dbwarner5

@Goose66 Just upgraded to 3.25. Motion node added. Currently at unknown, probably because it hasn't been triggered yet. Question for clarification: The lockout node disables any remote control of the door, but still allows the wall controller to open / shut the door? So not to be confused with the "lock" that the door has that throws locked when the door is closed? thanks. Have it installed in two pole barn doors. This summer, will add to my three house doors too. Great!

just to be clear, you went through the process to get the beep after about 10 seconds of holding the air gap button pushed in? The switches do die occasionally. I just replaced on that was about 7 years old. Same reason. Resetting it via the air gap worked for a while, then it no longer worked. Replacement has worked fine. good luck.

So if the ISY cant communicate with the device, then Alexa also can't as it goes thru the ISY, so that is most likely your Alexa problem, as you probably have already guessed. I have found that the above comes usually when a switch may be dying if you haven't changed anything in the actual wiring of the switch, or added a new appliance nearby that could be causing noise, or it just needs reseting. First step would be to pull out the Gap button and then after a delay, push it back in and hold it until the switch beeps and then comes back on to full. This is the most typical way of resetting the switch. Then open up your AC to the ISY and select the switch and right click -> restore. sometimes the switches just need to be reset. Start there and if not, then the switch may have died, or you have some new very loud interference nearby.

@javi you recently suggested in another thread about using global color schemes to easily see lights on or off status. I recently set mine to red for Positive and green for Zero. Some questions for you: -why is that called zero vs false? -Under Devices, the colors work as expected: However, when I look at a scene, they are still all blue, whether on or off: And then when I look at my programs, all the folders are all red, and the programs are all red, even if they are true or false. This is very confusing.. should programs and folders have their own global settings versus devices? Thanks.

Not quite. Think about it this way.... If ANYTHING in the IF statement changes, that IF will be re-evaluated for true or false. So if you have two conditions such as your variable and time and the variable meets the condition and doesn't change, but then the time changes to make that part of the statement true (or false), the IF will evaluate and either the THEN or ELSE will run. That is why being very clear about what you want to achieve is important. If I understand, you want certain lights to come on when it is dark, when you arrive home, but if you are home, you dont want them to come on? If that is correct, then you should follow the two program method, with program 1 enabled and checking to see if you are home. The true should then run program 2 (if) that is disabled that has the time schedule in the IF and the lights in the then. Would suggest you use From Sunset + 30minutes to sunrise next day, so that it can vary time wise with seasonal changes of sunset (dark)

Am in hte process of doing just that! thanks.

Yes, 7 scenes.

So here is the link table of th micro dimmer that comes on by itself frequently. The compare DID show a problem. I have restored it and redid the links compare. All good now. I will do the same with the devices that are all shown in the links table as well. Thanks.

Once you do a few, they become more second nature. Glad you figured it out!

Thanks everyone for the input. -No idea how to compare links tables per suggestions above. - Most of my devices are pre-December 2016 as house was built in 2015 with most all new insteon devices at the time, so isolating a few isnt really an option. -The x10 signals were happening all night long when there was little to no other activity. -Yes I still have a transceiver running to connect to several older chimes and one plug unit HOWEVER... in checking the logs, since I removed the batteries from one the one device I found that still had them in, there have been no more x10 A2 signals across my ISY log. So that solved that issue. Still looking for the possible All/on signal that may be tripping mostly my micro dimmer, but occasionally one or two ceiling fans as well. Thanks again.

How? By looking at the device in the AC and seeing what it’s a controller / responder to on the right side? Or is there a diagnostic tool that will issue a report? thanks

@Techman how would I do that? I have > 250 Insteon devices and > 500 nodes. thanks

Considered that but I have too many custom settings.

Yes it is a royal pain. But once completed it is pretty convenient. That is another reason to use scenes. less to configure.

While trouble shooting a AllOn possible event per @Michel Kohanim post below, I found an odd X10 device A2 cycling randomly at all times of the day. The strange part about this is that while I had this x10 device in the past, it is no longer in use, nor in My Lighting or found in any of my programs via the Find/Replace command. I did find one old X10 Motion sensor in my parts bin that had a set of batteries in it. While its not in my tree, could it still have been sending all on commands or cycling because of hte low battery status? Any thoughts anyone? Log from AC: MyLighting sorted by Address. Only three x10 devices and none at A2: MyLighting sorted by Type, same.

Yes. that is correct. But you can have. folder where all the lights are in it, but you will have to click on the folder to see the status of the lights. Otherwise a scene can be the node and it can change based on conditions.

It is up to what you want to achieve. You can list the individual lights as well. Some may prefer a folder for each room where each room has every light listed in it etc. Others might want scenes to simplify. The flexibility is there to do whatever it is you want.

You can do a copy of a button under the edit mode and then edit the4new button for the new source data. However I found mixed results with it.

There are so many ways to do this. If you cant put the bond bridge into the scene, here are two ways. 1) have Alexa tied to programs that turn the bond bridge and scene on in the THEN.. ELSE turns the bond bridge off and the same scene off.. No IF statement. 2) have Alexa tied to the scenes and hav e program that tests the condition of the KPL in hte IF and then sets the bond bridge on. A fourth program would be needed for the off scenerario when all kpls are off.

Can you clarify what isnt changing? the status in UD mobile, or the lights themselves, or both? I am assuming by your statement that it is the UDM status that is not changing? I have had issue in UD Mobile where the status doesn't change unless you change screens and go back to the screen. This seemed to have resolved itself with the latest versions though. Are you on 1.1.48 of UDM? Some other times, it is just a bit slow to change. Click it once and wait a bit to see if the status changes? If not resolved by the above, you should open a ticket. Or try making a backup of UDM, deleting the app, reloading it and then restoring from the backup you made.

If the bond bridge is in your node tree then it should work in a scene. Have you tried putting it in the scene. Thst was my point

Several things come to mind. If you get into a loop and have the AC open, you can sometimes right click on the programs and stop them or disable them to get the ISY to stop looping w/o rebooting. 1) you really dont need all those Run else's . That is where your loops are coming from. For example if this program runs the low else path and in the low else path, it runs the high else path, you begin the loop. I would remove them. You also dont want the other programs to run their else's, as they will also turn off the bond bridge when in fact you want the Bond Bridge on high. 2) Depending on how you have Alexa set up, you may not need any programs at all. Start by adding the Bond bridge to each of the scenes. This is my Scene with the FanLinc motor in it: (my fan high button on the KPL is the controller of the scene). In this manner, each button press will keep all the button lights and the bond bridge in sync with each other For Alexa, there are two things. How will Alexa trigger the ISY... For a long time, I simply tied a custom voice command (routine) in Alexa to the scenes and did not use any programs at all. However, I found that she often got confused so I added my Fanlinc motor to Alexa under the category of FAN, and added 4 simple programs. Alexa voice command now turns the fanlinc motor to low, med or high. (Alex turn great room fan to low) Once the fan linc motor changes, it triggers a very simple program that runs the corresponding scene to sync the buttons. Yes, these programs will run redundantly when I push a KPL button which triggers a scene that turns on the motor, but it does not cause a loop because once the status of the fanlinc is recognized as high, it wont re-trigger it if it gets set to high again. But at the same time all the other programs will turn false, which is your housekeeping concern. GR Fan High - [ID 0368][Parent 0367] If 'GR Fanlinc Fan' Status is High Then Set 'Ceiling Fans / Great Room / GR Fan on High' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Hope this helps. If not, try reaching out again... good luck.

Hmm.. I have two breaker boxes, so in theory, four legs to cover. My PLM is on a plug that is hardwired, 4' away to one leg on one breaker box. With ~250 insteon devices with 98% of them dual bridge I would be surprised if that is the issue. However, there is an ice maker nearby this micro dimmer and could possibly be causing some weird interference. I have an old Range Extender, which is also a bridge. I will play around with it, moving it around to see if I can bridge better and eliminate the gremlin. Thanks!

@gadgetfreak does your setup look like this? And are you sure you selected the right scene? You can double check it with the AC by looking at hte number of the scene. In this case, it's 51106. In the AC under the Scene name, once selected, it shows that number. Also be sure to hit save and lastly, one other thing is to occasionally go to (on the UD Mobile app) Settings then select the top opting, Systems , then select your system, and a screen should pop up with would yo like to synchronize now. Hit Yes and then delete any variables it says you dont need. I have found this keeps the two in sync whenever you make changes in the AC. ?

KPL buttons can only be controlled by scenes. So you are on the right track. Proper programming can easily overcome your challenge. Will need a bit more information on the programs you have and so that we can see the loop you are creating and overcome it. I use Alexa to change the fan motor speed and then four programs that adjust the scene. Here is an example: Mbed Fan High - [ID 0360][Parent 0293] If 'MBed Fanlinc Fan' Status is High Then Set 'Ceiling Fans / Master Bedroom / MBed Fan on High' On Here is the Alexa setting for a great room fan. Master is the same.