Jump to content

larryllix

Members
  • Posts

    14889
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by larryllix

  1. I have discovered that Google Home can only understand two words and does not understand three word in a phrase. "Hey google! Turn on red lights"...Turns on red lights in Gathering room....as per vocal in ISY Portal "Hey google! Turn on red bedroom lights"...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more red LED systems in gathering room. Google Home makes assumptions that other devices matching two words of the three word phrase vocals are the same grouping "Hey google! Turn on bedroom red" ...turns on just the red bedroom lights and it echoes the correct phrase from the ISY portal translation database ..."Turning on red bedroom lights" Google Home finds the most closely named device and operates the correct device despite the vocal not matching it. Google Home is using only the first two words of my vocal and making assumptions on the third key word.. 1. Is this a deficiency in the ISY portal software or something that Google is causing? 2. Is there a way to turn off this Google Home grouping assumption stupidity in the app somewhere?
  2. This problem has been getting worse as time goes on. I have just added a third Home Mini along with my 3 x Dots, 1 Echo and an ecobee4 (Alexa). The problem seems to be Google Home only listens to the first and last vocal words of the device. Alexa has and always works fine using the same vocal syntax. In the past, I discovered I had to change my vocal "All Lights" because GH determines this is every device in my home (despite my definitions), including the rear doorbell, workshop dust collector, water well pump and a few other gooodies. Not a good scenario and almost useless, if not dangerous. Then I discovered that any rooms I had assigned to devices in the Google app may be assuming the word "lights" (plural), means every light in that room grouping. (that I think Google mistakenly called a Room instead of a group?). I had to create a ridiculous room name "Unassigned", because like most Google AI, it will never "let go" of an idea leaving the user frustrated with assumptions, they don't want. After 2-3 hour of searching, I couldn't find a way to actually remove an item from a room once assigned. It knows more about what I want, than I do, I suppose Anyway, here is the latest google Assumptive Intelligence. with about 20 different devices involved that it thinks I want operated together. All devices are only operated by ISY programs. Alexa. Turn on red lights..Turns on red coloured LEDs in Gathering room...works perfectly Alexa. Turn on red bedroom lights. Turns on red coloured LEDs in bedroom...works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red lights...Turns on red lights in Gathering room....works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red bedroom lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in Gathering room to red. Interestingly enough. There are no cross programs or confusion in ISY or the portal. It's just Google making ridiculous AI assumptions again. As a test I tried this, reformatting ISY portal vocals. Hey google! Turn on red lights...Turns on red lights in Gathering room....works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red bed lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in gathering room to red. Hey google! Turn on bedroom red lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in gathering room to red. This is being repeated for every colour, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, mauve as well as white sequences every light in both rooms through every program controlling the whole colour spectrum. So with Hey google! Turn on white bedroom lights....9 LED string take turn flashing through 7-8 colours and then end up with a random colour or white. Note: These are direct devices but rather all programs, one for each colour in each room. As much as I think the google home minis have a much smoother feel, look, sound, and operation than amazon Dots, google's AI drives me crazy trying to tell me what I want. grrrrrrrr... Short of throwing a brick through google factory's front door here, anybody have any suggestions? Even how to delete all these things and start over. Somehow I doubt the app will ever forget anything no matter how hard I try to delete it and/or reformat my mobile devices, or even smack the pres in the head as he comes out the door of the google factory.
      • 1
      • Like
  3. This problem has been getting worse as time goes on. I have just added a third Home Mini along with my 3 x Dots, 1 Echo and an ecobee4 (Alexa). The problem seems to be Google Home only listens to the first and last vocal words of the device. Alexa has and always works fine using the same vocal syntax. In the past, I discovered I had to change my vocal "All Lights" because GH determines this is every device in my home (despite my definitions), including the rear doorbell, workshop dust collector, water well pump and a few other gooodies. Not a good scenario and almost useless, if not dangerous. Then I discovered that any rooms I had assigned to devices in the Google app may be assuming the word "lights" (plural), means every light in that room grouping. (that I think Google mistakenly called a Room instead of a group?). I had to create a ridiculous room name "Unassigned", because like most Google AI, it will never "let go" of an idea leaving the user frustrated with assumptions, they don't want. After 2-3 hour of searching, I couldn't find a way to actually remove an item from a room once assigned. It knows more about what I want, than I do, I suppose Anyway, here is the latest google Assumptive Intelligence. with about 20 different devices involved that it thinks I want operated together. All devices are only operated by ISY programs. Alexa. Turn on red lights..Turns on red coloured LEDs in Gathering room...works perfectly Alexa. Turn on red bedroom lights. Turns on red coloured LEDs in bedroom...works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red lights...Turns on red lights in Gathering room....works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red bedroom lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in Gathering room to red. Interestingly enough. There are no cross programs or confusion in ISY or the portal. It's just Google making ridiculous AI assumptions again. As a test I tried this, reformatting ISY portal vocals. Hey google! Turn on red lights...Turns on red lights in Gathering room....works perfectly Hey google! Turn on red bed lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in gathering room to red. Hey google! Turn on bedroom red lights...turns on red bedroom lights and then turns on 8 more LED systems in gathering room to red. This is being repeated for every colour, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, mauve as well as white sequences every light in both rooms through every program controlling the whole colour spectrum. So with Hey google! Turn on white bedroom lights....9 LED string take turn flashing through 7-8 colours and then end up with a random colour or white. Note: These are direct devices but rather all programs, one for each colour in each room. As much as I think the google home minis have a much smoother feel, look, sound, and operation than amazon Dots, google's AI drives me crazy trying to tell me what I want. grrrrrrrr... Short of throwing a brick through google factory's front door here, anybody have any suggestions? Even how to delete all these things and start over. Somehow I doubt the app will ever forget anything no matter how hard I try to delete it and/or reformat my mobile devices, or even smack the pres in the head as he comes out the door of the google factory.
  4. Except about 20% of the price of Amazon.
  5. Stusviews has had some luck with this. Look for another thread in the search engine.
  6. This is one feature I always like to install. The just-in-case safety lines. Spot on!
  7. I don't know why any designer would use these old Molex style pins for a PCB edge connector, anymore. People using the old SS-50 bus (SouthWest Technical Products) based computer motherboards, know what I am talking about. After about a year of use it was very common to have to unplug and replug these connectors every few weeks to wipe the contact metals clean again. This was with 1-2 MHz CPU signals. I hate to think about GHz speeds using this junk. Then came the contact cleaner spray and silicone, anti-oxide spray coatings and then eventually polishing the oxide away, and garbage. Gold plating was tried with much better luck but became too expensive. I see the ISY Zwave assesory PCB uses these connectors as well as the GPIO bus on RPIs.
  8. Welcome to the UDI forums!!! I would get a proper direct wired thermostat system for this application. The difference between 102F and 105F is from luke-warm to scalding feeling, where you will not be able to get in the tub. The Insteon stat will never handle this accurately enough. If you want to monitor and use ISY based setbacks etc.. I would recommend using a CAO Wireless Tag that comes with the remote probe. There is currently another thread regarding this matter in the forum. Once you purchase a Tag manager, other Tags can be added for so many applications with ISY. The kumoapp code for this is posted in another thread on the forums.
  9. Find the thread with the CAO Tags information. I posted a kumoapp program that you can drop into the kumoapp. This will take some talking you through it but you can do it.
  10. You need to write your program in the Else section then you can use. Hey Google! Turn Fan Off.
  11. Create scenes with every combination you desire and operate the scenes. I would create programs with each combination of devices and operate the programs. It is less likely to constantly lose Insteon links in the devices when using so many via the scene method and the lighting could be staged with slight delays if desired.
  12. I find that much granularity is useless even. 100%, 40%, 20% and 12% or whatever the lowest the bulbs go are about all that is needed. 80% could be added to avoid overheating LED bulbs that are mounted upside down. Yes! they will burn your hands when you unscrew them from a ceiling pot light (US = tophat = can light)
  13. Working at -20C last week.
  14. I didn't know you could automate apouses, at all. Mine can certainly create a scene though. Alexa! Bring me a beer!
  15. It has been reported many times on this forum that the PLM link report will stop as soon as some data traffic happens. This means that any count with a low count may mean nothing. People pushed the idea of successive tries at the link reporting methods and not putting any value in the actual reports. Try it again, a few more times, in an Insteon quiet house.
  16. Exactly. If they would have forced a temperature update every 60 seconds (300 on batteries) it would act as a heartbeat and a more accurate update for the primary parameter wanted from any stat. SmartiePants doesn't seem too versed in protocols. It's hard to believe they even designed Insteon. I doubt they did, or the mastermind left years ago.
  17. Thanks you for supporting our side! :) You need a vocal input product. Once setup users get familiar with the vocal techniques and start to use them. My wife partially hates HA but she knows it is my hobby and doesn't bark too much but she has learned form my vocals to instruct Alexa to get what she wants mostly.
  18. While I believe the point about the difference in systems was totally missed here, having a system that performs both well, would be nice. I have to agree about HA. To push the example to a ridiculous extreme....If we don't want home automation, why buy a thermostat? Just buy a HVAC switch and turn your HVAC on and off as needed. I've seen a lot of people that use their stats as a switch. One particular trade type comes to mind that should know better, from my experiences. BTW:With smart stats, amazon devices, and Google Home devices, I do NOT operate my stat from any of it. I don't even have the control connected. Stats are automatic and should never need manipulating manually. I am very picky about my comfort. If the temp is too high or too low by 1 degree C, I am sweatng or chilled. OTOH: Many like the HA, they just don't want the challenge of setting it up from scratch, so they substitute convenient manual control methods.
  19. The humidifier companies formerly promoted themselves by claiming you would save money on your heating bill due to making you feel more comfortable at a lower temperature. I talked to a guy years back on Usenet groups that threatened legal action on a big HVAC company, and they stopped advertising that.
  20. The Tag part could be left inside a pocket glued to the outside of the cover and the probe just penetrating the cover to the inside through a small pinhole that should seal behind the insertion. IIRC the probes are just 1-Wire temperature probes that you can buy on ebay for $0.99 usually. easily replaced except for the moulded plug they use.
  21. Somehow this program got deleted and I had to recreate it. This is my latest using NodeLink input from the Ecobee current weather reporting. Sync.Temp.out.average - [ID 00FE][Parent 0101] If $sTag3.temp < 45 Or 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature <= 45.0° Or $sWC8.outTemp.raw < 450 Then $TempAvg.sum = 0 $TempAvg.contrib.cnt = 0 // sum inputs within dev.max of past average and keep count // start with sensor 1, if within deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.deviation /= 10 $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.sum /= 10 $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // add in sensor 2, if within deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // add in sensor 3, if wihin deviation allowed $TempAvg.deviation = $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation < 0 $TempAvg.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $TempAvg.deviation <= $cTEMPAVG.DEV.ALLOWED $TempAvg.sum += $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.contrib.cnt += 1 $TempAvg.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times // none worked, get all new Repeat While $TempAvg.contrib.cnt is 0 $TempAvg.sum = $sWC8.outTemp.raw $TempAvg.sum /= 10 $TempAvg.sum += $sTag3.temp $TempAvg.sum += 'Dining Room / GathRm Stat / Current Weather' Temperature ° $TempAvg.contrib.cnt = 3 Repeat 1 times // finish calcs with what we got $TempAvg.sum /= $TempAvg.contrib.cnt $sHouse.outTemp = $TempAvg.sum $sHouse.outTemp Init To $TempAvg.sum Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')
  22. I try to keep my humidity above 36% in the winter. This is almost impossible if my HRV runs more than a few minutes per day in this -15C degree weather. If I have ISY manage it about as tight as I can get I only have to cart less than 3-4 gallons of water per day for my humidifier. When I built my house many people commented if it was vapour sealed as tight as I have it I would never need a central humidifier, (so common here) on my furnace. I made the mistake of listening to them and now do not have enough room around my air-handler to add a humidifier. With an HRV removing new paint and other household fumes for the last ten years, the vapour barrier being enough to keep in humidity is BS. I have co-ordination programs in ISY to maximise the efficiency by running ventilation, humidity and HRV simultaneously. MWaremans logging programs have helped me immensely to debug what I was doing, all inside the ISY spare memory space. These ISY programs have saved ma a lot of heating bill size as well as reduced my water hauling for the humidifier, and maximised home comfort. I use ISY to compensate the thermostat when the outside home chill factor is below a certain temperature factor, by adding in the square of the wind speed times a factor, to the difference between the average temperature outside (three sensors) and the setpoint inside. This adds 0.5C to the stat setpoint temporarily so that cold periods are not felt. My window panes only condense slightly at below -16C. I don't adjust my humidity for my house structure. I have extreme vapour barrier and insulation. The housing inspector told me I didn't need the vapour barrier with 2 inches of foam on the outside, lap sealed. The double vapour barrier worries me somewhat but the wood was well dried and the outside seal isn't sealed on the top plate of the wood construction. Yes. You can drive yourself crazy worrying about all the things you don't know about. Ignorance is bliss usually
  23. Try plugging the LampLinc into the same circuit. You may have new noisemaker in your wiring. Linking takes a lot more data transfer than a simple report an event data length. More chances to fail.
  24. Somewhere in the archives of this forum I reported the reading from my 2441ZTH stat below the freezing point. IIRC the temperature reported down to about -3C (26F) but since the binary values are only for positive interpretation the figures became 250 counts and appeared as +125.0C For you binary mathematicians this is easy for one byte aritmetic (250 - 28 ) / 2 = - 2.5 degrees C. At about -3.0 C the electronics crapped out and just stopped sending Insteon. (It couldn't even cry for help but I may have heard faint whimpers ) Hopefully you will know before that ever happens. You need some better house insulation if you get those gore -b Al ly warmed temperatures He doesn't live in Canada, so it's not a problem here.
  25. Several times I have been away with my tenps set down to 10C and it takes about two weeks to achieve that low temperature in the house, with our typical -10 to -20C outside temperatures. OTOH: I have slab heating in the basement and it leaks somewhat into the ground taking several days to come up to temp for normal heating, so the cool down will be longer also. (large thermal mass) When I was building, I spent a winter with no ceiling drywall, no vapour barrier and no insulation, but only 2" of styrofoam on the outside walls. No hydro or NG yet, and no heating attempted either. My future sump pit (no concrete on the basement floor) froze for one day and then thawed the next day, by itself. Now that is in the ground also.We don't get the sun like you do out west of here so not as much radiant solar.
×
×
  • Create New...