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Everything posted by larryllix
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IS will not parse a response so depending on what you mean by a "webcall" it isn't going to happen. You can send various TCP and UDP protocols but other than recieveing a 200 or 400 style code, no.
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IIRC the lithium batteries were 3 volts. Alkaline and zinc carbon are 1.5v. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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Did you measure the voltage of the new battery before installation? What does a new battery measure at? Where did you get the batteries for the LDs?
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No idea there. I do not have one (yet?). but I see the Molex connector pins and they just pull straight out. Pry one end with a plastic tool until it moves slightly. The danger here, is you pull straight up and one end lets go, bending the pins on the opposite end. Crack the bond at both ends first and then pull straight up. Actually, to prove the problem you can just left each end 1/32" and then push back down, wiping the contact surfaces. If it works, this is the problem. Less risk and should prove the process before getting too technical. Keep your body and hands static discharged, without wool or nylon clothing. I usually ignore that advice and use equipotential techniques. That means one hand is kept in contact with the PCB ground plane at all times. No differences in voltage can be present = no static zaps of the electronics. Then let go of the big PCB foil on the edge last. I assume you are somewhat electronics experienced.
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Bad Zwave board or even those Molex connectors I saw on the edge of the board oxidising? People using SS-50 bus (SWTP) computers years ago, would lose their stuff seeing those used again. If the firmware constantly tries to access the Zwave board unsuccessfully this may explain the sluggishness. Take the board out, wipe the pins down with good alcohol or contact cleaner, and plug back in. EDIT: LOL. I just noticed your location...salt water atmosphere? If the above works, wipe a very fine thin silicone grease (spray on a clean rag) on the pins before re-insertion EDIT2: Do NOT hot plug or unplug this board!!
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Also, as a troubleshooting tool, the admin console has a search function you can use on your programs to search for a particular device, variable, or even a raw piece of text. This can assist with finding the usage of a device in some old progam from ages ago, you may have forgotten about.
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What type of dimming / switching mechanism is controlling them? IIRC Insteon bulbs will turn on with every power blink. Many other controllers do this as well. This was to accommodate the people that want to be able to switch the bulb on from the wall switch by power cycling at the switch. My Hue bulbs do that (grrrrrrrr..) but I have programs in ISY to shut them down upon booting up. You just have to stare into a room with a few hundred watts of LED white light for a few minutes in the middle of the night after each power failure.... frequently in the rural. Some bulb types are now user-programmable for what they will do in a power blink. EDIT: I see you are using a KPL and this probably doesn't apply. Have you checked your programs looking for ones that are set to "Run at Startup"?
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ahhhhh..Good point! Never thought of it that way.
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UDI reported they investigated using an RPi for ISY in the future but there are some licensing concerns that inhibited the idea from developing any further. It seems RPi isn't as open as people think.
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It was announced over your Amazon devices a few days ago. Perhaps you were not there to hear it?
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Alexa, Irrigation Control, Timers (and my wife)
larryllix replied to No Pressure's topic in Amazon Echo
An easy remember could be based on one hour. The percent is a bit of a turnoff but...... Alexa turn on sprinkler to 20% = 20% x 60 minutes = 12 minutes. -
We always tried to keep the design EEs in the closet. Usually two different coloured pencils could keep them out of trouble, Everytime they got out there was trouble and we had to call the EE control to net them again. To be fair, troubleshooting is not their training or experience, typically and we relied on some of them to haggle with management financial types over what colour RAM should be installed in the new systems. (Hint! The blue ones have slipperier electrons, making them much higher speed) IIRC Insteon was designed around dimmer noise. Based on X10 they changed the signal from the front porch after the powerline zero crossing to the back porch. This was to avoid the dimmer noise on the voltage rise up where dimmer switches switch, and onto the voltage drop down just before the zero crossing where most powerline waveforms are quieter. This has it's own challenges. ie. The sinewave frequency has to be known (N.Am. vs Oz. and Euro, accent dependant :)) and it has to be timed from the previous zero crossing. 2nd harmonics can shift the zero crossing making timing problems. These are huge in HID lighting (sodium vapour, mercury vapour). 3rd harmonics can do the same but can't remember where you would get them anymore, except from electronic powers supplies. Switching powers supplies can produce all different problems depending on how they rough control the higher voltage input. In the end the simulcast broadcast repeat has it's own problems. They all have to be synchronised to not cause cancellations and if each Insteon repeating device has a different zero crossing distortion device near it, they can make their own problems with each other. ahhh new feature! Mesh lock. When you get one that worked, press the button is an S-O-S pattern.
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OP stated "incandescent" but Yes. LEDs can be a huge problem with dimmers. I think we are hearing less and less of that with newer bulbs here though.
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Just reading your OP and this sounds like you have a tuned circuit on that leg that the noise being generated (somewhere) causes a resonance at that tuned frequency. I worked in metering for years and we found certain customers at the end of 14kV lines would blow high voltage fuses on the metering transformers twice per year. Once a new high-voltage customer was added to the end of the line the problem would typically go away. Some electrical noise will resonate in certain length of line and load combinations that tend to amplify the noise and it will focus on one spot as seen by standing wave demo tanks where the reflected waves synchronise in one particular place. ie. where the amplitudes become additive. As an experiment you could try adding a temporary piece of NMD 14/2 cable onto the end of the circuit (hanging in the air or on the floor) to see if you can change the tuning of this circuit. Alternatively plug in a heavy load on a receptacle in the same circuit and see if you can change the whole dynamic. Good luck. It sounds like your troubleshooting is better than your EE and electrician.
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I believe Benoit, writer of the ISY Portal here, opened a ticket with GH a month ago or longer, , and has heard nothing back either. My GH app accepts the account and connects to my ISY Portal and sends through my vocal commands (as best as two words out of each vocal can function) but the reciprocal direction doesn't work for me. I believe GH has to reset my permission between ISY Portal and GH. GH seems to be refusing my ISY Portal (one direction only) and so far GH support is being stupid about it. Yeah, now that Alexa units are acting as smart as GH units, without ISY access, they are mostly useless now. After a week of trying to reset everything and start over a dozen times I gave up. I may try some more again using a new account. I am planning to give them away to somebody that uses their direct cloud connections only to home devices.
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That is only Google's memory of what you registered before. The reason I ask is because my ISY portal will not download to GH anymore. When I disconnect and reinstall any GH device I was getting the same problem. That seems to have gone away by itself, but I still cannot edit and update from the ISY Portal. I can control some devices but my setup is not working well since I copied my Alexa devices and GH will not do most of them. I wondered if this was happening to you also. After waiting for a month for an answer from GH support team. They replied. "We cannot help you" It seems Google went through another round of security update on all their systems and many older setups are just not compatible anymore.
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Welcome to the forums! What happens when your download your setup from the ISY Portal? Does it succeed at downloading to the GH service?
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Look for "factory reset" in the manual, not the little piece of paper you get with them.
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As per Paul above, was the device factory reset before adding into your Insteon system upon first implementation?
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Once they get flaky the batteries need replacing anyway. I gave up on detecting the batteries are low and usually just watch for the multipe flashing LED or jusr lack of function now. I still record and keep a list of reported low batteries in a variable though, for whan I get a round tuit.
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That should work fine unless the lights are being turned on from somewhere else other than the switch itself. If it occasionally doesn't work then you may have a comm noise problem.
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For the future, repeat repeats lines below itself only. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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Typically you have to use Control Switched on which watches the Switch paddle and not the light dimmer circuit, as Status does. Wait timers are retriggerable. Post your program. Right click on the program title in the program tree and select "copy to clipboard". Paste here.
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Welcome to the forums! I believe the java you refer to is embedded into the browser and yes that is being discontinued, across the board. However java being used by any operating system is not related to the browser. Admin Console runs in that java system and does not require a browser. Having said that, I have not been able to get the admin console to run under any java system except Windows 7 and 10.
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A query of the MS in a program will clear the lowBat signal. I am not sure if doing it manually will as you need to put the MS into linking mode and that would likely clear it anyway. Unfortunately you have to access the MS and open the back to do it.