Teken

ISY Reboot: There isn’t a (present) method to hard boot the ISY Series Controller. You can use an external device like a web based remote switch, egg timer, etc. Lastly, please add your voice to add this feature in the next generation of firmware and Polyisy. [emoji106] As noted by Mr.Bill the system has a default 3:00 AM Query All. You can add the same to a program receive the latest status. If a device not showing the correct status this can be caused by a device that has bad / missing links, noise makers, signal suckers, bad 2413S PLM. NOTE: You can not query any battery operated devices. You will also lose the current state every time you reboot the system. [emoji3516] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You would be better served going with a smart service panel. This assumes your region is supported by the various makers. Going this route negates RF issues as the bulk of them connect via WiFi / Ethernet. Lastly, you will never have to worry about communication issues as the system is managed by the service panel! [emoji106][emoji869] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

32 GB Max, Class 10, The rest doesn’t matter as the controller will never see or use it. The only thing worth spending money on is for a High Endurance Micro SD card. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome and look forward to whatever you find out. I’ll circle back if I ever find that other rod / blinds controller. I figured looking at my YouTube history would be so easy until I realized due to the (COVID-19) all I have been doing is watching dozens of videos for hundreds of projects! [emoji1787][emoji2957] You would figure the blasted infomercial would come up sometime?!? [emoji35][emoji107] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There were at least two Kickstarter projects which used the existing rod and cable. The first one was a failure but had huge potential called flik something. The other was called Axxis I believe and they are as far as I am aware still in business. I’m trying to find the other model for you as they come up in YouTube all the time. But as always right when you need to see the stupid infomercial it doesn’t!! [emoji1785][emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Light weight . . . [emoji1787][emoji869][emoji2357][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All you need to do is unplug the 2412S PLM. Insert the Ethernet cable to the serial port on the ISY. The other end to the new 2413S and apply power. Insure the network cable is also attached to the Ethernet jack in the rear. Take the 12 VDC and insert in the back and apply 120 VAC power (outlet). Wait for the system to come on line and calm down. Login to the AC and simply select the replace PLM. Do not select the DELETE PLM! If you have a pro version of the ISY Series Controller select (enable) the delay battery write. Doing so will allow the system to update the new 2413S PLM without prompting you endlessly to place each battery device into learning mode. Once this entire process is done. You will place a single battery operated device in to learning / programming mode. Go to the device tree and right mouse click on the green (1011) icon and select write update. This will take a very long time so do this on a weekend. Have a large cup of your favourite drink. And sit back and wait . . . [emoji869][emoji1787][emoji2957] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So long as it says centre positive and it fits anyone will do. The more amperage the better but given the ISY Series Controller is so low power one amp is fine too. I would use the 12 VDC as this is what is being shipped to new UDI customers. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may use any 5~30 VDC centre positive power supply. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have only three options with respect to the 2413S PLM: - Hard reset = Full Erase & Reset - Erase PLM = Deletes all programming - Restore PLM = Erases all existing programming and restores all settings & programming held by the ISY Series Controller Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pull the 2413S PLM out of the wall for at least 10 seconds. Press the black set button and continue to hold it while you insert it back into the 120 VAC line. This will erase everything in the unit! But, why?!? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This filter was intended for X10 so will operate fine with Insteon. Whether it helps filter out the noise depends upon the frequency along with magnitude / intensity of the same. You have nothing to lose by trying. Just remember you can always try two. One at the load and one at the switch if needed. This has helped a few people in the past. But make sure you complete a hop test and scene test to gauge success. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried installing a filter at the fan? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If possible could you provide a photo of the current inner workings of the blinds in question? There is another brand / model I saw on YouTube and perhaps this one might fit your needs. [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Personally, unless the goal was just to try something new such as Z-Wave. My focus would really be placed on identifying root cause that is impacting your Insteon network. [emoji3516] The questions I would ask someone is what is the problem? When did it start. Is it persistent and repeatable. What trouble shooting have you done thus far. What new electronic items have you purchased that may correlate with the start of the problem. Have you confirmed proper bridging / coupling via the 4 tap beacon test as outlined in the full users manual. Are there noise filters in place where and when needed. What kind of loads are in place now and have you removed them to see if the problem goes away. If you move the same load to another circuit does the problem follow. Have you reviewed the level 3 logs to determine possible error codes and clues. While viewing the same how many hops are left out of the possible 3. Have you completed a scene test to gauged response times. All of these basic questions if followed and taken off the list will narrow down the possible culprits or at least strike off something that’s not relevant. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All you need to do is order and install the Z-Wave card from UDI. Next flash your controller with the correct firmware. Lastly, follow the steps in the new hardware as to how to add the new device. If you decide to go down this road purchase a Z- Wave Plus device to get the most out of the card and the new network. You’ll need a few (120 VAC) repeaters to bolster the network. So buy something that has dual use like maybe the doorbell?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji1787][emoji106][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's so awesome to hear along with the fact the ISY Series Controller had no issues adding them. Any other issues you could share with would you purchase again if you had to do it all over again??

I’ve been tracking this company for several years since their initial release: https://myiblinds.com/collections/frontpage What attracted me to this is the fact it works with existing blinds. The secondary reason was Z-Wave support. I don’t recall if any member is using this brand / model but you might consider this on your short list. If you pull the trigger please do consider offering your personal experience and feedback here. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a problem with 99999999 dual band devices bra! [emoji1787][emoji106][emoji2956][emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plastic JB?!? [emoji1787] You silly Americans!! [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you or anyone have any sort of energy monitoring available? Very curious to see what this box consumes while idle, running, and when under load test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it! [emoji106] For those who have this unit I would be curious to learn if this unit has a defined battery check. If so, what interval is it and what kind of load is placed on said UPS. Typical enterprise units place a 30% load for 30-60 seconds while it disconnects from the main line. Doing so replicates a true outage while under load. While also checking the hardwares ability to recharge without fault. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to be clear you saw the unit begin charging how many times since its initial deployment? [emoji848] My expectation is the unit would come partially drained due to storage. Once installed the unit would obviously begin the recharge process. I don’t expect the unit to disconnect from line power unless it’s simply doing a load test like many other UPS do to insure proper function and operation. On a related tangent is the case sealed or does it have screws to open the case? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk