Teken

Yes, assuming your Insteon network (RF) mesh is strong and reliable. Key things for a successful Insteon home automation is to ensure the following: - Proper coupling / bridging of the split single phase electrical system. Confirm via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in any products full users manual. - Identify any noise makers / signal suckers and filter, remove, replace. - Verify the AC units power handling falls within the On-Off relay modules specs. - Confirm the On-Off relay module can reliably turn off the AC unit when its fully operational.

Your going to want to confirm that happens in real world use vs paper specs. If the hands on test validate what the paper specs say. Your next step is to install the various Insteon hardware and confirm proper operations. Key area is communications and the network has no issue turning the AC off. Be mindful the AC unit falls within the Insteon power handling capability. If so great - the next step is to move forward with integrating the TSTAT and rinse & repeat the validation process that all systems operate as expected. You will need to build in some safety programs in the ISY Series Controller for watch dog timers for just in case there are power blips. Short cycling the breaker and TSTAT while watching how the AC reacts is imperative.

Your first important task is to confirm how the AC unit behaves once power is applied vs removed. Failure to validate proper operations can result in a failed project vs damaged AC unit.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/18247-autelis-bridge-creating-local-charts-and-graphs/?hl=%2Bcharts+%2Band+%2Bgraphs

There has never been a reported instance of a ALL ON / ALL OFF where there was no controller in place, ever.

Normally a One Link smoke / co is marked as such. I would read the users manual to confirm it's One Link RF supported. [emoji53]

LOL . . . RE: Status you can always use the *Query* to obtain the last known state of said devices. But this is very much a work around and band aid in having the ISY Series Controller know and have control over said hardware. Craft a program to query the outlet and based on that state do X vs Y whether it be send you an email, change a state variable, etc.

I'm not sure I follow what your saying here? Do you in fact have (2) home automation controllers in your home? If so why? If the the HUB II activated the outlet why would you expect the ISY Series Controller to know that?

Looking forward to your feedback on that specific unit. I've considered buying a few of the dimmer outlets to remove that *Wall Wart* look on the walls. But, given most of them are behind a piece of furniture and using the latest exterior design housings its not a big deal in terms of looks. Is it safe to say the dimmer version also doesn't make a click sound like the relay version?

The dual relay outlet does indeed have control & status . . . I can't speak to the outlet dimmer though as I don't own one.

What model of outlet do you have? Older single band? Dual band dimmer vs dual band dual outlet relay? For the latter you have two options *Status vs Control* both will offer different selections from on, off, responding, fast on, fast off, etc.

Information Only: First Alert has repurchased the One Link logo to reflect their Home Automation and security product line. It no longer just represents the RF based linking sensor system. [emoji37][emoji58]☹️ ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello John, Is the light from the GDO unit motor or a light fixture attached to the home?

Hello Tom, You have two choices here from least invasive to full on. - Pull the clear set button out and wait ten seconds. Once that time elapses push the set button back in until flush. - If that doesn't work you can perform a hard reset. Pull out the set button wait ten seconds. Push the button all the way and hold until you see and hear the KPL beep and the load flash. You should review the hard reset procedure for the KPL timer as some details may be different for this model. ie. Sometimes the user will just hear a beep. Other times a beep and the load will flash. While other times just the load flashes. If you perform the hard reset your next step is to right mouse click and select *Restore Device* this will recreate all the programming and links to the system.

In the big picture yes they do.

For the benefit of the forum members can you indicate the hardware production and revision of this TSTAT along with what the ISY Series Controller indicates is the firmware for this device is? As this will help others down the road for comparisons . . . Regarding the quality of the product - I would expect to see a few revisions in the near future for this product. Lastly, every consumer should offer direct feedback and rate the product to help improve said product here: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html#reviews Offering factual feedback along with how to do better is the only way to push the company to do better.

Not sure where you get 0 ~ 127'C from 39'F which is 3.88889'C (Rounded to 4'C) 104'F is 40'C. These are specifications offered by Smartlabs regarding this thermostat: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html In my personal experience residential thermostats will indicate out of band readings either in the following methods: - The lowest value is shown whether it be 39'F as noted by the OP. - Some may indicate a an error or null value. - Some may indicate a binary fault value of say FF I have never seen a residential thermostat having the ability to offer negative (-) value representation preceding the numeric value, ever. Regardless, the OP has clarified the above statement and after repeated resets is in good shape.

Are you saying the environment where this battery operated TSTAT is below 39'F / 4'C? If so, its well outside of the operating temperature of the hardware device which is 39 ~ 104'F / 4 ~ 40'C. There have been several threads where people expected to use the external probe to measure freezing temperatures?!? Again, the TSTAT (Every Normal) TSTAT will not measure negative values or those outside of the standard 39 ~ 104'F range.

This is a software upgrade only. Send a request to UDI with your UUID and they will enable the pro option. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Piconut, May I ask are you seeing premature failures of the light bulbs in use? I ask because this isn't very common these days given 2017 production standards in lighting technology. Even the humble incandescent bulb has a standard 15~25,000 hour service life. It should be noted that older Insteon products did not last very long when a bulb expired. Going off old memory and rolling back the time machine its suspected the back flow of surge current when the bulb blew back fed into the Insteon module and damaged various components in the hardware. I haven't seen any recent threads about dual band modules having the same failure rates due to blown bulbs though. Just wanted to give you a related history lesson in case this is something that is happening . . .

Insteon offers only one hardware devices which detect wattage: Synchro Linc The iMeter Solo has been discontinued and only the Energy Display is available. If you had Z-Wave incorporated into the ISY Series Controller there might be more options in terms of energy monitoring. The only other recourse is to have a dedicated energy monitor that can relay the information to the ISY Series Controller like the Brultech ECM-1240 & Green Eye Monitor (GEM) working in concert with the Dash Box. So no there isn't a simple, direct, method to detect a blown bulb . . .

HTML-5 is under development to replace the entire Java interface - No ETA.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21195-folder-color-status/ Partial green = True not running Solid green = True and running Partial red = False not running Solid red = False and running As for the bluish color no one has offered complete insight to me . . .

Yes, here is the older dual type sensor: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Sorry I misunderstood what you were asking in this case, no.