smokegrub

Please don't be offended, but I have mistaken the device address on more than one occasion. I would confirm it.

Thanks for the feedback.

There is no light. That is why I considered using the On/Off buttons on the KPL to control power to the fan. I know that is an "odd ball" setup, but if not used in that manner, what do I do with the On/Off buttons?

Thanks.

The wall switch for this fan controls power to the fan. A pull chain is used to control fan speed. I plan to replace the wall switch with a KPL and place a FanLinc in the fan. I will use the KPL's On and Off buttons to control power to the fan. I plan to normally leave the fan continuously powered. I would then use the buttons to control the fan's On/Off status and speed. Is there a better way to do this?

Me, too.

Yesterday, I decided to try my recorded (1Password) account number one more time with Amazon. To my surprise, the password was accepted. Moreover, when I completed forget/discover all devices were recognized. Then, without having to enable/disable as you email directed, my spokens were accepted by my Echo's. Did you do anything in the background regarding my situation? If not, this is just another bizarre moment in my Alexa experience. Now, as soon as I get the time, I need to address my second portal account, Wolf Creek.

The normal password I use for this account would nt be accepted. I tried a difference password for an account that existed long ago and was not being used. That one worked. But, when I clicked enable I got a message about not being able to open a browser window. Everything was working fine until your update. I checked out the portal and that is working fine. It appears that somehow my Amazon account for the Chesapeake portal may have been deleted to otherwise rendered inaccessible. I have not yet tested the Wolf Creek Amazon account.

Ok, did the steps again and the Disable option does not exist! It is Enable only.

Given my message to you indicated that the last step-in your email failed (Enter your ISY Portal user and password (In the ISY Portal Authorization dialog), how do I do that?

Benoit: I followed the steps to the Enable step. I clicked Disable then on Enable. I entered my Amazon User credentials then my Password for the subject portal. The Password was rejected. I then entered an older password and that was accepted!!! I was not asked for the ISY Portal Authorization. I opened Settings and all my devices were there. I selected Forget Devises and Discover Devices . All appeared well but Alexa still will not respond to spokens. Something obviously went wrong at the Portal Authorization step. Note: I have two portals.

A day later and all is working normally. Nothing done, same process followed. This must be part of a conspiracy to drive me closer to the edge! : )

Thanks, Paul. I will give that a try. Heretofore, there has been no problem whatsoever and response time has been instantaneous. I did, however, recently upgrade the OS on my Mac from Yosemite to High Sierra and install an SSD.

I tried accessing using the portal and now I "see" the status of devices and can control them using the Admin Console. Strange!

Yesterday morning when I accessed a remotely located ISY using the portal the status of devices did not display. Even when I attempted to turn on a device it failed. I then accessed the ISY with MobiLinc and the status of devices displayed correctly and I could turn devices on and off. A bt later in the day I accessed the ISY using the portal and all was well. Today, I had the same experience. I can "see" my devices and programs in the Admin Console but cannot interact with them. I will try the portal again later and see if the problem resolves itself as it did yesterday. Are others experiencing this unusual behavior?

Assuming your question is whether or not there is a way to view and manage your ISY and several cameras using IOS, I suggest you check out MobiLinc. I have used it for years and have been well-pleased.

I have found that batteries make a huge difference. I use lithium ion and a year + is the norm.

My thanks, guys. You have confirmed my assessment. Will proceed.

I have a toggle switch in the bathroom that controls lights above the mirror and operates in strict on/off mode. When I pulled the switch to replace it with an Insteon on/off switch (2477s) i found the following: Two separate “hot” black wires (line) on the bottom terminal and a single black wire (load) at the top terminal. An apparent ground wire (bare copper) unattached in the box. A bundle of white wires stuffed in the back of the box and unattached. What do I have to attach to the Insteon switch given that all that is wired to the traditional switch are 2 line wires and a load wire? I have the wiring diagram but I would like confirmation before I plow ahead.

Thanks.

I just thought of something, the sensor may need a shim to improve the reliability of the button press. Thoughts?

I have six of these devices with three each located in two homes, each with an ISY. One has malfunctioned and it is more than 300 miles from where I will spend the winter. Today, that device sent 75 emails falsely indicating it was open. I had to disable the device in the ISY to stop it. If I were there, I would put the device into linking mode and try to resolve the issue. Is there anything I can do to remotely get it into linking mode? I feel confident there, isn't but I have to ask.

I manage the remote reset of a Insteon wireless stat by powering it through a dual band device. I cut the power, wait a couple of minutes and repower. I use that stat solely for the purpose of monitoring temperature. If other Insteon stats are as unreliable as mine I would have to recommend against it.

For what its worth, I just completed setting up a tabletop enclosure with a KPL. Works beautifully!

: )