Teken

Isn't that from WWF wrestling a DDT? [emoji4] Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

This may not be the ideal method but in some parts of my home I actually use a Xantrex Pure Sine Wave 12 volt invertor which is powered by a massive LifePo battery bank. You could do the same thing to ensure back up power. Similar devices are offered for back up sump pumps. So perhaps expand on your search for a battery back up system. NOTE: The primary goal for me is to ensure what ever device needs to be powered is. Notification is secondary for me but can be accomplished by using Micro On / Off, I/O Linc, Trigger Linc. Using the above devices in some form may allow you to receive those notifications to the ISY when the system is engaged etc. I have my Flood Stop system which monitors and turns off the water to the Toilets, Sink, Washer, Dish Washer, all connected to a Trigger Linc which then sends the COM's to the ISY. This system is powered by AC / DC to ensure fail over and protection during a power loss event.

I believe the forum has to thank you for taking the time to document and trial this fix. I have surely kept this thread as one of my favorites for future use and possible fix's for others in the same boat. Once again, awesome write up and Merry XMAS!

I had a chuckle when I saw Xathros naming convention. Some of them just hit me as I have seen them before stated in forms etc. DOB: Date of birth [emoji56] DOT: Department of transportation [emoji592] OLD: Just some old guy [emoji12] BLB: Bring Lots oBeer [emoji5]️ SLR: Single Lens Reflector?

Note, this repair only addresses the case where the failure point is the capacitor. It won't help anyone if its any of the IC's or surface mounted resistors which are almost impossible to see the values. Regardless, great write up and follow up.

Hello Oberkc, When you say three character device code can you provide an example?

I don't follow what you expect to happen? If the I/O Linc trips it's going to activate the ELK shut off valve, no? Would the ELK M1 not have a email alert function or if using the ISY plugin send you an email alert? To your original question unless the UPS is a pure sine wave model the zero crossing of the signal may not go through. This doesn't even address the filtering aspect at all. You could piggy back a AP to the I/O Linc to provide RF. But still no guarantee this will work. You would then place the UPS on a filter Linc I am assuming you want an alert to go through all of this? [emoji53][emoji47] Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

Yes, its normal and you will need to add a small load to to keep the LED's off.

Yes, this is what I gathered you were going to say. Its safe to say the earlier designs were not built to be very robust when dealing with electrical surge events. Note a voltage (sag) is actually more harmful to a electronic device as when the voltage goes low, current increases. This increase in current will quickly burn out any sensitive IC's or thin wiring traces etc. Note, as a best practice if I am going to turn off the breaker and there is a large load on the same circuit being restored. I always pull out the air gap first, turn on the breaker, then reset the gap button. I did this to all the old KPL's in the home to ensure nothing would burn up. The newer KPL's appear to be more tolerant with surge / spike issues. I can't say how they operate or would function during a voltage sag event. As it would require a regulated power supply to keep the voltage stable and not impact the device. I am unsure if such a design consideration is in place for Insteon devices to be honest.

To be clear, five of them have failed since the initial purchase in 2011. Or that five KPL's have failed just recently in 2014?

Program requires the ISY to be on line and active. Linked scenes are natively stored in the device and does not require a controller. During a ISY failure nothing would operate as you would expect. Note I am speaking only about device use and not timed events. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

The white wire is the neutral. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

The black is the hot / line. The white is the neutral wire. This assumes it's NOT marked with tape to indicate an alternate use. Stu, I quoted you by accident! [emoji51] Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

I agree with this method above as it keeps traffic in the Inteon network down. I know lots of folks have great success in making things flash etc. But, in my mind this is disaster waiting to happen and impacts reliability as the programs and network expands.

Its safe to say he won't have any 3 / 4 wire in this basement install.

Hello Leslie, Good to hear the POCO is going to help out in this regard as most would tell you to go pound sand or try to prove it was their fault. I would highly suggest you hire a service professional that deals with appliances and request they go over all the major one's to ensure they are working with in fault tolerances. Note, most repairmen are not too smart about a device and simply rely on the fact it runs and operates. ie. Your fridge works and makes all the food nice and cold. Yet you hear a strange hum, or the unit does not shut down as expected. You see the difference? If you ask a tradesmen to see if something works the answer will be yes. If you ask them to confirm all areas of the device are working as stated from the manufacture (voltage, current) draw / load. This requires more diagnostic time and must be done over am extended period of time. Its always good to wait a few weeks to see how things operate because this will give you an idea if its going to give up the ghost. Anything that smells, sounds weird, makes a buzz, hum, or labors to start, or take longer. Let us know how things turn out, be well.

Yes . . . http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14735-insteon-onoff-outlet-2663-222-review/

A switch does not require a neutral a switch simply cuts the power from the supply on / off. A neutral is required for 99% of the Insteon devices because it draws its very small power from this circuit. The two wire Insteon device receives its power from the load. Lets keep this simple if you remove the switch describe the wiring color in the box. Note, if a black wire is marked with tape to (identify) it has been switched to serve another purpose. ie. Neutral / Traveler

No, incandescent only. Your results will very with the halogen. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

A loose ground would not cause lights to go bright or dim. This is normally indicative of a loose neutral or where the transformer at the taps are faulty. This can also happen when the power coming down the line is drifting from the POCO. The Ditek device would not protect you from this situation as you have seen first hand. I am unsure how much your home insurance is and don't want to scare you but you really need to take a few moments after this is all fixed. Go through every electrical device in your home starting with the large appliances like stove, fridge, dishwasher, dryer, clothes washer, HVAC, etc. When these conditions are present and persistent they will shorten the life of those electronics or worse case damage them. I would suggest you review all of this and if anything is damaged on that level please do engage the insurance company. Because you're not prepared to replace all of the above with out taking a huge hit in your savings. Yes, this is correct. But, keep in mind as indicated above no surge device (except for two models I know of and use) will protect against in a *RISE* in voltage. I am not talking about where its like 10,000 volt surge. This is where the voltage *RISES* past 150 volts, most electronics are built and designed to sustain a 10-20% tolerance from 100 - 130 VAC. When you go past 130 VAC this it will create a crispy cream situation. Also, note that a low voltage condition (below 100 VAC) will cause a rise in current being drawn from a electronic device, unless its designed to avoid a sag, most aren't.

Pictures my friend, pictures . . .

Over the years I have read several threads where a perfectly added Insteon device operated just fine since install. Later on said device, stopped operating as expected either directly, or via programs or scenes. A device restore was required. Other times a new device is (just) added with out issue but upon making a program / scene. These applications fail to operate as expected and errors are seen. All of us go through the process to determine if this is a COM issue, whether it be coupling / bridging, or noise makers / signal suckers on the line. In some of these cases none of the above is the culprit and a simple *restore device* has in fact resolved the issue?? So this discussion surrounds what does the restore device actually do from a technical stand point? The second question comes to how can a perfectly added device which operates completely via direct commands being turned on / off, great COM's, no noise, still not operate a scene / program? My WAG is several things are in play here and this is why I always suggest this and apply it from the on set. 1. Hard Reset / Factory Default: Performing this step will ensure any possible factory testing, settings are removed and brings the device back to a default state. This may be why a device is added fine but internally there is a conflict which is unknown until programs / scenes are enabled. 2. Enrollment: I have seen via the UI that sometimes even though the system indicates a device is added fine. In reality it has not sometimes pop up messages appear which typically indicate some kind of COM issue etc. But, its the times where nothing shows up and the device enrolls fine but there is in fact a issue?? From my experience this appears to be a ISY issue in not always displaying or capturing a unknown problem. My suggestion is some kind of lower level add / delete process which I am told does exist but is not deployed for what ever reason. 3. Hardware Conflict: Another reason I have seen this happen is simply due to firmware not being up to date and what ever coding is not in place to make the device work. Other times its a newer device just released and the code simply does not exist to support said device. With this scenario what I find odd is that when you have this situation where its half there and what I considered not fully supported. Using the restore device allows the device to operate in some fashion?? This is something that pains me and makes me shake my head because this is a indicator that using the *Restore Device* has the ability to do something. I guess this is also related to update Insteon Engine where it basically calls out to the device and says *Hey who are you, how do you feel, how many hands and feet do you have, and how should be configured* Then, this tells the ISY to configure the device accordingly and happy times are abound for all. Insight

Look in the little hole on the right there should be a weird looking round IR sensor. Plus when you fire it up and select ABOUT it will confirm what it's supposed to be. NOTE: Even if it's wrong sending in a ticket to UDI with your UUID they can remotely update the (I) to a pro for you. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

You don't need to but its always best practices. I have found doing this one step prior to adding in a new device ultimately saves days of frustration trying to figure out what the hell is going on.

I believe if they are the 6 button style it will replace with fine. As indicated by LeeG there appears to be an issue to doing the same with a dedicated 8 button KPL. I don't have any of those and most of mine were simply converted from 6 to 8 buttons. To this day I fail to understand why they don't have a 8 button KPL relay by default. I ask because depending upon the model year if you had to hard reset the device it would go back to 6 button mode. If the person wasn't on the ball they would notice their programs and buttons didn't operate as before.