carealtor

Yes, there is a lag because of the IFTTT component. Typically 1-2 seconds for me. For what do with it, it is acceptable to me. I'm going Harmony Hub -> SmartThings Hub (virtual switch) -> IFTTT -> ISY Portal -> ISY. The other way, to keep things synced, it goes ISY (network resources) -> IFTTT -> SmartThings Hub -> Harmony Hub. I have no doubt that IFTTT could be eliminated, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out. On the plus side, there is no IR involved. It's all over the network. This works for me, but it's not perfect, at least my setup isn't. I only have on/off control of lights from the Harmony, no dimming. I also have some looping issues because of the IFTTT delay if I toggle a physical light switch on and off too fast. 

It CAN be done with the Harmony Elite. I do it. But not directly. I have to use a SmartThings hub and some IFTTT as go-betweens, but my setup does work.

Finally! Thank you.

I see this from time to time. Usually a query will fix it. Seriously, if you haven't already tried this, right click the device and hit Query. It may work! It usually does for me.

Interesting discussion and thank you to all. Honestly, when I made the original post, I just expected someone who was still on V4 would tell me if it was there or not. I thought I remembered being able to see what the backlight level was set to, but I'm probably remembering wrong.

No, not trying to set the backlight. I know how to do that. The question was about seeing what the current backlight level is.

Seriously?

Is there a way to see what the current backlight level is set to? I recently went from V4 to V5. I may be remembering wrong, but I thought I could see the current backlight level in V4. I'm not seeing it in V5.

As a Realtor and an ISY enthusiast, I would agree that this is right on the mark. I would never, EVER, agree to leave behind my home brewed home automation.

There are instructions somewhere in the Autelis Wiki that explains how to set up variables on the ISY and how to check a box on the Autelis to propagate those variables. This is how the Autelis controller talks to the ISY. In order to for the ISY to talk to the Autelis, you use Network Resouces. I think this is covered in the ISY Wiki... or else the Autelis Wiki... I forget which.

I've been through this a couple of times. I take out ALL the HA light switches and such before putting the house on the market. When I buy a house I install systems that CAN be automated, but will also function on their own and as people expect. For instance, Ecobee thermostats, RainMachine sprinkler controller, Pentair pool controller, Vista 20P alarm... All these can be integrated into HA, but work great without HA too.

I purposely avoided the use of the term Device in my question and used Things instead. I suppose I could used the term Scenes, but it needs to be understood that the Scene that would get turned on at a certain event is not necessarily (and probably isn't ) the same Scene that gets turned off at some other Event.

I have several Things that turn on in relation to sunset. Porch lights, landscape lights, hall lights, pool lights, etc. Some of these Things turn off at a certain time, some when we go to bed, some in relation to sunrise. Should I program in terms of Events: Program 1: at sunset, turn on all the Things Program 2: at bedtime, turn off some Things Program 3: at time x, turn off some Things Program 4: at sunrise, turn off some Things Or should I program in terms of Things: Program 1: from sunset to bedtime, turn on some Things, otherwise turn those Things off. Program 2: from sunset to time x, turn on some Things, otherwise turn those Things off. Program 3: from sunset to sunrise, turn on some Things, otherwise turn those Things off. Both will work, but I wonder which approach is "better".

The Smartenit daughter board does have the F1 fuse. In fact, I just disconnected it to test some of the things you said in your post. After disconnecting the F1 fuse the ISY will not power on unless the "external power supply" is used. Letting it run for awhile and trying a few things that were causing failures before, the PLM is now stable. So it seems running the ISY from a 2413 causes it to overload.

Thank you Brian. That is the kind of knowledgeable feedback I was hoping for.

yes, that is what I mean.

When I got my first ISY, it was around the time that the 2412S PLM was replaced with the 2413S PLM. I'm guessing this was probably 8-10 years ago. I really liked the idea of having the ISY powered through the PLM so I really wanted to use the 2412S, but it was no longer available. I ended up purchasing a SimpleHomeNet (now Smartenit) 5010K PLM which, at the time, was advertised as being functionally equivalent to a 2412S. This PLM has worked flawlessly with my ISY(s) since I purchased it and used in 3 different homes over the many years. This last weekend I was rearranging some cables in my closet. I unplugged the cable between the PLM and ISY, repositioned it where I wanted, and plugged it back in. When I plugged the cable into the PLM, I heard a "snap!" and the ISY did not light up. I went and dug up the power cord that came with the ISY and plugged it in and it lit up. So this told me that the PLM just blew something. I remembered I had another PLM in my stash of stuff from when I was playing with OpenHab a little bit. This is a 2413U. I knew about the capacitor replacement fix for the PLM, so Plan A was that I would scavenge the capacitors out of the 2413U and fix the 5010K. I opened them both up and realized immediately that the "guts" were very very different between the two and that Plan A was not going to pan out. This is all new to me as I've never had a PLM failure before, but the next thing I noticed was that I could physically swap the daughter boards that have the USB and RJ45 jacks on them. So that is what I did. I used the main board from the 2413U and the RJ45 daughter board from the fried 5010K PLM. The third thing I noticed was that this guy was cracked in two in the 5010K PLM. This no doubt was the snap that I heard. What is really interesting, is that I can power the ISY through my Frankenstein PLM, even though the 2413 supposedly does not do this. Seems like the ability to power the ISY is a function of the RJ45 daughter board. Now, the problem. My Frankenstein PLM is exhibiting the same symptoms that I've read for a failing PLM, even though it is barely used. If I do more than a few device writes, it stops working and the green light goes out. When this happens, if I unplug the cable from the PLM (leaving the PLM plugged into the wall outlet), wait a bit, then plug it back in, it will all work again. It also seems to be very warm. Seems like maybe it is overheating and I wonder if this is because I am also powering the ISY with it. However, using the ISY power cable does not help.

I use one of the more complex methods that Stu mentioned. I'm going Harmony Hub -> SmartThings Hub (virtual switch) -> IFTTT -> ISY Portal -> ISY. The other way, to keep things synced, it goes ISY (network resources) -> IFTTT -> SmartThings Hub -> Harmony Hub. I have no doubt that IFTTT could be eliminated, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out. On the plus side, there is no IR involved. It's all over the network. This works for me, but it's not perfect, at least my setup isn't. I only have on/off control of lights from the Harmony, no dimming. I also have some looping issues because of the IFTTT delay if I toggle a physical light switch on and off too fast.

Where does the Smartenit EZIComm fit into this? That's what I've been using for many years now.

I'm pretty sure what stusviews outlines will not work with the home control buttons on the Harmony Elite. You would have to use the screen "buttons" or some of the other hard buttons. The problem with this is, you have to be in an activity to turn a light on. This of course defeats the purpose of purchasing the Harmony Elite with the intention of using the home control buttons, which are always live.

I was in the same dilemma. I wanted to use the home control buttons on my Harmony Elite to control my Insteon lights. I ended up buying a SmartThings Hub to communicate with the Harmony Hub and then IFTTT to communicate between the ISY and the Smarthings Hub. I bit sluggish because of the IFTTT, but it works for me and there are no headaches trying to use the Insteon Hub.

Rocklin Ca, Northern California nearish to Sacramento. I'm now wondering if it would be possible/practical to install the shadess now and then convert to motorized later. That way I could get exactly the motors I want, which would be Somfy RTS 110v AC.

Okay, I figured this out. Bali Autoview from Lowes and Home Depot use Somfy motors that are NOT RTS. I think this is a relatively new development for Bali blinds and they used to use RTS motors. What I probably will ultimately want to do is Stu's setup: Somfy URTS and Autellis Somfy interface. But I still have to figure where to order shades, if that is even possible.

Well, now I'm back to confused again. How recently did you purchase Bali from Lowes? Bali calls their motorized products "Autoview"... is this what yours are too?

Oh. Okay.