned on / off, great COM's, no noise, still not operate a scene / program? My WAG is several things are in play here and this is why I always suggest this and apply it from the on set. 1. Hard Reset / Factory Default: Performing this step will ensure any possible factory testing, settings are removed and brings the device back to a default state. This may be why a device is added fine but internally there is a conflict which is unknown until programs / scenes are enabled. 2. Enrollment: I have seen via the UI that sometimes even though the system indicates a device is added fine. In reality it has not sometimes pop up messages appear which typically indicate some kind of COM issue etc. But, its the times where nothing shows up and the device enrolls fine but there is in fact a issue?? From my experience this appears to be a ISY issue in not always displaying or capturing a unknown problem. My suggestion is some kind of lower level add / delete process which I am told does exist but is not deployed for what ever reason. 3. Hardware Conflict: Another reason I have seen this happen is simply due to firmware not being up to date and what ever coding is not in place to make the device work. Other times its a newer device just released and the code simply does not exist to support said device. With this scenario what I find odd is that when you have this situation where its half there and what I considered not fully supported. Using the restore device allows the device to operate in some fashion?? This is something that pains me and makes me shake my head because this is a indicator that using the *Restore Device* has the ability to do something. I guess this is also related to update Insteon Engine where it basically calls out to the device and says *Hey who are you, how do you feel, how many hands and feet do you have, and how should be configured* Then, this tells the ISY to configure the device accordingly and happy times are abound for all. Insight

Look in the little hole on the right there should be a weird looking round IR sensor. Plus when you fire it up and select ABOUT it will confirm what it's supposed to be. NOTE: Even if it's wrong sending in a ticket to UDI with your UUID they can remotely update the (I) to a pro for you. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

You don't need to but its always best practices. I have found doing this one step prior to adding in a new device ultimately saves days of frustration trying to figure out what the hell is going on.

I believe if they are the 6 button style it will replace with fine. As indicated by LeeG there appears to be an issue to doing the same with a dedicated 8 button KPL. I don't have any of those and most of mine were simply converted from 6 to 8 buttons. To this day I fail to understand why they don't have a 8 button KPL relay by default. I ask because depending upon the model year if you had to hard reset the device it would go back to 6 button mode. If the person wasn't on the ball they would notice their programs and buttons didn't operate as before.

The upgrade path would have been through UDI directly. You can see the cost and the models that are available from them and their associated cost for upgrading. Since you purchased this directly from SH you have the option of just returning the item. Then, go back to the UDI sales page and make your purchase from there. The lowest upgrade starts at $99.XX before tax's and shipping of course. I can't say what is all involved to make a *Replace With* but gather this may be a limitation based on the sub cat etc. In my opinion it should make no difference because in the big grand scheme of things the device does the same thing. ie. 6/8 KPL they both dim / relay it makes no difference if its a dual band vs single band. I haven't personally tried to replace a older style Appliance Linc with the newer On / Off Module as I don't have one. But would affirm the same it turns on / off it shouldn't matter if its a single band vs dual band etc. But, hey that is the joy of automation its always a work in progress.

I would humbly suggest you take advantage of the low cost upgrade path from the 99 to the 994. This will address all future devices being supported and also provide you much more features and capabilities as UDI releases them in 5.XX For me we simply added the new devices and didn't bother trying to replace with. It went smoother that way and only took about three hours to get all the gear in place. Considering it was a 5500 square foot house and deploying 70 devices it was quite the feat!

That is an excellent idea for sure. I am however still wondering if there are other factors at play here. As his title state washer / dryer?

I would unplug the repeater and plug the dryer back in and report success / failure. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

+1 I have used Leviton both standard GFCI and their more feature rich self test models without issues. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

If you're using the Mobilinc perhaps this solution will give you a better response: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14730-add-ibeacon-support-to-your-isy/

Yes, I have seen and read that article in the past and it gave a very detailed over view of what it could do and the limitations of such. If someone just wants something to measure and give them a general idea the product works. But, after the novelty wears off and the end user has matured in *wanting* more accurate, granular, and open API interaction. There is none . . . There is no method to expand on the development of the system or to request new features be considered or added. This is a nice toy for the average user but doesn't come even close to the GEM. People would argue hey it only costs $XX.XX when compared to the GEM or any other serious data logger. My reply is always this: Do you want accurate, consistent, reliable, and forward thinking development which is always ongoing? Or do you want something that's in the house just for the novelty which honestly will fall to the way side with in six months. This device will never be seen in any commercial or professional application, ever. You have to ask yourself why that is and how come more people don't use it as such? The Brultech GEM is used in all facets of commercial single phase and three phase. Going off the top of my head as I recall this device has no method to enter any meaningful rates. It can enter whole numbers that's it, not very helpful to most people. It has no method to drill down and see more granular data or hold more than a a few weeks of data and what is there is not very granular. As I recall the solar NET bubble thing always was present which made no sense if you didn't use it?? With the combination of the Dash Box and the GEM / ECM. The Dash Box can use up to 5 decimals for your rate so if its like mine: $0.07356. It can use and track those who have flat rate, ToU, variable rates. The system can show you the percentage of each load when compared to the mains which helps you identify how that loads plays in the overall costs to you. Both the DB / GEM are 3rd party friendly and have open API and does interface with the ISY. The system can be connected via Wi-Fi, Ethernet, Zigbee, RS-232. The end user can record (default) 2 years of granular minute data, and 12 years of hourly data. The system can be expanded to store more information by upgrading the micro SD card. I have mine set up to record 4 years of minute data, which equates to more than 20 plus years of hourly data. I can capture, monitor, replay any second, minute, hour, day, week, month, year of the following: Watts, Current, KWH, Voltage, VA, Temps, Pulse. I have multiple choices of graphs, charts, tiles, to render all of the above data. I can take any of the monitored channels and compare them to others. The system has multiple views to drill into the circuits along with having the ability to actually place a icon to represent the homes circuit. The system can alert the end user if the system is off line and when its back. It has the ability to send the same energy, temp, water, gas, solar, information to any third party hosting site like SEG. The key thing about the Dash Box (DB) is that it interfaces with the ISY. This allows me to create programs to react to my homes electrical, temperature, pulse, states. All of the above can not be done with the device listed above. It was never intended to be 3rd party friendly or be open to the power users like you and I. Its marketed to the dumb, lazy, and those who believe it will bring them some real information, it doesn't. Having said all of this: It does not take away the accomplishment of their software that is able to at least *think* and guess what loads are present and assign them a name / association. That is in itself impressive as hell!

A proven energy monitoring device is made by Brultech which is made in Canada. They offers two separate devices one is the ECM-1240 which can monitor 7 circuits. The other is the Green Eye Monitor (GEM) which can monitor 32 discrete circuits, 8 1 wire temperature sensors, 4 pulse channels to monitor gas or water. Both can be configured to measure NET metering for those using solar, wind, micro hydro. More information can be found at their respective site located here: http://www.brultech.com/ I have a on going installation thread which has tracked my efforts and journey using the above product located here: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=929 I had seen the smappee advert a number of years ago but found what they indicated to be dubious to say the least. They are saying with only one set of CT's they are able to determine what loads are on / off etc. I can tell you that would be quite the feat in engineering if that were true. Essentially they are using the power of software to track, monitor, and define a load. That sound very simple in the software realm but when applied to a real world electrical system that is impossible to do with any level of accuracy. In the years I have reviewed this product I have yet to see any real spec's on this unit. That in it self should worry those who are interested in knowing the real hard data points. I can tell you factually that nothing you buy (consumer grade) that plugs into a outlet will provide you the same level of accuracy, consistency, and reliability of capturing the energy readings in your home. Than a dedicated energy monitor that actually uses CT's clamped to each live circuit in your service panel. None . . .

Turn off the breaker to the two devices. Simple effective and it works. No need to unplug anything. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

So, I have to ask. Does this sort of thing happen often? If so have you ever considered moving the mail box a few feet back? Or attach a large high vis pole so the morons don't plow it over?

Based on internal specs and photo's of the new Range Extenders it appears to be based on the same lamp linc. So get those instead and save some big dollars along the way. The older AP are built and designed on a completely different platform. Having said this the newer Range Extenders indicate a 200 feet line of site via RF. While the lamp linc indicates a 150 foot effective range line of site. The benefit of the lamplinc is the dual use where as the Range Extender does absolutely nothing except couple RF / Power Line.

Here you go Rick: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2663-222-on-off-outlet-white.html This is my review of the product so you know what to expect: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14735-insteon-onoff-outlet-2663-222-review/

If you still have the rear mounting plate thingy you could simply screw it into the mail box no? Worst case you could use the same mounting plate and drill a small hole in it and attach a safety wire to one end and screw it into the mail box.

I think the first thing you need to understand is that lots of answers depend upon how and what device you use and how its configured to operate. If the micro is set to latching it will apply power the entire time it is on. This is great if the device you have knows when to stop and has a limit switch etc. It does not help if it doesn't and will over drive and burn out the motor. Momentary, will apply power only when you click on the button or virtual button for what ever duration its set for in the micro module. This is great for something that doesn't have a limit switch etc. But does not help if the device is not fully extended or retracted. You need to go back to your guy and find out some details about the gear and provide some spec's. Otherwise you will get the kind of replies from Stu who is being literal to your question at hand. LMAO . . .

First confirm proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in the full users manual in the dual band products you own. If that does not pass, correct it till it does. After I can tell you with 100% certainty if you unplug all the electronic devices in the house. Then, plug one of them and watch your COM's. Once you see COM's degrade or drop leave that item unplugged. Continue on this path until every item is back on line this is the only sure way to know. The process only needs to be done once and its painful for a house full of gizmo's. But, rest assured if you do this you will know 100% what it isn't opposed to guessing. A client asked me was this all necessary and needed? My reply to him was, do you like to be happy?

Rick, Good for you, glad it worked out. This pretty much high lights the importance of the plug in dual band devices. It also stresses the point of area coverage and proper coupling / bridging. Smartlabs indicates for every 1000 feet a dual band device should be used. Personally, that is overly optimistic if these devices are hardwired devices. AP / Range Extenders are still king in range and coupling in my experience.

For something like that its pretty decent for general purpose, no? Maybe I am just spoiled now because the 1 wire network renders better than +/- 0.2. It can also be embedded into areas of extreme temperatures and water with out me worrying about it dying or melting / freezing.

What are we talking about in terms of values? Off by 3-5'F degrees / 4-10% humidity? This is more of a data point for me so any info is great to know.