lilyoyo1

It calls for magnetic or electronic dimmers so the insteon dimmer wouldn't work for you since it uses a triac.

I'd include @Michel KohanimKohanim on this as the adjust scene should work. It may be dependant on the firmware of your devices

What repeating devices are you using, how many, and location in relation to your sensors? Generally getting a lot of the errors you are receiving happens with a weak zwave network. I'm using the latest firmware with aeotec, fibaro, some, and Yale devices without issues so on the surface, the isy does work without issue with zwave products.

Did you reinstall your firmware when you flashed the new card

How Paulbates described is what I do. Each room has a scene where every device is setup as a responder. I have about 5 different programs that control those scenes.

Zwave definitely wouldn't reach the second building. The insteon Powerline signal can travel to to a mile uninterrupted so it's possible for it to be done with insteon. Personally, I'd just use a second isy and call it a day. That way, problems in 1 location doesn't affect the other

Yes that's normal as voice assistants don't know like sounding names. If you want separate control don't add the word lights to the end or the room name. Just say fan, lamp, etc I don't try to control everything. I've found doing so makes things harder as you have to come up with specific words that do not match something else. Whatever light is used most often, that is the one I control for that room. My off will turn off the whole room.

It sounds like everything is communicating properly so I would take a look to see if you configured your scene itself and not just the controller

I can see that having problems though I never had any when I used them. It's an older design whose technology and components predate LED bulbs. The 2663 works exceptionally well

I only use part numbers and yes generally they are the same as it makes ordering easier. I still test however just to avoid issues

I use the dinner for the tree and for lights in the family room. We use specific stuff on those. Everything else is standard relays

It would be nice. The problem is 1 change that amfg. makes to"improve"their bulb can change things. It doesn't even have to be a major change. For example, I used to use feit bulbs for my flood lights. Same bulb, same test switches now flicker around 75%. Yet everything about the packaging is the same. The same with cree. They work better now with insteon than the previous generation. I used to hear slight bugging but the last few I've tested none at all

Mine prefers stuff to be on the system so mechanical timers working work. While we've been lucky so far, prior to spending allot on stuff, she but 1 to test first. Even then she knows test before decision

You're welcome. There's a holiday nodeserver available. I haven't used it yet but I plan on checking it out. If it works the way I hope you won't have to disable/enable things

I definitely would. I don't have all of them added to the Isy. I add as I need them. No point in using unnecessary links if they aren't active I use the outletlincs outside instead of the plugins.

Yes, you can disable them. At least you can if you're running 5.0.16. I don't use plug in devices so I don't have to disable mine. I just disable the programs

If it's about scheduling, I'd create a Christmas folder with them in it to keep them organized. You can then enable/disable at your convience. You could re-create your scenes with the devices all as responders and simply let isy programming control those particular scenes. That way, they don't impact the other scenes they are part of. Me personally, I'd simply get devices specifically for what I need (which is what I did) which is why all of my outlets are smart outlets.

What is the setup? How are the scenes setup as well as programs

Have you checked to see if the PLM is connected?

I'd separate this into 2 programs. 1 to turn on and 1 to turn off. The first to turn on is simply if water is => then set fan on The second would be to turn off. If temp is < than x degrees then wait 5 minutes set fan off. This will give the water time to heat up before the isy turns the fan off

Unless you have ties to Amazon higher ups, certification comes when it comes. Unfortunately companies like that move at their own place unless you're big enough to make a difference for them.

I've received multiple emails regarding the delays. It's possible they went to your junk folder or the email you used when ordering is different. UDI sent emails on October 15th and November 17th. Currently it's scheduled for December 17

You're welcome. Just make sure you factory reset the device first

You're fine using the 6 or 8 button. They just just be in the same mode. They are the same device except in how they come programmed from the factory. The difference would be coming from a 2486 to a 2334 or vice versa.

There's no right/wrong. Since the 99, I've never experienced 1 problem using this method so I'm comfortable with it. Especially when it comes to new users, I feel it's a great way to get started until they learn more complicated methods