larryllix

I suspect there was a time in history where the metal pipe and boxes were used as a grounding system and no copper conductor was required. Later this became outlawed and a separate grounding conductor was required. In @Brian H comment above we used to raise the 208v up to 216v in an attempt to make it more compatible with240v appliances (stove burners and baseboard heaters run too cool, etc..) but that made the 120v phases run at 125vac. Still within utility specs, but sure makes a lot of complaints about high voltage until people get better lightbulbs. Many bulbs didn't like the 125vac on 120vac rated bulbs and popped them after a few days to a few weeks. I am not sure how it affected the new LED bulbs. They came after my time.

I had a receptacle On/Off module go erratic and produced an Insteon Scene On command occasionally, when sent a simple On or Off. It happened about 7 or 8 times over a few years or more. Since I recognised the lighting pattern, I always thought it was just a bad program somewhere, but could never identify it's source. Eventually, I was examining my Log and found some bad packets from this particular module instead of the ACK expected from it. The time coincided with the latest erratic Insteon scene occurrence. In a first ditch effort to nail it down further, I simply unplugged the on/off module and plugged it back in again. I could not ever figure out why power failures didn't do the same thing, but years after (as I type this), I just realised that the difference may have been the inductive motor load I had plugged into it. When I did it manually, there would have been no inductive load (humidifier) attached. After power cycling the module, it never happened again for about the last 5 years. I post this example because I believe ALL ONs are just another form of Insteon Scenes, that can be produced by any module in your system. Other Insteon modules could then see this, and repeat it into the closest valid Insteon signal code. Insteon has demonstrated that it really doesn't have any signal security, despite what has ever been proposed in white papers.

Yeah, I moved and downsized, but it saved me a bulk package of batteries every year and the hassle of changing some of them on ladders.

The ISY Portal can only use analogue values to be accepted as motion detectors and door/window detectors as binary values. However, several analogue point levels could be converted to binary values and perhaps used by Alexa from that driving a series of events/routines.

Sure. EISY can do all basic math and a few advanced math functions. and send the results almost anywhere. Much easier to program than an arduino unless you are familiar with the system.

I use many MagicHome WiFi RGBCW bulbs. When I changed routers (ASUS) , despite all he same SSID name, password and security protocol (WPA/WPA2), all the bulbs needed to be reconnected with the new router. IMHO, there has to be some other security detail that is never discussed inside the WiFi protocol. When I changed the router back (Netgear) later the same thing occurred. In short: maybe try factory resetting each bulb and reconnecting it to the new router.

Your logic and troubleshooting sounds good. Try using the reverse logic as such: And 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' Watering is Not On

If 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' is a program can it be 'off' status?. How long will the status of the door open sensor be 'On' and will it ever coincide with the following line?

Try turning your output powers to about 25% and check again. Some of these router's antennae cannot handle that much power without distorting the waveforms IMHO, and work much better with less power output. Alternatively, try turning down just the 5GHz strength and leave the 2.4GHz turned up.

It says it is for motors so it should work. For the MOV, it is a small flat lollipop shaped item that would require a space inside the motor or even a large size plug. I assume there are no terminal blocks involved in the wiring somewhere? For contacts it's the current that is critical for turning things on and running. It is the voltage that is critical not to arc across the contacts for turn things off. Motors are a biotch for both aspects. We dealt with a lot of DC devices so a 240 vac contact would suddenly be rated at 24vdc max. I watched a few contacts melt before my eyes while new engineers discovered this the hard way. High voltage DC contacts (yeah 120vdc was 'high') involved magnets to attract the arc into quenching cages and other magic. As @ELAposted above the Insteon specs have always been missing the full spec., hiding the motor/inductive capacity of their devices.

I use scenes and programs like this, Alexa...turn on xxxx lights Alexa...turn on dim lights Alexa... turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on TV lights (slowly dims and colour tunes bulbs before bed every 30 min.) Alexa...turn off xxx lights These all control programs that may operate scenes and/or WiFi bulbs together. Create scenes with useful levels, as needed, and work with them.

Typically, in industrial electronics, contact devices have two current ratings, one for resistive loads and one for inductive loads. Since you are controlling a motor, you have an inductive load and the rating of the contacts should have been stated as much lower. This is due to, as @Brian H posted above, when you break the current flow to an inductor/motor, it has an 'electrical inertia' that doesn't want the present current to change and results in an inductive voltage spike coming from the load. When the contact opens the current will tend to keep flowing and will arc across the contact until it extinguishes or the contact either melts together or melts itself clear. When replacing the device I would install some heavy duty MOVs across the motor windings, to absorb some of this counterEMF that the motor may produce. The common ones I have dealt with mostly were rated at 20,000 joules @ 220V. You must remember it has to withstand the peak of the 120v waveform. 130v x 1.414 = 183v

There is a file in the ISY that dictates the UUID number that acts up with some older ISYs. UDI had a fix for me. I can't remember how but one module needed to be updated or retimed.

The only thing I control with my Alexa speakers are ISY programs, and then they can operate, and do, whatever I want them to. All devices have the same vocal syntax ...Alexa, Turn On dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On very dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On bright lights ...Alexa Turn Off all lights ...Alexa, Turn On Christmas lights ...Alexa, Turn on TV lights ...Alexa, Turn On red lights No set or level commands ever used. It keeps it simple and easy to remember.

I didn't think the ecobee remote sensors send a battery voltage. My stats just report no response from a sensor when the battery gets too low. That indicates to me it's just a time out lack of response.

Either way you will likely have purchase the USB to microIDE adapter. I did this to upgrade my polisy and I can't believe how easy it was. The adapter was about $11 CAD and came in 2 days from Amazon without Prime. The hardest part was taking the screws out of the case and putting them back in again. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

The difference is "status" vs "control" verbage. "Switched" is a bit of an assumption by users now.

If your polisy BIOS is too old things may not update and brick the polisy. @Michel Kohanim gave me a link to a USB/micro -IDE programmer on amazon. I removed the SSD inside the polisy and ran the programmer with image he supplied and my polisy came right up. Then I updated to the latest version and I was back in business. IIRC the USB/microIDE programmer adapter was about $11 CAD. Contact UDI support, and open a ticket. They will help you through it pronto.

Remove the system and give a rebate. We have seen this before and it usually doesn't result in a happy ending.

No screenshots. Right click on the program title in the program tree and select "copy to clipboard" Then paste it into a code box in your post. '<>' All the details will be there and the format much clearer.

Just enter the admin console and click "upgrade" on the rightmost tab. Then open your java setup app under "Control Panel" in Windows, and delete all java files (three check boxes) Re-install Iox Finder https://isy.universal-devices.com/start.jnlp Execute the start.jnlp file it installs in your computer. It will install a further link with a nice UDI avatar in it. Move to your favourite launch position. When executed it should automatically find your polisy, or eISY. If not manually install your device URL into to and show it the way. Note:java will likely complain about installing a new version. Do it.

First time for this one.

I own two polisys and two ISY994s. The ISY994s won't do what I want without a RPi as a bridging unit to talk to my WiFi bulbs so I upgraded to a polisy. The polisy contains my own software and works quite well. I run v5.8.0 and AFAIK the polisy and Eisy are equivalent to each other, as far as firmware goes, for home automation things. If you have a polisy, I would stick with that for the next few years unless you see some clear reason to upgrade for some reason. If your ISY994 does the job, for the same logic, keep it working. Get a few more years out of it.

I have owned many routers over the years and not one ever had a separate area for static IP assignments. I use many static IP address but, they are always fixed within the routers LAN assigned area and made static by using the router's DHCP reservation table. I have experienced way too many IP address collisions over the years, and the results are not always obvious because your router is not aware of them. Collisions can plague your system for months before finding them with random unrelated devices acting strangely. It's your only option with ISY devices now.

Static IP addresses need to be assigned by your router's DHCP reservation table to avoid potential massive LAN problems. UD and followers got tired of newbies constantly messing up their LANs and it was eventually disabled in ISY boxes Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk