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lilyoyo1

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Everything posted by lilyoyo1

  1. It would be nice. The problem is 1 change that amfg. makes to"improve"their bulb can change things. It doesn't even have to be a major change. For example, I used to use feit bulbs for my flood lights. Same bulb, same test switches now flicker around 75%. Yet everything about the packaging is the same. The same with cree. They work better now with insteon than the previous generation. I used to hear slight bugging but the last few I've tested none at all
  2. Mine prefers stuff to be on the system so mechanical timers working work. While we've been lucky so far, prior to spending allot on stuff, she but 1 to test first. Even then she knows test before decision
  3. You're welcome. There's a holiday nodeserver available. I haven't used it yet but I plan on checking it out. If it works the way I hope you won't have to disable/enable things
  4. I definitely would. I don't have all of them added to the Isy. I add as I need them. No point in using unnecessary links if they aren't active I use the outletlincs outside instead of the plugins.
  5. Yes, you can disable them. At least you can if you're running 5.0.16. I don't use plug in devices so I don't have to disable mine. I just disable the programs
  6. If it's about scheduling, I'd create a Christmas folder with them in it to keep them organized. You can then enable/disable at your convience. You could re-create your scenes with the devices all as responders and simply let isy programming control those particular scenes. That way, they don't impact the other scenes they are part of. Me personally, I'd simply get devices specifically for what I need (which is what I did) which is why all of my outlets are smart outlets.
  7. What is the setup? How are the scenes setup as well as programs
  8. Have you checked to see if the PLM is connected?
  9. I'd separate this into 2 programs. 1 to turn on and 1 to turn off. The first to turn on is simply if water is => then set fan on The second would be to turn off. If temp is < than x degrees then wait 5 minutes set fan off. This will give the water time to heat up before the isy turns the fan off
  10. Unless you have ties to Amazon higher ups, certification comes when it comes. Unfortunately companies like that move at their own place unless you're big enough to make a difference for them.
  11. I've received multiple emails regarding the delays. It's possible they went to your junk folder or the email you used when ordering is different. UDI sent emails on October 15th and November 17th. Currently it's scheduled for December 17
  12. You're welcome. Just make sure you factory reset the device first
  13. You're fine using the 6 or 8 button. They just just be in the same mode. They are the same device except in how they come programmed from the factory. The difference would be coming from a 2486 to a 2334 or vice versa.
  14. There's no right/wrong. Since the 99, I've never experienced 1 problem using this method so I'm comfortable with it. Especially when it comes to new users, I feel it's a great way to get started until they learn more complicated methods
  15. That depends on the person. I've used it for years without any issues. Ive found it's the easiest way for someone who may not have much experience to accomplish what they are trying to do without being overwhelmed as well as someone not versed in programming to pick up vs other methods
  16. You solved your own problem. With the door closed, the conditions are no longer met. If it were me, I'd create a folder and put the status of the tree in it. If status tree light is off allow the programs to run Then have a program in the folder that says If time is x to y and control door is open Then set light on wait 5 minutes turn off.
  17. Are all the conditions being met after 5 minutes? My guess is that either the door is closed or the tree is on which makes the program reevaluate
  18. The isy zigbee radio is for energy management not zigbee ha. You are better off using zwave (swap out your zigbee for zwave). Due to needing to build out a mesh network regardless of whether it's zigbee or zwave, you're better off using a wifi capable thermostat. I would go with something like the ecobee as mentioned (I use it myself) or the Venstar T8750. You can use polyglot to control both. The thing I love about the ecobee is that it works wonderfully without the Isy.
  19. I dont use that device so I cant say how it performs on 5.0.16. However, being that you are using 4.7.3 that would most likely be the reason you aren't able to have full control over that device.
  20. What exactly isn't working? What are you trying to accomplish? Posting a copy of your program will allow us to help decipher what you're trying to do At the very basic you would just saying mudroom is: If control mudroom is switched on and control mudroom not switched off, then set scene on or else turn off. With that said, since you're using a scene already with the mudroom as the controller, you don't need a program.
  21. I'm with kclenden. What you are seeing has always been the ISYs response to a device that is already a controller in a scene. It's more of a warning/alert just in case your intentions were to use it as a controller.
  22. Ok. I wasnt familiar with that particular module so I googled it and what pulled up was a rs232 interface module. I'd clear your Java cache again to make sure that's not an issue. If you've used it before then I would suspect either a mismatched UI or something similar. Can you factory reset it hen try to exclude? Which zwave card are you using
  23. Is that the Rs232 interface module?
  24. What is the device and where is it located relative to the isy. Also, what's your firmware and U/I
  25. Don't get me wrong, Google is a great system. I still have both. I swapped out my homes for Sonos ones and switched to Alexa. Amazon allows for better customization. I still have my clock and a Google hub but I had to move on.
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