Teken

Its interesting that some people have to go through so many hoops while others do absolutely nothing and it works? I still have the same network attributes as I had before and all port forwarding is present. I can connect with out issue at this point. The connected home really had me going for about an hour and just about gave up. As I stated if it wasn't for my partner in crime Xathros's comment about deleting amazon portal from the UDI Portal and disabling the iOS Alexa App. The *Connected Home* would have never found the ISY . . . Also, here is another nugget that for what ever reason must be done. In Michel's steps there is a link which for what ever reason seems to be the only thing that makes the stupid thing reference the ISY to Echo. Using the App will literally give you a false positive and you will think its all working when in fact it doesn't. With out someone actually showing a person what to look for. In this case the ISY should be listed as an option like you see for the Insteon HUB, SmartThings, etc. This option never appears unless you use the link Michel has in his instructions. Give it a whirl and I assure you it will be like X-MAS when it shows up!

Yeah, I have been tracking that very issue you and others have seen. In my case it has nothing to do with my network as the controller was already set to DHCP with a reserved IP via the router. The problem seems to me which has been a long time issue is that the controller does not react the same way when soft booted vs a hard boot of removal of power. Next, I went the extra step to remove the controller from the portal and the expected step was to go to the portal tab locally in the controller and enable the portals addition of the ISY. I was greeted with a pop up message that said something like *bad response* or what ever. After putzing around for another ten minutes I tried another soft reboot and the registration took hold. Lastly, if it wasn't for Xathros's comment about deleting all links and associations from the portal / app. I would have never been able to see these mythical device lists! That literally took an hour to get working because the App would tell you it disabled the skill when in fact it didn't! EDIT: Are people also seeing the *More Info* tab in the controller does absolutely nothing besides launching another web browser which has a blank page WTF?

What causes the portal to not see the ISY? After repeated soft / hard reboots the portal continues to show a gray status LED and the system indicates the controller is off line? Logging into the controller locally / remotely show its on line and obviously accessible . . .

+1 This, my friends is the long term solution as it avoids so many questions and support calls.

Thanks guys for the feed back and charting visuals as this helps out a lot. As a refresher which part of the system is cloud based vs local? Specifically, if there is no Internet access at the site can the tag manager continue to track the data and also send information? I assume all charting is hosted in this companies cloud portals service. Which I do recall they made a commitment to keep it free for life and also believe Michael indicated that should they ever go under they would release the API as open source. Are the statements made above still true and accurate? Larry, all in how much did this cost to get door to door?

Smokegrub, Could you offer a little more detail as to how you determined the the TSTAT was no longer reporting its status? Also, can you let us know what steps you took to remedy the current situation.

Hello Leon, The connection is via wireless ZigBee RF and as Stu noted. You simply need to purchase the hardware which includes the activation for the energy module. You may follow this link to see the upgrade pricing and purchase option: https://www.universal-devices.com/sales/

Nice, looks to me some reading is in store for me this week. I would still like to read from you what the real world experience is in your environment is. As I was asked about these devices from another friend who needs a wireless solution but must have high accuracy and RF distance. Bottom line looking for me is reading first bullet points of all the good, bad, and ugly. Then reading about what the limitations are with respect to local vs cloud etc. You offered some fantastic insight in a related thread and that was the TSTAT comparisons many of us were interested in. I believe you share like minds in offering *critical thinking* of what a product can and can't do. As you're probably aware I'm not after hearing about the fluff but want the facts with real world testing to prove it out. I've been burned too many times in offering suggestions to others about new tech or the next big cloud service(s). So would rather learn from others who have them before I even consider suggesting this device to my friend.

I would love a walk through and a simple step by step guide to the above. Along with real world experience about how it operates in a freezer environment.

You could - but realize what ever hair is on your head will quickly fall out once you realize half your home doesn't operate as you expect it to. Life's about measured response and making educated risks in hopes of a positive outcome. I will simply leave you with this to consider. Is doing this chore half aszzed now to save a little time or is it better to know you will be doing this 99999999 more times because nothing works? Life's about choices and speaking from personal experience - Just invest the time now and enjoy the system knowing it all works as designed and expected.

I will state the obvious things in case you were not aware of them. The last 99 Series Controller firmware does not support lots of the current Insteon hardware. So in this case you might run into a situation where you're trying for hours to add a device and the system comes up with a whole bunch of random errors. That is something you need to fully consider first . . . Next, you need a 2413S PLM to work with the 99 Series Controller so unless the $40.XX get you both. You're going to have to shell out more money for that portion. Next on a more positive note lets assume all of your current Insteon hardware is recognized and works off the bat. The 99 Series Controller is a fantastic little box to dip your toes into what the conditional logic will allow you to do and experience. I say baring the above *What Ifs* go to town and enjoy the system and learn more about what you can ultimately do with the 994 Series Controller. My personal view is you save up until such time as you're able to finance a 994 Series Controller. Keeping in mind you can simply purchased the base model and upgrade anything when your finances allow. That's my $0.00000000000000000000000001

Barry, From the bottom of my achy breaky heart. Thank you for taking the time to explain in detail the two service offerings. [emoji4] I don't know about anyone else. But his reply should be appended in a FAQ or pinned somewhere for all to see and read. [emoji106] In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends.

I wouldn't go that far at this point but have experienced the same thing you're going through now. In my case I simply killed the power to the ISY Series Controller and waited about 30 seconds. Once that was done I powered up the controller and did a restore from a good known back up. After that long process completed I hard reset the PLM and went through the whole PLM restore process. I absolutely disabled the battery write so it didn't slow down the PLM restore process. Given the number of devices you have this should take about 4-8 hours and this includes doing the single battery write one at a time. Don't even think about doing the auto write update option because you're going to lose more hair on your balding head and raise your stress level five bars. Go smoke a blunt and kick back a few cold ones . . .

Wait till you need to update all the battery only devices. Ha . . .

I can relate but 24 HR's seems a little out of place considering you have all the latest Insteon gear. I could understand if you had generation one devices which were not ics2. But 24 hours later wow . . .

Did you try both methods I indicated above? Keeping in mind the device should be brought right next to the PLM.

This is for the v1.9 open close sensor: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2843-222-en.pdf

Is the device less than two years old since you purchased it from Smarthome? If so you're eligible to send it back and receive a replacement unit as its covered under the 2 year warranty period. Go to the Smarthome site and look up your last few purchases and see if you make the 2 year warranty period. For your personal edification that unit was produced in the first week of 2014 and has a hardware revision of 1.9

These are the items I would first review and consider before throwing out the old unit in no specific order. 1. Install and use the latest 994 Series Controller firmware which is 4.4.2 while following ALL the required steps in the update link and ensure you clear the Java Cache while checking off all three box's. Next down load the Admin Console of your choice for the 4.4.2 firmware. Followed by selecting the Help -> About both the UI & Firmware should match and indicate 4.4.2. If it doesn't you need to follow the update and the steps I indicated above. Failure to do this will result in very strange one off issues to be seen . . . 2. Hard reset the device for the model year of Open-Close Sensor. Please indicate the hardware production date and revision on the white sticker for the forum members and once you're able to add it back what the ISY indicates as the firmware. 3. Once the device is proven to be hard reset bring the device to the 2413S PLM. Select two whirling colored arrows in the Admin Console and follow the steps outlined by the pop up message. If that fails to add the device try the other *New Insteon Device* and confirm you're not mistaken a 8 vs B, O vs 0, D vs O etc. If all of the above fails to let you add back the device perhaps its bad which would be a incredible to see. Then you can ship the broken device to me to play with and I will pay for shipping! Ha . . .

Currently I can't take advantage of any of these features and updates with this service. But have to extend my thanks to you and the entire UDI team in pushing so quickly with these new enhancements to the portal service. Well done and bravo!

Yeah a little disappointing to say the least in that its so hard to find high output LED bulbs that either don't make any hum, buzzing, or flicker. The only thing worse is if it impacts the Insteon network along with that odd stepped dimming look. It took me about a week to purchase ten different brands and models until I found the ones that just worked perfectly for me. I was pretty surprised to see many others who purchased HD Cree bulbs seeing negative results and chalked that up to improper use or bad stock. Having seen three identical sites using the same three models of Cree bulbs ranging from 60, 75, 100 watts and all of them showing the same issue about 30-60 days out was a little depressing. My view is the race to the bottom in terms of price is impacting the over all quality in the market place. Sadly, I can't explain how a $28.XX bulb would be considered cheap for one single bulb and not have some kind of quality in it?!?! I could probably accept it if the bulb was like $5.XX and chalk it up to being just a cheap aszz. But in this case I've found the current shipping Cree bulbs simply don't offer any long term use and reliability that works with Insteon. Thanks for the quick review and feed back I was hoping you would find a few Cree bulbs that worked. Can you indicate the production date of those 100 watt units? Lastly, don't forget to offer a review on the HD website as its important to share that information to the next potential buyer. I normally don't take much stalk in reviews depending upon the sales channel. But when you see dozens of *current* reviews all saying the same thing from across North America. You have to take that feed back with some consideration . . .

I believe that was indicated earlier on from another forum member. As I understood it this was done because the current method would not invoke and update the application correctly. Keeping in mind the relay literally opens / closes and what you see is just a visual indicator which has no baring on the real status or operations of the relay. Meaning, once you press open the relay will activate and go back to its resting state. I know it bothers people to see the relay in the (ON) position when they know its actually (OFF). I don't see this behavior at all but can understand why someone would want to see the visual track with the real world condition of the relay. My only concern is that the (Sensor) indicates its true state which it should always be whether it be Open-Close. As an aside many of us have installed a Open-Close (Trigger Linc) sensor on the door as a fail over confirmation. I did this more than five years ago to test out some ideas and back up systems. Using the two in concert with one another does indeed offer more security and door position state.

It will be great once the 994 Series Controller supports all Insteon feature options. Thus far several years have pasted and no movement has been seen in this area which impacts several current shipping products. In no specific order these are the items still pending software support to access features / options: Lamp Linc, Open Close, iMeter Solo, Energy Display, Switch Linc Timer. I have many of the older Switch Linc Timers and to date the options show up but the system will not allow the changes to be made and saved. This has been going on for the last six years since owning these switches brand new and have yet to see any work done in this area. At the current pace of development most of these devices will be out of production and there still won't be a fix! I could understand if the API documentation was not known or made available like it has been for the most recent product which is the Alert Module. But in the above examples the documentation (IS) available and these features are still not incorporated. Why?

Did you follow the above and wiggle the wires while the unit was under power? Did you pull on the cables to ensure they were all secure and tight in the plug jack? If so great and you can move on to the next steps. If not, that would be a next step to validate the install is sound and true.

Seems to me its a hit or miss with some brands or models of LED bulbs. If we simply ignore the HA aspect for a moment lots of family and friends have indicated many of the LED bulbs have not lasted the stated run time. Keeping in mind some of these failures I suspect are due to not following basic installation guidelines. Some indicate indoor use only and people are clearly using them outdoors. While others indicate they can not be installed into any enclosed case yet people do so. Then, you have people who place none dimmable LED bulbs on a dimmer thinking (ALL) of these LED bulbs dim?!?! Just these three basics have probably killed more LED bulbs I gather than poor quality & design. Now having said this the three sites I mentioned above all used the proper bulbs for the areas of use. Yet they did not fail in a normal way one would expect and that is no obvious noise, visual flicker etc. But saturated the power line with noise which essentially killed half the house in two installs. Just some points to consider here and keep in mind millions of people have had great success with the Cree brand. Use your own experience to guide you and perhaps things just might work out. Or not . . . Ha!