Teken

The upgrade path would have been through UDI directly. You can see the cost and the models that are available from them and their associated cost for upgrading. Since you purchased this directly from SH you have the option of just returning the item. Then, go back to the UDI sales page and make your purchase from there. The lowest upgrade starts at $99.XX before tax's and shipping of course. I can't say what is all involved to make a *Replace With* but gather this may be a limitation based on the sub cat etc. In my opinion it should make no difference because in the big grand scheme of things the device does the same thing. ie. 6/8 KPL they both dim / relay it makes no difference if its a dual band vs single band. I haven't personally tried to replace a older style Appliance Linc with the newer On / Off Module as I don't have one. But would affirm the same it turns on / off it shouldn't matter if its a single band vs dual band etc. But, hey that is the joy of automation its always a work in progress.

I would humbly suggest you take advantage of the low cost upgrade path from the 99 to the 994. This will address all future devices being supported and also provide you much more features and capabilities as UDI releases them in 5.XX For me we simply added the new devices and didn't bother trying to replace with. It went smoother that way and only took about three hours to get all the gear in place. Considering it was a 5500 square foot house and deploying 70 devices it was quite the feat!

That is an excellent idea for sure. I am however still wondering if there are other factors at play here. As his title state washer / dryer?

I would unplug the repeater and plug the dryer back in and report success / failure. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

+1 I have used Leviton both standard GFCI and their more feature rich self test models without issues. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

If you're using the Mobilinc perhaps this solution will give you a better response: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14730-add-ibeacon-support-to-your-isy/

Yes, I have seen and read that article in the past and it gave a very detailed over view of what it could do and the limitations of such. If someone just wants something to measure and give them a general idea the product works. But, after the novelty wears off and the end user has matured in *wanting* more accurate, granular, and open API interaction. There is none . . . There is no method to expand on the development of the system or to request new features be considered or added. This is a nice toy for the average user but doesn't come even close to the GEM. People would argue hey it only costs $XX.XX when compared to the GEM or any other serious data logger. My reply is always this: Do you want accurate, consistent, reliable, and forward thinking development which is always ongoing? Or do you want something that's in the house just for the novelty which honestly will fall to the way side with in six months. This device will never be seen in any commercial or professional application, ever. You have to ask yourself why that is and how come more people don't use it as such? The Brultech GEM is used in all facets of commercial single phase and three phase. Going off the top of my head as I recall this device has no method to enter any meaningful rates. It can enter whole numbers that's it, not very helpful to most people. It has no method to drill down and see more granular data or hold more than a a few weeks of data and what is there is not very granular. As I recall the solar NET bubble thing always was present which made no sense if you didn't use it?? With the combination of the Dash Box and the GEM / ECM. The Dash Box can use up to 5 decimals for your rate so if its like mine: $0.07356. It can use and track those who have flat rate, ToU, variable rates. The system can show you the percentage of each load when compared to the mains which helps you identify how that loads plays in the overall costs to you. Both the DB / GEM are 3rd party friendly and have open API and does interface with the ISY. The system can be connected via Wi-Fi, Ethernet, Zigbee, RS-232. The end user can record (default) 2 years of granular minute data, and 12 years of hourly data. The system can be expanded to store more information by upgrading the micro SD card. I have mine set up to record 4 years of minute data, which equates to more than 20 plus years of hourly data. I can capture, monitor, replay any second, minute, hour, day, week, month, year of the following: Watts, Current, KWH, Voltage, VA, Temps, Pulse. I have multiple choices of graphs, charts, tiles, to render all of the above data. I can take any of the monitored channels and compare them to others. The system has multiple views to drill into the circuits along with having the ability to actually place a icon to represent the homes circuit. The system can alert the end user if the system is off line and when its back. It has the ability to send the same energy, temp, water, gas, solar, information to any third party hosting site like SEG. The key thing about the Dash Box (DB) is that it interfaces with the ISY. This allows me to create programs to react to my homes electrical, temperature, pulse, states. All of the above can not be done with the device listed above. It was never intended to be 3rd party friendly or be open to the power users like you and I. Its marketed to the dumb, lazy, and those who believe it will bring them some real information, it doesn't. Having said all of this: It does not take away the accomplishment of their software that is able to at least *think* and guess what loads are present and assign them a name / association. That is in itself impressive as hell!

A proven energy monitoring device is made by Brultech which is made in Canada. They offers two separate devices one is the ECM-1240 which can monitor 7 circuits. The other is the Green Eye Monitor (GEM) which can monitor 32 discrete circuits, 8 1 wire temperature sensors, 4 pulse channels to monitor gas or water. Both can be configured to measure NET metering for those using solar, wind, micro hydro. More information can be found at their respective site located here: http://www.brultech.com/ I have a on going installation thread which has tracked my efforts and journey using the above product located here: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=929 I had seen the smappee advert a number of years ago but found what they indicated to be dubious to say the least. They are saying with only one set of CT's they are able to determine what loads are on / off etc. I can tell you that would be quite the feat in engineering if that were true. Essentially they are using the power of software to track, monitor, and define a load. That sound very simple in the software realm but when applied to a real world electrical system that is impossible to do with any level of accuracy. In the years I have reviewed this product I have yet to see any real spec's on this unit. That in it self should worry those who are interested in knowing the real hard data points. I can tell you factually that nothing you buy (consumer grade) that plugs into a outlet will provide you the same level of accuracy, consistency, and reliability of capturing the energy readings in your home. Than a dedicated energy monitor that actually uses CT's clamped to each live circuit in your service panel. None . . .

Turn off the breaker to the two devices. Simple effective and it works. No need to unplug anything. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

So, I have to ask. Does this sort of thing happen often? If so have you ever considered moving the mail box a few feet back? Or attach a large high vis pole so the morons don't plow it over?

Based on internal specs and photo's of the new Range Extenders it appears to be based on the same lamp linc. So get those instead and save some big dollars along the way. The older AP are built and designed on a completely different platform. Having said this the newer Range Extenders indicate a 200 feet line of site via RF. While the lamp linc indicates a 150 foot effective range line of site. The benefit of the lamplinc is the dual use where as the Range Extender does absolutely nothing except couple RF / Power Line.

Here you go Rick: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2663-222-on-off-outlet-white.html This is my review of the product so you know what to expect: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14735-insteon-onoff-outlet-2663-222-review/

If you still have the rear mounting plate thingy you could simply screw it into the mail box no? Worst case you could use the same mounting plate and drill a small hole in it and attach a safety wire to one end and screw it into the mail box.

I think the first thing you need to understand is that lots of answers depend upon how and what device you use and how its configured to operate. If the micro is set to latching it will apply power the entire time it is on. This is great if the device you have knows when to stop and has a limit switch etc. It does not help if it doesn't and will over drive and burn out the motor. Momentary, will apply power only when you click on the button or virtual button for what ever duration its set for in the micro module. This is great for something that doesn't have a limit switch etc. But does not help if the device is not fully extended or retracted. You need to go back to your guy and find out some details about the gear and provide some spec's. Otherwise you will get the kind of replies from Stu who is being literal to your question at hand. LMAO . . .

First confirm proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in the full users manual in the dual band products you own. If that does not pass, correct it till it does. After I can tell you with 100% certainty if you unplug all the electronic devices in the house. Then, plug one of them and watch your COM's. Once you see COM's degrade or drop leave that item unplugged. Continue on this path until every item is back on line this is the only sure way to know. The process only needs to be done once and its painful for a house full of gizmo's. But, rest assured if you do this you will know 100% what it isn't opposed to guessing. A client asked me was this all necessary and needed? My reply to him was, do you like to be happy?

Rick, Good for you, glad it worked out. This pretty much high lights the importance of the plug in dual band devices. It also stresses the point of area coverage and proper coupling / bridging. Smartlabs indicates for every 1000 feet a dual band device should be used. Personally, that is overly optimistic if these devices are hardwired devices. AP / Range Extenders are still king in range and coupling in my experience.

For something like that its pretty decent for general purpose, no? Maybe I am just spoiled now because the 1 wire network renders better than +/- 0.2. It can also be embedded into areas of extreme temperatures and water with out me worrying about it dying or melting / freezing.

What are we talking about in terms of values? Off by 3-5'F degrees / 4-10% humidity? This is more of a data point for me so any info is great to know.

Grounding is critical in any electrical system. I would have to gather this was your problem. A PSU will only provide what ever the load requires it doesn't matter how big it is. That simply allows you to provide more current to the device should it require it.

Good for you in finding that little sucker. [emoji4] Next time maybe place some high vis tape on the sides or face for the just in case! [emoji5]️[emoji6]

I'm going to a site that has some older devices which span several hardware changes from what is presently being sold today from Smartlabs. Is there currently any limitations on how far back a device can be replaced by the: Replace With? I ask because there are some related threads where people have indicated replacing a exact KPL relay / dimmer did not work. When I looked deeper into why it didn't work at first blush it appeared to me that the device in (general terms) was the same product but in reality was not. ie. KPL dimmer called 24XX what ever compared to 2334-222, 2334-232 would not replace properly. Some of it I can understand like when they changed out the KPL relay from single band to dual band. I just want to avoid having to sit there for twenty hours when we should have simply added the device and associated the new device to the programs and scenes from the onset. Insight

I would perform a query first as one program so the on / off module would refresh its current state. Once known your second program could activate. You can also use IS RESPONDING / is not RESPONDING to ascertain its current status. I also agree with Stu you should deploy another range extender near this location. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

No doubt! [emoji106][emoji75] Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

How much square foot area do you have look around in?

I have several iMeter Solo's that I have just redeployed in my network. I would like to update the power readings and the KWH consumed from a program. What is the correct method to do this query update in five minute intervals, forever?