jtara92101

I've been swapping some devices (once again removing the "toxic" versions of KPL and SL that I had foolishly convinced myself were perfectly good...) and had some suspicion that the PLM links were corrupted or still linked to old devices, etc. Attempted to follow the procedure the restoring the PLM, but ran into a Catch-22 with RF-only devices. (Currently, only using two Mini Remotes, though I have others to add later.) The problem is, the instructions are apparently just plain wrong, as is the Wiki. It asks you to put ALL RF-only devices in programming mode. The problem is, that's not something that can be done. As soon as you put a second RF-only device in programming mode, it cancels programming mode for both devices. (They both stop blinking). An older post suggests using the Pro version (which I have) disable automatic writes to RF-only devices so that they will be queued, and turn turn on automatic writes (or click and write updates to individual devices). Problem with that is that it DOES NOT WORK. I do use this feature all the time, and does work for other operations (such as controllers and responders.) But it does not seem to work for PLM linking. There is a lot of activity (and confirmed in the event viewer) and then at the end it says that updating the PLM failed, because some devices could not be updated. (I will edit this later to give exact wording...) And there are NO 1010101s showing. So, there is nothing for me to update. What is the proper way to do this? And, please, once it is figured-out, can we please get the Wiki and the on-screen instructions corrected? Note that I am NOT replacing the PLM. Just want to make sure the links are refreshed. If necessary, I can treat it as a replacement, though. But it's my understanding that the first thing done when you restore modem is that it resets it. I did do a manual reset the last time I tried, though. (But I did not "remove modem". Here's the previous thread on the topic, which did not really give me a workable solution, as it suggests deferring write to the RF-only devices, which does not seem to happen for this operation. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15402-restoring-plm-with-multiple-battery-powered-devices/

FWIW.... Egads! Did the 4-gang not have a barrier in it? You aren't supposed to mix low-voltage and line-voltage in the same box! But there are special boxes that have an internal barrier, or add-on boxes that link to a main box to create a separate compartment for low-voltage. If you did NOT have a barrier, at least you have now corrected a code violation.

I had to look up what UDAjax is! For those unfamiliar with the term, it's the default web interface for the ISY. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Initial_Browser_Screen Apparently, it's based on a third-party project, ISYAjax. It looks like the author maintained it for a while, and then perhaps lost interest. If somebody knows a newer source, please post a link: https://sites.google.com/site/isyajax/ It seems out-of-date, but the ISYAjax site should give you some insight on customization. Since it is just a collection of web pages that uses Ajax to fill-in information from your ISY, you should be able to copy the pages and scripts to web pages in the Network Module - or even on some other device or computer (with a bit of modification) - and then customize-away. You'd have to write a bit of Javascript to interpret the 0 a 255 values as OPEN and CLOSED for display. Have to assume others have done this. Did you search the forum?

You get a 1 year or 2 year extension for free if you previously purchased the Network Module (which is now included as part of a Portal subscription) some time after 1-Oct-2014. The determination of 1 or 2 year depends on when you purchased your Network Module. If you purchased your Network Module after 4-Feb-2016, you can get a refund for your Network Module subscription. See the details here: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#ISY_Portal.2FAmazon_Echo.2FIFTTT Normal portal subscription is $49 for 2 years.

Oh, they have a good deal on 6-packs of the filament bulbs. If this is for a chandelier, rather than a Festivus Pole, they might do the trick! (Ceiling fan - close enough!) https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Filament-Dimmable-Candelabra-White/dp/B01N63GMKF/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1482132835&sr=8-53&keywords=kakanuo

Had to look-up what C7 is. A little late to the party, aren't you Gary? Or maybe it's all good if you're going to keep them up till July. More importantly, anybody have a good source for LED bubble lamps? OK, serious answer: the company that makes the LEDs I got for my microwave oven hood lamp puts the same LEDs in a number of different small-format bases and bulb shapes. Perhaps you will find what you want from them. My microwave oven bulbs are "intermediate base" (I think a bit larger than candelabra) and not the right shape for your Festivus Pole. But maybe they have what you want. I can't vouch for dimmability other than "they dim", since the microwave only has a high/low setting. It works with the high/low setting, and also does not have the flaw that some have where they light even when the lamp is switched off. (I guess microwaves somehow don't completely shut-off current to the bulbs, but it's not enough to make incandescents glow.) I just checked, and didn't find one, alas. They do have bulbs in E12 base (or candelabra, the base used for C7, right?) but the only ones with C7 shape are fancy (and expensive) filament types. The brand is Kakanuo. I'm quite pleased with them. I got them from Amazon. Perhaps there is a greater variety elsewhere. This is the lowest cost of the decorative C7 shape: https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Filament-Dimmable-Candelabra-White/dp/B01MRKREK4/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1482131653&sr=8-18&keywords=kakanuo+e12 And just in case somebody else wants to LED a microwave: https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Microwave-Dimmable-72X3014SMD-AC110-130V/dp/B01HV9HZVE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482131932&sr=8-4&keywords=kakanuo+microwave+bulb Finally, I was actually initially thinking of another source that packages the same LEDs in various small forms. But haven't tried yet. Still waiting for the LED bulbs I ordered from China for my old Lightolier wall-washers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191586144714?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=490662529953&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm skeptical of 9W in that tiny package, but crossing my fingers! Use the drop-downs on the eBay page above for different bases. The same company makes smaller wattages and form factors as well, so maybe they have what you are looking for. There are multiple sellers on eBay selling the same bulbs - they are all direct-ship from China though. But by the time you would get them, Festivus would be over.

Nest. Set and forget. Takes care of home/away better than anything else, if you use the Nest App. And I don't really feel much compulsion to "integrate" with ISY. I do plan on using ISY to set the Nest to Eco when a window is open, once I paint the *&^%! windows and install the Insteon open/close switches. I used to have the Venstar with the dongle. What a pain! Good riddance!

Honestly, a Wiki sounds more appropriate for this than the forums. And UDI already does have a Wiki! (I'm afraid it seems down right now, 500 server error...) While forums contain valuable information, they are more of the moment and dealing with specific individual problems and discussion of ideas than a living and always-current and unambiguous reference. I don't remember if the UDI Wiki is open to outside editing, or just edited internally. (And can't check right now since it is down!) Pretty sure, in fact, though, that the Wiki already has an integration section. Perhaps you could see if UDI is amenable to some outside help in gleening information on integration from the forums and incorporating them into the Wiki.

I haven't found Locative to be very useful. It wigs in and nearly every single day. (e.g. I am home, it decides i am not.) In any case... you need to either: - subscribe to the ISY portal - set up your router to do port-forwarding to your ISY. There are SEVERAL steps needed to do this, and has been adequately (and voluminously) covered in older posts - Set up a VPN between your phone and your home network You should NOT expose HTTP from your ISY to the Internet. It is NOT secure. Only use HTTPS or a VPN.

Since we are dealing with electrical circuits with potentially lethal consequences, we shouldn't guess at what was meant. Better we make sure it is absolutely clear, and perhaps the solution is delayed.

I don't know just what you mean when you say "use the dimmer switch to apply a level, then have the dimmer switch, keypad, and on/off switch apply this level the next time the light is on. If you mean that literally, the answer is no. When you adjust the brightness at a controller, that brightness is not "sticky". It just modifies the current level of the scene. If you want to be able to change the scene brightness from a controller, and have it be sticky, you would have to use a program. And decide what kind of tapping gymnastics you want to put the user through to do this.

What do you mean by "in the circuit"? You should not series-wire dimmer switches! If you have existing 3 or 4-way wiring, you should NOT make any use of the travelers. One Insteon dimmer should be connected to the load. The other controllers should only connect to hot and neutral - cap the load. It is most CONVENIENT to set-up your scene using ISY. Much more convenient than bouncing around the house tapping buttons! Set the on-level for each device within the scene. You then either have to duplicate the same settings within each controller, or - the easy way - check the "copy scene attributes" checkbox on the controller. You can increase or decrease the brightness of the scene from any of it's controllers.

1. You should ALWAYS shut off the breaker when doing ANY work on a circuit. You should never rely on only the switch. 2. You might also use a MicroDimmer module, if the load is less than 100W and you have trouble fitting the ILL. Since it is an LED, the load is almost certainly < 100W. 3. Consider a Mini Remote Wireless Switch as a companion. You can put it anywhere, as it is battery powered. You need to charge it via USB maybe twice a year. I use this and a MicroDimmer to control a closet light that was previously a globe with a pull chain. http://www.insteon.com/wireless-switch

I don't find it weird. You are fighting with the basic functionality of the switch. You tap the top, the load turns on. You tap the bottom, the load turns off. Consider it "hardwired". In hindsight, it would have been a slicker design if the switchlinc could be configured to divorce the paddle from the load. Perhaps it could be a controller/responder pair, where it is pre-configured to link the controller to the responder, but you might be able to reconfigure to break that link. (And I've LONG wondered why they've never produced paddles and keypads that don't have the circuitry for controlling the load...) But the Insteon design is the Insteon design, and you can't blame UDI. You might be able to play some games with ramp rate to make the light turning on briefly when you don't want it to less noticeable. You could re-configure the ramp rate in a program. But be warned that repeatedly re-configuring will eventually wear the flash memory. I do have some older devices where the flash memory is now kaput. (But it ought to be much better with newer devices, just because of advances in flash memory.) The sort of thing you are doing would more typically be done with a keypadlinc, preferably with one of the little buttons, not the on/off that control the load. If the flash bothers you, follow previous advice and use a micro dimmer. They are a great product! I use one in a closet that had a pull-cord lamp which I replaced with a flat LED panel. A micro dimmer in the ceiling box and a mini remote switch stuck to the wall got rid of the hazardous (and illegal, at least by current code) glass globe and stupid pull-cord without tearing into walls. I will be using more micro dimmers!

Alas, you are always going to have a problem when you mix LEDs with incandescent on the same dimmer, or even if you mix brands of LEDs. Or even wattages of LEDs or specific products of a given brand. Most people will find it disturbing when they turn off at different places on the dimming curve! Experiment until you find something that is "less disturbing". Otherwise, use a program as shown above.

Did you set it to use DHCP? If you set it to DHCP, the router subnet/address is IRRELEVANT. That's the whole point of DHCP. If you change your router in the future, it does not matter - just reboot or power-cycle, and it will get a new address from the new router. The DHCP "reservation" is not really even necessary. When you set-up a reservation, all it does is insure that the ISY will always get the same address from the router. You need to tell the router the MAC address of the ISY. It looks like you already did that. With a consistent address, then you can - if you wish - set up port forwarding on your router to allow access from the outside world. It is also handy if you have other internal equipment that will access the ISY and you need to use an IP address to do that. (For example, that's how I access ISY from Roomie Remote app on iOS.) Aside: I set DHCP reservations for all of my permanent equipment. Only guests and e.g. temporary equipment under test is allocated from the DHCP pool. I stopped setting manual static IP addresses years ago. If you don't set the ISY to DHCP, you've just introduced unnecessary complication. Then, the static mask/address/gateway you set will need to match the reservation address (which really then only acts to create a "hole" in the addressing for the ISY). Glad you got it to work!

Enter CT, then answer the prompts: 2.1.1. Requesting for DHCP Assigned IP Address Ø When prompted for IP Address, enter the 0.0.0.0 Ø When prompted for NetMask, ignore Ø When prompted for Gateway, ignore Ø When prompted for DNS Server, ignore When prompted with Save Changes, enter Y. The system will reboot and attempts to get DHCP assigned TCP/IP information upon system start.

If by "reserved an IP address on the router" you mean that you have made a DHCP reservation, then you do not need to/should not manually configure the IP address on the ISY. Set it to use DHCP to obtain an address from your router. You should be able to temporarily regain access by the normal (IP) means if you simply configure a secondary subnet/IP address on a desktop computer. i.e. set-up a secondary interface with subnet 192.168.0.0/255, and address of, say, 192.168.1.2. Once in, change the configuration to obtain the address via DHCP, and reboot the ISY. When done, you can remove the secondary subnet/IP from your desktop computer. Or, figure out the command-line needed to re-configure to use DHCP and do so over the serial interface.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/0-10_V_lighting_control Per the attached chart, 50% of light source output, would need 75% of control voltage (7.5V) but the 2475DA2 at 50% is gonna give you 2.4V. But light source output != perceived brightness, so IDK LOL...

WFM (= "works for me") straight out of the box. Looks like you monkeyed with the options - min volts/max volts/on level volts. Out of the box, the 4 boxes ARE checked, but the on levels are all set to 10.59 volts, and Min Volts/Max Volts all set to 0.00. You get 5 "virtual devices". Kind of like a keypadlinc. So, I have x.x.x.x Ballast Dimmer, and then 4 (groupable) "virtual devices". x.x.x.x Ballast 3-4 Closed x.x.x.x Ballast 3-4 Open x.x.x.x Ballast 2-4 Closed x.x.x.x Ballast 2-4 Open These refer to the pins on the RJ-10 modular jack. They are for connecting to local control switches. I gather, then, if you were to short, say, pins 3-4, then the "group 1" min volts/max volts/on level/ramp rate will be applied. If pings 3-4 are OPEN, then the "group 2" min volts/max volts/on level/ramp rate will be applied. I guess this would happen only on a transition? Dunno what gets applied at power-on?! Anyway, with the default settings, works ALMOST as I would expect, with an interesting twist. Set the main device "on" it goes to 10V. Set the main device "off" it goes to 0V. Set the main device to 50% - it goes to 2.36V = NOT 5V. 75% gets your apx. 5V. Some kind of modified inverse-square? a guesstimate as to how to "average" fluorescent 0-10V ballast (what this thing was originally designed for) would respond to the control voltage, such that 2.36V would give you half-brightness? Anybody recognize the curve? (I've rounded these) 10%: 0.5V 25%: 0..9V 33%: 1.25V 50%: 2.4V 66%: 3.8V 75%: 4.9V 90%: 7.25V

Did you trying disabling the "groups"? (dialog from your first post.) I don't have a ballast for it, but I'll dig it out, put a meter on the 0-10V and play with it a bit.

Gateway? Do you have to run something on an external computer? I use SimpleControl on iPhone/iPad. It don't need no stinkin' gateway!

Probably not. It's too complex for the Network Module. First thing you will have to get past is Pairing, which requires a two-way exchange. There's a GitHub project that has reverse-engineered the control protocol: https://github.com/jeanregisser/mediaremotetv-protocol Somebody has figured out a Hillbilly solution to avoid pairing - capture a uuid and then use it to mock your already-paired iPhone. There would probably be issues if you try to use the iPhone remote at the same time. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/35355807/has-anyone-reversed-engineered-the-protocol-used-by-apples-ios-remote-app-for-c I think a job for an external computer, Raspberry Pi, etc. Or specific ISY support. Better to just use IR.

The product can natively dim by itself, assuming by "the product" you mean the actual ballast. In normal use, it would be connected to a special low-voltage 0-10V dimmer switch that provides a reference voltage from 0-10V. The Insteon2475DA2 is meant to replace the special low-voltage 0-10V dimmer switch. Think of a 2475DA2 as similar to a mini or micro-dimmer. But instead of dimming a 120V line, it provides a 0-10V reference voltage to use as you please. "Ballast dimmer" is a bit of misnomer. It is a programmable source of a 0-10V reference voltage, plus 2 inputs, and 2 relays. For all it cares, you could connect it to a huge analog meter, and mark positions on the meter with "Yes", "No", "Cloudy", and "Ask Ms. Clio". It has no buttons. It does have two inputs that can connect to two buttons or contacts of your own, if you choose to do so. We went through all this a while back on some LED posts. One can purchase LED strip ballasts that are controlled by a 0-10V control signal. They can dim to 1% or better. There is an odd limitation on local control via the switch inputs. You can only program the levels to 32 steps. But apparently if you put in a scene or use a program you can get 256 steps. (Oddly states 256 states "with software").

What controls the ballast device is in the post title - Insteon 2475DA2. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2475da2-en.pdf I have one, haven't deployed it yet. I would suggest disabling all that "Group" stuff. That is for controlling the ballast from switches connected to the 2 inputs. Do you have switches connected to the 2 inputs? That setup allows you to set the on/off level for the switch inputs on pins 3-4. If you have not connected anything to the switch inputs, the only way you can control it is by adding to a scene. Then you can control the scene from the ISY console, or add a controller to the scene.