larryllix

Looks like it should work What are the On, Off and timer settings you are using inside the synchrolinc?

My synchroLinc has no order of calibration, or calibration settings. It has an On setting, a power hysteresis (I forget the exact nomenclature) setting and a delay timer. Both the power Off hysteresis, and the delay timer are different forms of hysteresis, one being by power in Watts and the other being by time. If you had a device that drew 100 Watts when On and 10 Watts off, you would set typically the On setting about 60 Watts (60%?) and the Off hysteresis setting about 30-40 Watts (20%) making it sense Off at anything below 60 - 40 = 20 Watts. After that appears to work satisfactorily, you would then add a small time delay so multiple triggers would never happen unless the synchrolinc was defective and not functioning correctly. This has been discussed many time in different threads previously. I know they are not available any more, and mine needs new power supply caps, apparently Have these units changed in the last two years?

The synchrolinc already has a hysteresis delay timer built in. An additional wait should not be necessary in an ISY program. You cannot have a program disable itself and then re-enable itself. When a program is disabled, it stops processing lines. The suggested program does not display it's own name. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

See post #3 & #8 Mine has no problem running the admin console either. It is the creation of all the symbols, avatars and icon in java.

It's not so much the download speed, which is somewhat slow also, but only a single background task for ISY while it still performs REST and event triggered tasks, and shared the Ethernet port, maybe not too bad. IMHO it is the slow java package on your computer drawing every box, icon, and avatar first. This is apparent on the later firmware versions as the admin console boot now displays what it is grinding on. My faster machine doesn't take 1/4 of the time but it is still a painful wait. I don't use the admin console remotely as I cannot see any proofs of my efforts and admin console java just goes away frequently as java decides you don't need it for some reason. The quest is on to get UDI to switch over the HTML5 but they have been busy with Zwave which surprised their work load with so many varying (maybe obsolete) devices. You should see my Palm Pilot load it!

What speed and number of cores is your computer you are running the java based admin console on? Mine takes about 5-6 minutes to load on a single core 2.2 GHz CPU. The java rendering icons grinds it to a standstill almost. Try the nonsecure http port access for ISY. You are on a LAN behind your router firewall anyway.

I have LED strips that show a glow at 1%. They used switched PWM and go down linearly until 0%.

Another thing to note is that Control switched only detects human touch sources whereas status detects any source affecting the dimmer. So it depends on what you want to detect as a trigger. One more - just some gottchas for down the road Control Switched On is good for creating retriggerable timers. Once a dimmer is at 100%, there is no detection of Paddle Tap Up any more with Status (level change) detection. With Control Switched ON it can retrigger the Wait timer and start over each time.

Check your links between ISY and devices. Has to be a confused signal. You know what those are like.

My thoughts were if you are doing a slow ramp fingering you got contact bounce looking like a Fast On of Fast Off.

Do you have delayed writing to battery devices option turned on? Have you put your MSes in Linking mode and wrote the updates to them. Mine took almost ten minutes each to dump the ISY cache into them. Every MS motion sensed would cause a massive Insteon data storm for several minutes. After dumping the cache out, and disabling the delayed write option all is running fast again. I had lights responding 20-40 seconds later with direct scene control to the MSes..

Paddles or Keys do not have a status. As posted elsewhere Not Off will never be true. 'Off' will be when the event happens. Not cause the Else to run because it is now False while being evaluated from the event. In your case posted If control switched Not Off Then do A Else do B 'do A' can never happen. 'do B' can.

I had an OnOff Module (plug-in for humidifier) randomly send out a Scene On code when operated, instead of an 'On' ACKnowledgement. A simple power cycle cured that one, after months of sleuthing a phantom "All On" with some recognisable pattern intelligence.

OK, wrong person to ask, The "delete All" was in the original Alexa App in both the Android and the Webpage version. Now, with the newer Alexa app, the app doesn't give full functionality on my mobile Android 4.4, or in any browser I have been using since, Amazon decided to obsolete users not supporting recent google advances. I would have to borrow my wife's phone to see if that feature still exists. UPDATE: The "Delete All" option is still there in the RPi Chomium rendition of the Amazon webpage app. https://alexa.amazon.com/spa/index.html#appliances

Good catch! This may be a desirable feature for the OP. Each time the gate is changed open or closed, Else will run resetting the Else timer, effectively making the algorithm 5 minutes after the last gate change the next open will notify. Gate traffic will extend the time.

In the past every so often, after playing with the setup, you would have to go to the bottom of the device list (In alexa app) and "delete all", then rediscover or you got duplicate names and trouble. The trend today is to grab onto everything you can in a database. As a piece of software, they think it makes it look smarter.

iR control? My grandfather used to talk about that technology. Just kidding. I was going to go that route with the iR Insteon plug-in, but I could never get it to work with ISY. After finding the two LED transmitters wired into opposite polarity and fixing that, I gave up a few ISY versions ago.Of course, when you buy things from SH into Canada, you are at your own risk and defects just become garbage. Spent some bigger bucks and bought a Network capable A/V receiver. That was fairly easy except for telling Google Home it was in the Gathering Room. Never tell google anything. It loves to turn off my receiver with the lights now. Soon to be booted to the curb as SkyNet continues to grow constantly Now I have to figure out the encrypted jargon for a Samsung TV

No network connectivity? Will you use iR to control them? Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Why do you want to talk too a RPi for this? You can control most A/V receivers directly from NRs. I wrote python3 code to receive GET requests on my RPi from NRs that I have posted in another thread somewhere.

I find a similar situation as Paul with the humidty figures. I constantly hear people say their humidity is about 50-60%. I think in a calibrated world this is way-off-centre. I try to keep my humidity between 36% and 44%, set on my ecobee3 and ecobee4. My humidifier could run 100% of the time and I would never be able to keep it over 40% using about 10-15 gallons of water per day. If my humidity approaches 40% my windows would be raining and running water onto the floors in the winter. Double pane with low-E coatings and argon gas filled. I have no wired humidifier but use ISY to interrogate my ecobee4 for it's setpoints, and current humidity. Then I run my floor humidifier co-ordinated with air-handler fan cycles. This is also co-ordinated with my HRV ventilations system. They all get pulses of long or short run time based on the requirements of the setpoints. The HRV ventilator cycle length is based on whether the humidity or dryness outside will benefit the house interior and also if the temperature outside will benefit the inside air temperature. This means that when the stat does a setback and the air outside will give free cooling, it get it. If the stat brings the setpoint up in the morning and the air temperature will benefit the inside temperature it will get it from outside via the HRV. All these cycles are based on ISY's knowledge of the house temperature and humidity from my ecobee4. This worked just as well with my Venstar T7800 stat previously, also.

I don't see the homework issue as a problem. For math they gave to formulate their problem into a prper sentence and usually understand what tgey are asking first. It becomes easier to just get the answer out of their head. Great for advanced things like squares and cubes. Night Time stories and music are great The intercom and emergency phone dialing features can be nice too. I already bought my 5 year old granddaughter a Dot and my 4 year old grandson is getting a Dot in March. Only because GH was too expensive at the time. GH is better for the non-techie AFAIC. Just don't allow vocal purchasing. I think it is stupid to order something blind anyway.

Here is the program where I use the two decimal places just for looks. MM.DD The three time triggers are just insurance against a power loss or me playing with the program during the time. Note that the scratchpad variable can be Integer but the resultant variable MM.DD must be State in order to trigger the programs that depend on it. Also you need to set two decimal places for them. Set MM.DD - [ID 00B8][Parent 0006] If Time is 12:00:01AM Or Time is 3:00:01AM Or Time is 6:00:01AM Then $sISY.DayOfWeek = [Current Day of Week] $sISY.DayOfMonth = [Current Day of Month] $ISY_Date.scratchpad = [Current Day of Month] $ISY_Date.scratchpad /= 100 $ISY_Date.scratchpad += [Current Month (Jan=1, Feb=2, etc.)] $sISY.MM.DD = $ISY_Date.scratchpad Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') And this is how the usage looks. The programs do not care what day of the week or year it is. I have many programs for other devices that use the same variable for dates ranges independent of the year. Until V5 I was changing my program times every year but usually when the time comes it was forgotten about and had to be reset after the cycle should have started. Xmas Lights.9' tree - [ID 00BA][Parent 00C0] If ( Time is Sunset + 15 minutes And ( $sISY.MM.DD >= 11.15 Or $sISY.MM.DD <= 1.06 ) ) Or ( Time is 5:00:00AM And $sISY.MM.DD >= 12.24 And $sISY.MM.DD <= 12.26 ) Then Wait 1 second Set 'RecRm Christmas Tree' On Wait 6 hours Run Program 'Xmas Lights.9' tree' (Else Path) Else Wait 1 second Set 'RecRm Christmas Tree' Off

I have 3 Dots, an ecobee4, an Echo and three Google Home minis. The GH minis are a lot smoother for looks and AI but so far, the minis are trouble due to the AI making assumptions.. If they don't understand the device you stated, they make something up, even if it is every device in the house. Alexa makes up some excuse about multiple units and asks for a repeat and never guesses. At this point I have almost give up on the minis for HA. "Turn on Red bed", "Turn on Red bedroom", "Turn on Red Lights", and "Turn On Red bedroom lights", can all get various devices that contain Red in the name and usually all 9 of them will get triggered. "Turn off bedroom lights" gets every colour program and white lights in that room as it assumes I mean everything with bedroom in the name. You can see ISY run through flashing most of the rainbow and white before turning the string off. duh! With Alexa. "Turn On the Red lights" gets one room and "Turn On red bedroom lights" gets another room as they are two different programs. For looks, smoothness of operation, sound, function and online AI, the Google minis are far ahead but that AI gap is closing.

The best is still as I posted and I still use it with a slight modification. I use two decimal places now so that the value becomes MM.DD, or 12.25 for Christmas. I can post that later if needed. Just follow the same link. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17157-more-flexibility-in-schedule-setup/?p=152606

Only when I am alone. Sometimes I use blue, purple, mauve, or indigo, but never green. I have a program turn them off in 2 hours. Just-in-case.