Teken

You don't add the 2413S PLM . . . Please follow this excellent document Paul B created to help facilitate the replacement process: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/

You have my vote for a purpose built temperature / humidity sensor assuming Smartlabs doesn't decide to integrate the very same into an existing product like the motion sensor. It was really great to see the company take on several of my suggestions about the USB power and many others for the latest motion sensor. I truly believe once full development of the API of the latest motion sensor is released to the developers the consumer will be very impressed with the Insteon motion sensor. Back on topic: I believe there is a market for dedicated Insteon temperature / humidity sensor. My only ask and wants is the sensors must be accurate, offer wide range, and high resolution. As I pro consumer I am willing to pay extra for something that is reliable, accurate, and capable in all aspects of environmental monitoring. Lastly, like the latest motion sensor which offers USB power support I expect to have the same. The only difference is that this new product should use a hardwired power to compliment the battery and not supersede it. Like many here my home is and was inundated with countless battery operated devices. At this stage in my life I have no love for hardware that use batteries as the primary method to operate. I don't need or want the long term costs, reliability, and maintenance issues that comes with having to use said batteries.

If you're using the standard firmware it relies upon the 2413S PLM to be present. If you wish to have the ISY Series Controller ignore this problem you need only install the alternate firmware. Which completely ignores the 2413S PLM as being missing and not connected.

When electronics age things start to happen. Keep in mind older Insteon hardware such as the KPL have been impacted by the very same capacitor issues seen on the 2413S PLM. This could all be a sign the KPL's and not the load is the issue. Depends how old your KPL are and also if they all have the better 100~240 VAC PSU inside. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Everything you've state thus far along with the video points to a noise from the LED loads. Whether they are noise makers vs signal suckers depends upon what the designers have placed inside of the hardware. Generally speaking anytime there are high value capacitors in place they will filter signals. Noise makers generally speaking come from the power supply of the internal ballasts of the hardware. The KPL you referenced does not formally support LED lighting . . . There are only two Insteon products that do which are the ILL and the other I don't recall off the top of my head. A snubber is normally used for items which offer CEMF / kick back like from a fan motor etc. The only reason I offered up the snubber is sometimes LED fixtures do a very poor handling of voltage field handling. A lay person would inquire WTF does voltage field handling mean?!? Basically when you see a LED fixture that tuns off abruptly at 10 to 5% of brightness this is the voltage field handling. Many LED fixtures will kick out huge amounts of voltage when it turns off. Engineers will *Normally* include filters to absorb this voltage spike. Many do a pretty good job while others not so much . . . NOTE: Using a random Snubber can depending upon where its placed on the circuit will impact the Insteon signal. This is why very specific Snubbers with the qualified capacitance value is called out for use.

Everything I've seen points to - a few possible issues: - KPL's are being impacted by the LED load which you stated can not be removed because they are integrated into the housing. Normally a person would remove the load and replace with a incandescent and the results would be self evident. In your case you will never know because nothing can be removed unless you go through the effort to do so. 100% of the time if a load can be turned on but can't be turned off its the load. If a device restore fix's the issue / hard reset its because the load is locking up the KPL and can also make it corrupt links in the hardware. You will probably find replacing the switches to solve the issue in the near term but rest assured that is a band aid because more than likely they too will become erratic / damaged. Moving forward your choices are to replace one single LED unit and see what happens. Or to purchase and install a few inline filters to see if that resolves the issues. In line filters will not resolve feedback issues and if that is the problem a snubber is the correct tool to use. These are the line filters that may help: https://www.x10.com/xpnr-noise-reducer.html This is one of many quality snubbers used by others: http://www.redlion.net/accessory/snub-r-c-snubber-inductive-load-supressor

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Hello Paulw, I've sent you a PM with the direct link to the repair process. Please scroll down to the last quarter of the thread to see the steps taken to repair the KPL.

If the 2413S PLM is nearing the two year production mark it may very well be needing a replacement. When you have time please indicate all the data the white sticker says for the production date etc. In the Admin Console under the Help->About please let us know what the system notes as the firmware in use for the 2413S PLM. You can run a PLM compare also while the house is completely silent with no movement. Run the test 4-5 times and let us know how many links the system indicates. If you say you have for example 25 devices and the system comes back noting 12 links or something really stupid. Its safe to say the 2413S PLM is having issues and needs to be replaced. Please follow the UDI WiKi listed here for the steps to follow to ensure a positive outcome: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Replace_Modem_.28PLM.29 - If the device is under the 2 year warranty period ensure you submit a RMA for replacement and ask for a cross dock. Doing so will charge your CC first but a replacement will come immediately while you send back the old one. - If the 2413S PLM is well past the 2 year warranty mark and you have a soldering iron and some time you can take on this cheap fix: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/page-1 - Other resources: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_No_Status_Feedback_From_Devices - Link Calculator: http://www.universal-devices.com/tools/insteon/calc_plm_links.htm

I suspect during your first go at this something happen. This is why I skipped the whole device restore process as it takes a long time and you simply don't know if its going to work. As labor-some as it is to delete, add, and then recreate the scenes its nothing compared to sitting and waiting for something to happen. When you come back its in the same previous state . . . My humble suggestion is take this week end find a comfortable chair, tall cup of coffee, and just delete, add, and recreate all the scenes. Once done please ensure you complete a new back up and store one to the cloud and one to a local USB storage device.

Delete one single device from the system and add it back. Once fully enrolled press the switch and report back if the level 3 logs show that action.

You don't need to do anything just subscribe to the ISY Portal. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I would say it would bring you to the 2017 Super God Status if you did.

Just to be clear UDI has received the final production units which will be the same hardware the public will see. Alpha / Beta units are just that hardware that were used to determine areas of improvement and design choices. If you placed a pre order for February it will be the same unit as the one UDI needs to reevaluate for integration.

Also just to add one more data point for those having the older leak sensors / open close sensors. You will need to include the on-off heart beat node as some firmware sent a off instead of a on. Including both will increase the chance of success but keep in mind all of this highly depends upon a strong Insteon RF mesh being present. Anyone using Belias's most excellent Leak Sensor program would already know if the device was in proper RF range anyways.

You have several options depending upon the hardware in use. For the motion sensor your only option is to walk past the sensor and once detected the write device update will commence. For those hardware devices which include a heart beat node you can use that as the (IF) condition to initiate the very same. Obviously using the heart beat requires you to wait the customary 24 hours to lapse. Lastly, depending upon hardware / firmware in place for the device a wait of 0-3 seconds may be required to allow the remote write to happen correctly.

This (Auto Demand Response) is for those who have the energy module with the ZigBee daughter board to connect to the homes electrical meter. As I understood it those who participate in the Auto DR could let the system send a signal to the ISY Series Controller in hopes of load shedding high current appliances when the grid was over saturated. Those who participated were offered reduced tiered, ToU, Flat, rates etc. https://www.universal-devices.com/utility/ https://www.universal-devices.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Universal_Devices_ISY994.pdf

I believe there are quite a few people who have pretty much abused the hardware in extreme temperatures. That would include yours truly as mine are in sub arctic weather and haven't skipped a beat. Having said this I don't lay blame to any of the hardware that fails prematurely as its well outside of the stated operating temperatures.

I would think just using the one sensor unless size, looks, and placement is the real issue. Since you have a very tight integration of the ELK to Insteon via the elk module the entire Insteon network is at your beck and call. As you noted if the costs for one ELK sensor is large enough a compromise to meet that value target does make sense. My view is if and when you can use a certified UL / cUL device for security and it offers home automation features it makes sense to follow that route.

I believe its fair to say using a true security sensor with all the other attributes it comes with is a much better route to follow. Going the elk route you would have low battery, fault, tamper, heart beat, RF interrupt detection, etc

And you thought the *Insteon Wish List* wouldn't make a difference! Ha - They heard your plea and made it so . . . NOTE: You could have also used the write update device via programs to make remote changes and simply walked past the sensor to wake it up and push the pending writes.

I am hoping to see this included into the 4.XX branch instead of the 5.XX branch. As several Insteon devices are present only on the 5.XX like the alert module / Insteon siren. Perhaps 5.09 Beta will be first release to show case all three . . .

I think it's safe to say the latest MS will be a great seller. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

On a related tangent the I/O Linc and Open-Close sensor was used for some to determine when and if a AFCI / GFCI breaker - outlet had tripped. Some users have noted Insteon signals or other were tripping AFCI / GFCI's Some wanted to use what they already had on hand like you. Using this very simple configuration enabled them to know if and when the fridge, freezer, sump, what ever had lost power. In this specific use case extra auxiliary devices were not required. I would have no issues using this setup for that purpose so long as they understood the limitations.

Saw this a couple of days ago but for the life of me it didn't make any sense until I read this article: http://www.aftvnews.com/amazon-echo-and-echo-dot-update-adds-computer-wake-word-to-help-complete-the-star-trek-fantasy/