lilyoyo1

For those of us on here that also uses the isy professionally, I think part of the lack of interest is needing/wanting to be in control of the project. This includes (but not limited to) hardware used, installation, vendors, sub contractors etc. For those with the skills but does this as a hobby, it comes down to the points that jec6613 stated.

Wasn't sure what you were asking because you don't have to delete devices from the isy if you're starting over. You would simply factory reset it. When it comes to new devices, myself and many others factory reset our new devices since they are tested at the factory and may have leftover links in the them that could cause issues down the road.

There's no way to factory reset devices in bulk. Since you have to add the devices 1 by 1 to the isy, what's tedious about resetting them as you add them? If you're referring to the isy itself, simply factory reset the isy per the wiki manual.

There's no difference in regards to linking in general via the isy or manually. They both accomplish the same exact task. However, the isy will not recognize anything you do outside of it. If one device is behaving differently, most likely it needs to be configured in the scene you made with the desired ramp rate and light level you desire.

Sounds like you have the power to the fan attached to the kpl load wire which is incorrect. The fanlinc requires constant power. You need to disconnect the wire that is currently connected to the kpls red load wire. That wire then gets capped off. You'll then need to connect the wire that goes to the fanlinc to the hot wire so that it's constantly getting power. Once done, the fanlinc gets configured to the kpl for your lights and fan

I say the same thing all the time. It's easy to look innovative when your playing catch up. With the multitude of companies making zwave products you're bound to find more products out there than Insteon. With that said, real world use (overall), Insteon is equal or ahead of anything zwave. There are also more product types with zwave. Even then, I question how good they really are. Aeotec has strip lights and fibaro has their rgbw controller. Neither one comes close to anything else commercially available. Especially if using multiples together in proximity. I would take hue or lifx any day over both. Same thing comes down to thermostas. The zwave thermostat is better than insteon's. Much better. Yet when it comes down to it, there are still better alternatives out there.

All that sounds good but my concern is at what price???!!! As I've said many times, it's a race to the bottom in regards to pricing. Are people going to want to pay for what a switch would cost especially if they don't use those features. Even still, once you get beyond pricing, overly complicating a switch is just as bad as a featureless device. Take voice recognition. It's easier to program from the isy multiple devices vs 1 device at a time. Not only that, Multi billion dollar companies with the infrastructure to handle it still struggle to get things right. Can you imagine how bad it would be with a small company.

It is designed around that premise and I like it that way. Wouldn't change it one bit. I like having the peace of mind knowing should the isy fail, the important stuff will still work. I also think their design allows for much greater flexibility as it's not tied as closely to a controller.

There isn't a way to do what you want to do. The program you wrote is the way I accomplish what what you're doing. Generally speaking, when it comes to sensors, I do off commands in a separate program to allow for more freedom.

The sensors that come with thermostats such as ecobee works directly with the thermostat. Without 3rd party intervention. This means less time programming and should the system fail, your thermostat setup still works properly The features can be duplicated with a third party sensor however via programs. You would want it hardwired as most sensors that show temp will not update often enough to be as effective. The rest is simply a matter of programming your sensors to your thermostat to operate off them the way you want

Why are you adding extra complexity to this unnecessarily? Prior to starting, you really should think through the hows and whys of your actions. Look at HOW your family interacts with your lights. This will help you figure out your next steps. For example. Why does the status of the light being on matter in the grand scheme of things. If it matters, how is it turned on ? IE: does someone manually turn it on or is it turned on/off based on a timer? Personally I would break this down into multiple programs. Separate the on and off programs. With you trying to status the light and 2 separate sensors that do not talk to each other, you're wasting your time with a single program. My off program would look something like If: status of Light is on And status motion 1 is off And status motion 2 is off And (Control motion 1 is not switched on Or control motion 2 is not switched on) Then: Wait 15 minutes set light off. This doesn't need a time frame since it simply turns off the light (which you don't want on during the day anyway). Both sensors have to be showing off and not turned on via movement in order for the lights to turn off. Someone activates the sensors the program restarts. You can configure your sensors the way you want in regards to when the off is issued. I generally will do a few minutes just so it doesn't immediately flip to off but that's personal preference. If you're manually turning on your lights, you can then override the motion sensor off program. Generally when I do this, I automatically re-enable my programs. This would look something like: If control switch A is turned on and control switch A is not turned off Stop motion program Deactivate motion off program Wait 3 hrs Enable motion off program Or else: Enable motion off This will stop your motion off program for 3 hrs if it's already running and automatically re-enable it later. If you manually turn off the light, it will enable the program immediately. With both of those out the way, turning on your lights is simply a matter of your lifestyle. The hows and whys that you want the lights on

If it matters that much to know how it works, the best place to go to is directly to the mfg. The only thing any of us can do is speculate on how it works. If trust is the issue, it's a 5 dollar plug. You get what you pay for

much better. One thing that I do (doesn't have to be done) is separate my off from my motion programs. This allows me to have different programs for different situations without walking all over other programs that involve the same devices.

How is your scene configured? Is the motion sensor part of the scene? If it is, you should remove it

Polyglot isn't complex at all except for setting it up on a raspberry pi. Using Polyglot exposes your devices as if they were native devices. @simplextech mentioned developing an image that could automatically do this if you reach out to him. I'm sure he needs testers. A plug-in module works for simplicity. However a little extra work gives so many new possibilities.

You didn't give any information on what you've script purchased so no one can speak on your specific plug since we don't know what you bought. Most likely the app is automatically pulling your network information from your phone. The mfg would be able to confirm for you how it works

It sounds like it's wired incorrectly.the micromodule should be wired to receive constant hot.

It all depends on how the fan responds to its controller. If you cut power to the fan, does it start back up if left on? If it does then the micromodule will work. You can also use the sense wire that's on the micromodule when you use the fan locally so you don't lose any control. That however comes down to whether or not your remote is wireless though.

I wouldn't worry about stating if the lights are off. If they are already on it wouldn't matter if you turned them on. If you turn on the lights manually and don't want the auto off to take place, I would simply write a program that temporarily disables the motion program for the time period you choose

I would remove there module and then install the micromodule. That's actually my plan for the future when my fanlincs die since I never change the speeds

I would remove the if front lights are on from your if statement

Yes, smarthome has links to the compatible detectors on the smoke bridge webpage https://www.smarthome.com/first-alert-sco501cn-3st-onelink-carbon-monoxide-and-smoke-detector-with-voice.html

Unfortunately you picked up the wrong model. That is not compatible with the smoke bridge

Battery operated devices are "asleep" until triggered which is why you have to activate them (depending on age they should have a heartbeat that check in every 24hrs). Are you using the 99 or 994?