dbwarner5

Not quite. Think about it this way.... If ANYTHING in the IF statement changes, that IF will be re-evaluated for true or false. So if you have two conditions such as your variable and time and the variable meets the condition and doesn't change, but then the time changes to make that part of the statement true (or false), the IF will evaluate and either the THEN or ELSE will run. That is why being very clear about what you want to achieve is important. If I understand, you want certain lights to come on when it is dark, when you arrive home, but if you are home, you dont want them to come on? If that is correct, then you should follow the two program method, with program 1 enabled and checking to see if you are home. The true should then run program 2 (if) that is disabled that has the time schedule in the IF and the lights in the then. Would suggest you use From Sunset + 30minutes to sunrise next day, so that it can vary time wise with seasonal changes of sunset (dark)

Am in hte process of doing just that! thanks.

Yes, 7 scenes.

So here is the link table of th micro dimmer that comes on by itself frequently. The compare DID show a problem. I have restored it and redid the links compare. All good now. I will do the same with the devices that are all shown in the links table as well. Thanks.

Thanks everyone for the input. -No idea how to compare links tables per suggestions above. - Most of my devices are pre-December 2016 as house was built in 2015 with most all new insteon devices at the time, so isolating a few isnt really an option. -The x10 signals were happening all night long when there was little to no other activity. -Yes I still have a transceiver running to connect to several older chimes and one plug unit HOWEVER... in checking the logs, since I removed the batteries from one the one device I found that still had them in, there have been no more x10 A2 signals across my ISY log. So that solved that issue. Still looking for the possible All/on signal that may be tripping mostly my micro dimmer, but occasionally one or two ceiling fans as well. Thanks again.

How? By looking at the device in the AC and seeing what it’s a controller / responder to on the right side? Or is there a diagnostic tool that will issue a report? thanks

@Techman how would I do that? I have > 250 Insteon devices and > 500 nodes. thanks

Considered that but I have too many custom settings.

Yes it is a royal pain. But once completed it is pretty convenient. That is another reason to use scenes. less to configure.

While trouble shooting a AllOn possible event per @Michel Kohanim post below, I found an odd X10 device A2 cycling randomly at all times of the day. The strange part about this is that while I had this x10 device in the past, it is no longer in use, nor in My Lighting or found in any of my programs via the Find/Replace command. I did find one old X10 Motion sensor in my parts bin that had a set of batteries in it. While its not in my tree, could it still have been sending all on commands or cycling because of hte low battery status? Any thoughts anyone? Log from AC: MyLighting sorted by Address. Only three x10 devices and none at A2: MyLighting sorted by Type, same.

Yes. that is correct. But you can have. folder where all the lights are in it, but you will have to click on the folder to see the status of the lights. Otherwise a scene can be the node and it can change based on conditions.

It is up to what you want to achieve. You can list the individual lights as well. Some may prefer a folder for each room where each room has every light listed in it etc. Others might want scenes to simplify. The flexibility is there to do whatever it is you want.

You can do a copy of a button under the edit mode and then edit the4new button for the new source data. However I found mixed results with it.

There are so many ways to do this. If you cant put the bond bridge into the scene, here are two ways. 1) have Alexa tied to programs that turn the bond bridge and scene on in the THEN.. ELSE turns the bond bridge off and the same scene off.. No IF statement. 2) have Alexa tied to the scenes and hav e program that tests the condition of the KPL in hte IF and then sets the bond bridge on. A fourth program would be needed for the off scenerario when all kpls are off.

Can you clarify what isnt changing? the status in UD mobile, or the lights themselves, or both? I am assuming by your statement that it is the UDM status that is not changing? I have had issue in UD Mobile where the status doesn't change unless you change screens and go back to the screen. This seemed to have resolved itself with the latest versions though. Are you on 1.1.48 of UDM? Some other times, it is just a bit slow to change. Click it once and wait a bit to see if the status changes? If not resolved by the above, you should open a ticket. Or try making a backup of UDM, deleting the app, reloading it and then restoring from the backup you made.

If the bond bridge is in your node tree then it should work in a scene. Have you tried putting it in the scene. Thst was my point

Several things come to mind. If you get into a loop and have the AC open, you can sometimes right click on the programs and stop them or disable them to get the ISY to stop looping w/o rebooting. 1) you really dont need all those Run else's . That is where your loops are coming from. For example if this program runs the low else path and in the low else path, it runs the high else path, you begin the loop. I would remove them. You also dont want the other programs to run their else's, as they will also turn off the bond bridge when in fact you want the Bond Bridge on high. 2) Depending on how you have Alexa set up, you may not need any programs at all. Start by adding the Bond bridge to each of the scenes. This is my Scene with the FanLinc motor in it: (my fan high button on the KPL is the controller of the scene). In this manner, each button press will keep all the button lights and the bond bridge in sync with each other For Alexa, there are two things. How will Alexa trigger the ISY... For a long time, I simply tied a custom voice command (routine) in Alexa to the scenes and did not use any programs at all. However, I found that she often got confused so I added my Fanlinc motor to Alexa under the category of FAN, and added 4 simple programs. Alexa voice command now turns the fanlinc motor to low, med or high. (Alex turn great room fan to low) Once the fan linc motor changes, it triggers a very simple program that runs the corresponding scene to sync the buttons. Yes, these programs will run redundantly when I push a KPL button which triggers a scene that turns on the motor, but it does not cause a loop because once the status of the fanlinc is recognized as high, it wont re-trigger it if it gets set to high again. But at the same time all the other programs will turn false, which is your housekeeping concern. GR Fan High - [ID 0368][Parent 0367] If 'GR Fanlinc Fan' Status is High Then Set 'Ceiling Fans / Great Room / GR Fan on High' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Hope this helps. If not, try reaching out again... good luck.

Hmm.. I have two breaker boxes, so in theory, four legs to cover. My PLM is on a plug that is hardwired, 4' away to one leg on one breaker box. With ~250 insteon devices with 98% of them dual bridge I would be surprised if that is the issue. However, there is an ice maker nearby this micro dimmer and could possibly be causing some weird interference. I have an old Range Extender, which is also a bridge. I will play around with it, moving it around to see if I can bridge better and eliminate the gremlin. Thanks!

@gadgetfreak does your setup look like this? And are you sure you selected the right scene? You can double check it with the AC by looking at hte number of the scene. In this case, it's 51106. In the AC under the Scene name, once selected, it shows that number. Also be sure to hit save and lastly, one other thing is to occasionally go to (on the UD Mobile app) Settings then select the top opting, Systems , then select your system, and a screen should pop up with would yo like to synchronize now. Hit Yes and then delete any variables it says you dont need. I have found this keeps the two in sync whenever you make changes in the AC. ?

KPL buttons can only be controlled by scenes. So you are on the right track. Proper programming can easily overcome your challenge. Will need a bit more information on the programs you have and so that we can see the loop you are creating and overcome it. I use Alexa to change the fan motor speed and then four programs that adjust the scene. Here is an example: Mbed Fan High - [ID 0360][Parent 0293] If 'MBed Fanlinc Fan' Status is High Then Set 'Ceiling Fans / Master Bedroom / MBed Fan on High' On Here is the Alexa setting for a great room fan. Master is the same.

Funny you mention this.. my light that mysteriously comes on frequently is also a micro dimmer. Not sure what you mean by the old signal line. Can you expand? thanks.

I have scenes not folders for those items. You will need to create a scene with those three lights in them and then navigate to that scene for the UD Mobile favorite for it to "change" colors based on status. Here is are screen shots of the "Main Level" EDIT screen and Config Screens, and the devices listed under it if I click on it in normal mode (not edit mode). I do have generic folders where I have change the colors / icons such as the down arrow label "More Below". I have attached the set up for that particular folder, which literally does nothing but is a label for me. If I click on it, it just says empty. Hope that helps.

@kzboray Feel your pain and frustration. I have one light in our kitchen that will just come on for no reason. Cant even tie it to any other event. It's random both in its frequency of occurrence and the time of day. I have just learned to live with it. I have reset the switch to factory, pulled it out of scenes, put it back into scenes etc and it has lessened the frequency but it still happens on occasion. There are several other lights that will very infrequently come on as well. One set is a threeway in a shed. These switches are not part of any scene nor part of any program, and yet they will strangely be on in the middle of the night, usually about once every 2-3 months. Go figure. For the fire pit, I have a gas fireplace that in the past has come on once or twice, so I now have a cuttoff switch that I manually flip so when I am away or its summer time, there is NO way insteon can turn it on. It's in our bedroom. I also monitor the temp in the room so that if it gets too hot it will alert me to check on the fireplace. Hasn't come on though in a long time so that gremlin went away.

Wow.. amazing... it's a five minute job to install. Plug in works flawlessly. My experience for those thinking about it..... FLASHING: Once you receive the RATDGO, you will need to flash it. I struggled with this only because I chose the wrong firmware to install. Be sure to choose on the RATDGO page, the bottom choice under MQTT. Once I did that, I was able to configure the RATDGO to my wifi and to talk to the Polisy MQTT server INSTALLATION: Yesterday I turned a 5 minute job into 20 minutes of install and 90 minutes of troubleshooting only to quit and try again today. Today it took 5 minutes. The problem I had was that I misunderstood the install wiring directions and thought that all the new wires had to be spliced into the existing wires. This caused the GDO to shoot off tons of errors and not work. Last night, after I gave up, I saw some pictures on the RATDGO page that showed me that they replace the existing wires. So today it took me 2 minutes to rip everything I did yesterday out and connect two RATDGO devices to two pole barn doors. SUPER EASY WHEN YOU DO IT CORRECTLY LOL. ISY: Opened PGX, hit discover, four nodes found immediately, two doors and two lights. Opened AC and they showed up in the Node tree. Control was almost instantaneous. Programing looks excellent as well. THANKS TO @Goose66 for an excellent Plugin. This is by far the cheapest and easiest way to get control of garage doors again after the closing of MyQ API.

There really is no difference. In either case we are BOTH using a "trigger" to let the ISY know of a status that we want to monitor. The ISY does all the work. Yes you have to create variable for each phone. Yes you have to set up one simple program that INITS the variable each time it changes. But after that, the result is 100% the same. Your programs can then test each variable independently or in whatever combination you want, versus the node, to determine the status you want to react to. good luck!